scuzzer
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 posted on 2/3/05 at 08:04 PM |
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Ford Ranger Donor
Hello all,
I am from the U.S. so bear with me for those across the pond. I just acquired a 1998 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder w/ manual tranny for $250. It makes 120
HP @ 5000 rpm and 146 ft-lbs @ 3000 rpm. I would like to start a locost within the next month or so, but I still have many questions.
My goal is to use as many parts from my donor as possible as per the everything-from-one-car Ron Champion method. Has anyone here used a Ranger as a
donor before?
My plan is to build either book chassis or McSorley 7+4. I think the 7+4 looks better IMO. Here are some of the stock dimensions of the truck:
Wheelbase- 125.70"
Track (Front)- 58.6"
Track (Rear)- 57.3"
Ground Clearance- 6.7"
Tire Diameter- 26.1"
Tire Size- 205-75-14
Anyoneone know the rear track of the book locost so I have something to compare it to?
All comments/questions/rants/criticisms welcome
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Jermyn
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| posted on 2/3/05 at 08:43 PM |
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I spent about 30 min looking for pictures of the suspension on the Internet. I was really looking for pictures of the stub axles/uprights. No luck.
Regardless, they should be easy enough to adapt.
Everything I've read, states that truck is 4-wheel independent suspension, which would be my choice.
If life is a race do you want to be the first one to finish?
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sgraber
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| posted on 2/3/05 at 11:04 PM |
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Justin, I am very happy that you have decided to join the list of builders. Best of luck with the project. You will still have issues with your build
even though it is a Locost Style and not a Middy because you are trying a basically unproven donor.
I did a little digging around on the Locost_North_America list and I found this:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Locost_North_America/message/20310
I think you should head over there to see if there is any more info. 
I can't help you with the rear track. But I would like to see photos of the front suspension and uprights. Is it rack and pinion steering? What
is the wheel bolt pattern and PCD? If you have to use different uprights you will probably want to match them.
Graber
[Edited on 3/2/05 by sgraber]
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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Dale
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| posted on 2/3/05 at 11:55 PM |
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As far as I know it should it should have a ford 7.5 rear which while not the strongest should handle any amount of torque a locost could come up
with- I am using one on my build- its a bit heavy but I can pick up the rear axle assembly and carry it around- for a short period.-- It may be a
locker (lsd) as well.
Dale
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locost_bryan
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 12:42 AM |
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Depends on whether it is the Mazda B2300 in drag (and which one) - certainly the current Ranger (Courier down-under) is a straight clone.
This has a double wishbone coil over front and cart spring live rear, with powered rack and pinion. The post 2001(?) has a detuned version of the
all-alloy 16-valve MZR/Duratec from the Mazda6 and a Mazda 5-speed (in US). Might also have an LSD?
US versions have 5-stud wheels.
Bryan Miller
Auckland NZ
Bruce McLaren - "Where's my F1 car?"
John Cooper - "In that rack of tubes, son"
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scuzzer
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 02:19 AM |
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sgraber:
Yes it is R&P steering. The bolt pattern is 5 by 114.3mm, which is not too popular for compact cars. Too bad its not 4x100mm as I would already
have the wheels. PCD? The uprights look a little big for a locost but I could definitely use them if I have to.
The front suspension is independent double A-arm with front steer. The back is live axle. Not sure if its LSD.
Hate to sound ignorant but is there a way I could use 4 lug suspension in the front and somehow convert the rear into 4 lug to match? I know that the
Honda Attack does something similar to this. This would be my best option if at all possible.
Thanks in advance.
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Dale
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 01:14 PM |
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In north america there are lots of wheels availible for the 5 bolt pattern ford hubs--its acutally a common upgrade from the 4 bolt axles.
Dale
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sgraber
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 04:20 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by scuzzer
sgraber:
Yes it is R&P steering. The bolt pattern is 5 by 114.3mm, which is not too popular for compact cars. Too bad its not 4x100mm as I would already
have the wheels. PCD? The uprights look a little big for a locost but I could definitely use them if I have to.
The front suspension is independent double A-arm with front steer. The back is live axle. Not sure if its LSD.
Hate to sound ignorant but is there a way I could use 4 lug suspension in the front and somehow convert the rear into 4 lug to match? I know that the
Honda Attack does something similar to this. This would be my best option if at all possible.
