aerosam
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| posted on 16/4/08 at 06:12 AM |
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Tamper proof bolts
I was trying to hoik the engine out of my beemer last night, but was stopped by 2 of the tamper proof (torx) bolts holding the gerabox on to the
engine.
Some butcher has been in there before me and used a spanner or something on them and rounded the splines off them. I don't have enough room to
get a grinder in there to cut the heads off, or weld a bolt head on either. Any ideas how to get them out.
If I can't get them out then I'm goin to have to put a few back in and cut the front slam panel off to make room to slide the engine and
gearbox out together. (not the end of the world but a heck of a lot more work.)
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ReMan
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| posted on 16/4/08 at 06:47 AM |
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Is ther room to get in and drill the heads?
Either to drill them off completely or to drill a hole for an easy out stud remover.
How about a dremel grinder, would that get in?
Gas torch?
Mole grips?
Hammer and chisel?
No it was'nt my car before 
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02GF74
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| posted on 16/4/08 at 06:51 AM |
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 blimey you need to get up pretty early to post before ReMan
Plan 2 by the sound of it.
The likely reason the bolts are mullered is that they were v. hard to undo so you'll probably face the same problem.
But what you could try is to use a dremel with disc to cut a slot for a screw driver then use impact screwdriver if you can get enough room.
Grinding off the held, again with dremel is possible but v. time consuming and cost a fair bob in grinding discs.
Can you get on open ended saw to take the bolt head off, finishing with the above mentioned dremel grinder?
You could try those screwdriver bits for kneckered heads or those sockets for rounded bolt heads - I would not expect them to work.
You probably should heat the ear up as much as possible as that can sometimes help to release the bolt and lots of penetrating oil - not WD40 but the
proper stuff.
[Edited on 16/4/08 by 02GF74]
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ReMan
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| posted on 16/4/08 at 06:56 AM |
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I is just eatin me cornflakes!!
"The likely reason the bolts are mullered is that they were v. hard to undo so you'll probably face the same problem.
"
That what I reckon too 
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Howlor
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| posted on 16/4/08 at 07:58 AM |
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Those Urwin bolt undoers do work as mentioned above but quite expensive to try if the bolts are locked solid.
Steve
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aerosam
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| posted on 16/4/08 at 08:20 AM |
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not locked solid but accessibilty is an issue. Only just enough clearance between the back of the engine and the bulkhead to fit in a socket on a
breaker bar.
Not enough room to drill/grind whatever.
I think i'll have to chop the front of the car off.
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bonzoronnie
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| posted on 16/4/08 at 08:39 AM |
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Just a sugestion. Why not take the engine & box out as one lump ?
Plenty of room to do so. 3 series BMW ?
I have only last week changed a 318i lump. Yes those bolts were a barsteward. 
Ronnie 
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aerosam
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| posted on 16/4/08 at 09:10 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by aerosam
If I can't get them out then I'm goin to have to put a few back in and cut the front slam panel off to make room to slide the engine and
gearbox out together. (not the end of the world but a heck of a lot more work.)
It's a 530i V8 - there's not enough room to take them out together, hence I'd have to chop it up to make room.
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Howlor
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| posted on 16/4/08 at 10:04 AM |
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Will it go down rather than out through the top if you were to jack the body up high?
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Guinness
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| posted on 16/4/08 at 10:48 AM |
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It's your donor vehicle isn't it?
Just get the big grinder out to the bodyshell and make some space above and behind the bolts.
Unless you wanted to sell the shell when you are finished?
Mike
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aerosam
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| posted on 16/4/08 at 11:15 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Howlor
Will it go down rather than out through the top if you were to jack the body up high?
Considering this, but that will mean removing ALL of the front suspension/steering assembly at the same time, and leaves me a car with no front wheels
stuck in my garage.
And yes, as it is my donor vehicle I'm not bothered about cutting big holes in the body if necessary, although any removable panels like the
front wings and bonnet would be useful to sell on to generate more funds for the build.
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Schrodinger
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| posted on 16/4/08 at 01:20 PM |
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Don't know if this will be of any use but I've just been into Halfwits to get some bike cleaning gear and noticed that along with the
usual penetrating fluids they do one called shockrelease or something like that and it says on the tin that it uses thermal shock to help release the
bolts, presumeably freezes as well as penetrating fluid, I would normally use Plusgas rather than wd40 and as I said I've only just seen it so
no idea if it works
Keith
Aviemore
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 16/4/08 at 01:31 PM |
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Or try a cam type bolt/stud extractor that fits on a ratchet. Cheaper than a set of Irwins.
I have one somewhere. If I can find it today, I'll let you know and you can borrow it.
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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aerosam
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| posted on 17/4/08 at 05:57 AM |
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Here's a pic to illustare how limited for space I am.
 
Rescued attachment boltheadloc.JPG
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