tims31
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| posted on 28/6/20 at 11:24 AM |
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Sierra drive shaft locking nut problem
Hi,
After three years on the road I have just realised that my drive shafts are fitted the wrong way round, the trouble is, I can not swap them as the
diff is offset and the shafts are different legnths.
These are Sierra drive shafts which were chopped down by Fury Sportscars and should be handed left and right as they have left and right hand threads.
So at the moment I have a left hand thread on the right hand(Offside) and right hand thread on the left hand side (nearside). This means they could
become undone and I'm luck it hasn't happened before.
I think the Left side one must have come undone slightly as I think the wheel bearing has become loose on this side and I am getting slight play on
the wheel but these bearings have only done 4500 miles. This leads me to believe the nut must have become slightly loose leading to premature wear.
I have been looking at option to get around the problem but seem to be getting knowwhere fast and could do with some help or suggestions to my
thoughts.
Option 1. should be to send the driveshafts back to Fury and have them handed correctly but I'm not sure how easy this would be after so many
years.
Option 2. I was looking at drilling the shaft and fitting a castellated nut and split pin, but the drive shafts are M22 fine thread and I can't
find any M22 fine Left hand nuts.
Option 3. I looked at half lock nuts but there is only about three threads protruding so not really sufficient to provide a good lock.
Option 4. Wire lock somehow but not sure where I can lock it to except one of the wheel nuts which isn't ideal.
Does anyone else have an idea of how to get around this?
 
Description
 
Description
[Edited on 28/6/20 by tims31]
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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gavin174
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| posted on 28/6/20 at 11:34 AM |
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I take it its push in drive shafts and not lobro?
I think you can buy new cv joint covers, if so take the cv off the driveshafts and swap them over...
http://www.essexkitcarclub.com
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tims31
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| posted on 28/6/20 at 11:41 AM |
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Ah, I hadn't thought of that. That would be the best solution and ensure they are the correct way round.
Yes sorry, push in shafts.
Guess I will have to search for the covers and see if they are still available.
Thanks
[Edited on 28/6/20 by tims31]
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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MikeR
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| posted on 28/6/20 at 12:21 PM |
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J&r driveshafts in Birmingham do replacement shafts for the sierra that are a pain. The cans are slightly bigger than Sierra at the diff end and
can't pull through the wheel end. I'm saying this as despite ford not doing them anymore, another vehicle is a close fit and you could
with hunting find something. I'd love to know the answer myself so please let me know what your find. I think I remember that they are vw
related.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 28/6/20 at 12:38 PM |
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Very careful removal of the can makes it possible to reuse it after changing the C.V joint, not ideal but they seem to be obsolete
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tims31
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| posted on 28/6/20 at 12:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
J&r driveshafts in Birmingham do replacement shafts for the sierra that are a pain. The cans are slightly bigger than Sierra at the diff end and
can't pull through the wheel end. I'm saying this as despite ford not doing them anymore, another vehicle is a close fit and you could
with hunting find something. I'd love to know the answer myself so please let me know what your find. I think I remember that they are vw
related.
Thanks for that Mike, my first call will be to Steve at Fury (if I can get an answer) as I believe he can still get the cans. An Internet search is
coming up blank at the moment.
If I find anything I will post up on here.
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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adithorp
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| posted on 28/6/20 at 02:13 PM |
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Swapping the joints is one option. As said you can open the swagging on the can and get them off. Not easy to get off or back but patience and
perseverance helps. I've got the ford part number for the CV cans. Ill look it up for you on Monday. They aren't listed in Fords system
anymore but are available if you know the number (or they were 3 years ago).
The other option is do nothing? Almost every other hub nut is r/h threaded on both sides and man have and they don't fall off even though many
only have a nylock like the Sierra as secondary locking. I've got 2 r/h joints on my Fury as my left one became worn and at short notice before
a trip I only had that to replace it. Lock nut has loc-tite on it and I've marked them (so I can see if they moved). One did come loose after a
rebuild but I think that was a failure on my part. Ive done a lot of miles since.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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tims31
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| posted on 28/6/20 at 02:55 PM |
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Thanks Adi, the number would be appreciated if you can get it. I would prefer to have them in the correct side so it doesn't raise questions at
MOT time.
Hoping that the bearing replacement will eliminate the loose wheel.
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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MikeR
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| posted on 28/6/20 at 06:58 PM |
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Hadn't thought of looking up the part number. I should have some of the official ford parts in a box in the garage. Hopefully had the number on
it.
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tims31
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| posted on 28/6/20 at 09:39 PM |
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Looking on the Super7thheaven website, it has the microfiche with the items and part numbers which is hopefully still valid.
I think the part we need is item 7 Type A and mine is pre 91.
www.super7thheaven.co.uk/components/sierra_rear_drive_shafts/
 