Thanks in advance.
But is it power steering RP? There are a lot of threads about converting power racks to manual. Some issues too. You will have to proceed with caution
and research.
I would think there a lots of cars that will have the correct bolt pattern that matches your hubs. You have a matching set on the car now. My
suggestion is to build the car up using the steel wheels from the truck for now and at the very end you can sell them and the other set you have and
buy a used set of rims and tires in the pattern you need. Patience my friend! LOL
Graber
PS- Sounds like the truck will be a good donor. Send me all the dimensions for the uprights and the steering rack and I will try to help you develop
the proper geometry.
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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Spottty
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| posted on 4/3/05 at 12:44 AM |
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I thought all rangers had that funky I beam suspension? Guess I was wrong.
I think the truck would be a great donor. THe Stalker uses a S10 and ti works well plus parts will be cheap.
As for rims, search ebay. just search for your bolt pattern and there should eb lots to choose from.
Best thing to do for a build....
Ditch the wife! 
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locost_bryan
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| posted on 4/3/05 at 01:35 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by scuzzer
The bolt pattern is 5 by 114.3mm, which is not too popular for compact cars.
PCD (pitch circle diameter) = 114.3mm / 4.5 inch
IIRC 5x114.3 is standard on most mid-size Jap cars over 2 litres - Toyota Camry, Honda Accord, Nissan Maxima, Mazda6
and 4x114.3 on mid-size Jap cars < 2 litres
and 4x100 on small Jap cars (Corolla, MX5)
Search previous posts - links have been posted for sites that have all the pcd's for most cars 
Bryan Miller
Auckland NZ
Bruce McLaren - "Where's my F1 car?"
John Cooper - "In that rack of tubes, son"
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scuzzer
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| posted on 5/3/05 at 06:55 AM |
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I have been looking over the Ranger front hubs and I think they just won't do. They look too bulky and heavy. I just got an offer for a free
Geo Metro (AKA Suzuki Swift) front suspension for free. This solves the issue of converting power steering to manual. It's also much lighter
and much more suitable for a locost. I believe it is rear steer. Thing is, it creates other problems like now I have a 4 lug pattern front
suspension and 5 lug rear axle. Custom axles or some machine work could fix this problem though. I already have a good set of 4 lug wheels that fit
the metro suspension. Another problem is that the metro track is about 4" different compared to the Ranger rear track (53.7" for the
metro and 57.3" for the Ranger). I was thinking I could always use lengthened tie rods if need be.
Even better yet, I could replace the rear axle with a Miata axle (LSD?) thats got 4 lug bolt pattern and a slightly narrower track to better match the
metro's
I am trying to solve all the issues I can now before I start building. Anyone know of a way to adhere better to the KISS principle?
[Edited on 7/3/05 by scuzzer]
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andkilde
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| posted on 7/3/05 at 01:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by scuzzer
Another problem is that the metro track is about 4" different compared to the Ranger rear track (53.7" for the metro and 57.3" for
the Ranger). I was thinking I could always use lengthened tie rods if need be.
Hi Scuzzer
The front track isn't of huge concern as it's pretty much set by your frame and wishbone design (McSorley in this case). The length of the
rack from inner tie rod pivot to inner tie rod pivot is an important dimension -- ideally, you'd want it to be equal to the distance between the
inner suspension pivots to eliminate bump steer but even if it's not you can usually move the rack up or down to compensate.
Rear track, as you've surmised is something you'll need to work around. You can change it by throwing money at it (making new halfshafts
for an IRS setup, or getting a shop to narrow a live axle) or live with what you've got and adjust with wheel offsets.
You can also widen (or narrow) your front track by redesigning the front a-arms and extending the track rods.
Is the Swift a Mac strut car? or double a-arm? If Macpherson strut you'll need to make up some adaptors for the top balljoints -- do a quick
search for "mushroom" and you'll get an idea about how they commonly adapt the Sierra (Merkur) hubs in England.
Also since the Swift is a front driver it doesn't have a proper stub axle -- no big deal as you should be able to "gut" the outer CV
joints.
Cheers, Ted
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sgraber
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| posted on 7/3/05 at 02:38 PM |
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Scuzzer, I want to see some photos of those Swift front uprights when you get a chance. Also their weight. I am thinking they would be a good front
end donor fo my La bala project.
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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