Well,
The steel came and I was finally able to work on the car a little bit, didn't get too far, but at least it has a floor . I just put down
the side bars for the whole length of the car for reference, then, when I finish building the front and rear subframes/ suspensions, I will weld them
in together and ensure they are aligned, then cut out the necessary part of the side rail for the wheel well.
Photos of the progress under the tent:
this one was just an old sparco I had lying around placed in there for reference, as the seat is actually going to be 1" higher.
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/kentf/June%202,%202004%20001.jpg
All the holes filled up:
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/kentf/June%204,%202004%20003.jpg
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/kentf/June%206,%202004%20001.jpg
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/kentf/June%206,%202004%20002.jpg
....well, thats all for now, I'm off to harbor freight tomorrow for more cutting discs.
-Kent
[Edited on 7/6/04 by turbo time]
You need to make your pictures a lot smaller. Either compress them, trim them, or better yet, set your camera to 800x600...
There is a very neat easy to use shareware program for image resizing at DPS imaginatively called imagesizer. Free 30 day trial but even I learned to use it in about 30 seconds.
Good start...I'll watching closely...
Nice welding. Who's design is it? And yes, smaller piccies would be great thanks!
Did you have the frame clamped into a jig to weld the bottom panel on? I am just curious if you experienced any warping of the frame by welding the
floor on before finishing the triangulating bracing.
Steve
Well, I guess the car is my design.....I mean, it's based on a number of cars. I was loosely inspired by the old can-am racers, also the can-am
based kit manta mirage and the montage, the ultima GTR, modern day LMP cars etc... I doubt I'll have anywhere near their performance of course,
and mine is gonna have a full steel body, but it'll be fun anyways.
About the warpage, the frame was pretty well braced when the floor went in, and measurements showed no distortion, since then I only added 4 braces to
the "backbone" portion, the tubing for the roll cage front struts (the support for the sides of the pass. compartment) really needs no help,
as the wall thickness is over 1/8" :O , yep, it should be NHRA approved to 9 seconds, hell, I'm only going to be scratching at low 11's
- high 10's I believe (not like I'm a big drag racing fan, but I still dont think there is a better bargain for tuning a car than a test and
tune day at the 1/4 for $20).
Anyhow, hope I can find some more time to work on it, should have more updates soon.
P.S. I'm looking for polyurethane A-arm bushes, but the only place I can seem to find in the U.S. in champion motorcars, they have exactly what I
want (36 bushing halves with the steel sleeves, but they want $100, far more than I'd like to spend) Any suggestions? I see that places in the
U.K. like lolocost and GTStuning have them, but the shipping costs kill that idea. Of course if I owned and knew how to work a lathe, I could just buy
a stick and make my own, but oh well.
[Edited on 10/6/04 by turbo time]
Try to contact different poly companies, energy suspension, prothane. I got mine from energy suspension for the cost of a 12 pack of beer, but the problem I'm running into now is that I cant find suitable tubing to fit over them so I still might not use them.
TT....I would have thought that GTS parts plus shipping would have been fairly reasonable.....
I made my own, but would definitely buy next time if not too expensive....
quote:
Originally posted by turbo timeP.S. I'm looking for polyurethane A-arm bushes, but the only place I can seem to find in the U.S. in champion motorcars, they have exactly what I want (36 bushing halves with the steel sleeves, but they want $100, far more than I'd like to spend) Any suggestions? I see that places in the U.K. like lolocost and GTStuning have them, but the shipping costs kill that idea. Of course if I owned and knew how to work a lathe, I could just buy a stick and make my own, but oh well.