Description
 
Description
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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adithorp
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| posted on 28/6/20 at 10:05 PM |
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Ford Finis No 1058427
It'd be a very keen tester who checked thread direction on hub nuts... If it's even covered.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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tims31
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| posted on 28/6/20 at 10:11 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
Ford Finis No 1058427
It'd be a very keen tester who checked thread direction on hub nuts... If it's even covered.
Thanks for the Part Number. WHich shaft is this for as looking at the Fiche I have there are two different diameters 47 and 52mm
Unfortunately, I have no hub nut covers on mine as I can't find any to fit my wheels so mine are exposed and found someone keen  . I'm
hoping to persuade someone on here with a 3d printer to print me some 
[Edited on 28/6/20 by tims31]
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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steve m
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| posted on 28/6/20 at 11:46 PM |
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weld the nut on,
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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adithorp
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| posted on 29/6/20 at 06:42 AM |
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I'm not sure which size that is. Think it's the larger one as the smaller was 1.3 Sierra from memory and they were pretty rare.
MOT tester won't be looking at tread direction. They'll only check for secondary locking (where it's visable) which is the nylock.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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tims31
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| posted on 3/7/20 at 09:51 AM |
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Well I've spoken to STeve at Fury and he can't get hold of the cans anymore either but he wasn't too worried about the wrong handing
of the drive shafts either. I think my plan now is to drill the shaft end and nut and wirelock the nuts and then no worries about the nut undoing.
Just need to try and drill the end of the shaft now, cobalt drill 1.5mm...how many do you think I'll go through
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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djtom
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| posted on 3/7/20 at 11:34 AM |
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For some reason I appear to have 2 right handed thread shafts on my car. I haven't had any issues with them at all in the last 10 years and god
knows how many track days - the nuts are done up to some utterly daft figure (250ftlbs?) and are nyloked as well, so there is very very little chance
that anything would come undone.
I periodically check torque settings as part of pre-track preparation, neither side has ever slackened at all. If i were you, I'd torque them up
to spec and don't worry.
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jps
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| posted on 3/7/20 at 12:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by djtom utterly daft figure (250ftlbs?)
No need to overtighten - the Haynes manual suggests a 'mere' 207-221ft/lb... But yes, i've seen other threads where people report it
being hard to turn the wheel in the hub after it's initially torqued - and others saying that's as it should be!
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loggyboy
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| posted on 3/7/20 at 12:56 PM |
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Isnt there an argument thats this is to counter precession? Im sure its been discussed before that there are arguments for and against.
Mistral Motorsport
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tims31
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| posted on 3/7/20 at 01:47 PM |
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The Haynes manual states 185-214LBS/FT.
The reasoning I was doing this was it was commented upon by my MOT tester and just thought wirelocking would be the best and easiest method to kill
the suggestion that it may come undone as effectively the nuts undo in the direction of rotation.
Overtightening can cause issues when the bearings warm up if too tight and potentially fail early
[Edited on 3/7/20 by tims31]
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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tims31
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| posted on 5/7/20 at 01:49 PM |
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WHile replacing the wheel bearing I removed the drive shaft and drilled the end of the shaft so I could wirelock the nut. All sorted now and the
easiest solution to ensure the nut will not come undone.
 
Description
 
Description
[Edited on 5/7/20 by tims31]
Build: http://www.martinsfurybuild.co.uk/
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James
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| posted on 7/7/20 at 05:23 PM |
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I remember the trouble I had getting mine off.
Went to friendly local garage they had a windy gun that would do 500ft/lb and that wouldn't shift it. Eventually they called around and found a
tractor place that could do 750ft/lb. I bought the 42?mm impact socket with me and they were going at it a good long time before the nut let go!
lol
Oh those fun times of early in the car build!!!
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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