Came up with this in my sleep, when thinking about how to do up some strut adaptors and made a quick (awful) sketch, of course you'd need some rod ends w/high enough thrust load ratings...but what do you think, good idea, bad idea?

Might work for the rear, but you'll need a really flexible bolt if you want to use it on the front

My biggest concern on the rear is it might be tough to get a fine enough adjustment for rear tracking with the two pivots so close together.

Cheers. Ted

Oh yeah, thanks Ted....forgot to mention, this will be the rear end only, I.E. a zero degree castor situation.

BTW: here's the hub I'm using:

So, I was going to use the original tie rod with a tie rod end on both sides for the toe adjustment, pretty much like this one:


Thats all for now.

[Edited on 30/7/04 by turbo time]

I agree with the above, with them so close together, a half turn on each is going to make an enormous difference when adjusting toe. If they're 28 threads/inch and you turn each one 1/2 to adjust toe, the total differential movement will be about 0.036" That's over a span of roughly what, an inch. So arc Tan(0.036) = 2 degree... your minimum adjustment is too large.

Unless we misunderstand what you're doing. Is this only a replacement for the top pivot, and that you will have a separate toe control link? If so, this approach won't work at all. And if it is for toe control, there'll be enormous force on the ball joints. I'd try something else...

What uprights are those from anyway?

Also, in the picture above of the blue suspension, the in-board toe mount should really be in double sheer. As it is now, cornering forces will twist that inner square tube... giving variable toe depending on cornering force.

Looking at your upright, it strikes me that a couple of plates, with three holes in each, would allow you to use a single rose joint in double shear. It would move your mounting point up an inch or so but should be OK.

Cheers, Ted



[Edited on 30/7/04 by andkilde]

That's a very good idea, cheap, simple, light.

Second thoughts make me think the plates should be U-Section or have an L welded across the top so they can't flex.

Cheers, Ted

Thanks, I was just throwing the idea out there to see if it was even something that belongs on a car. That's a much better solution. Quite simple to fabricate as well, brilliant!

Oh, BTW, the uprights are off a 1G DSM turbo.

-Thanks

it IS a great idea. I may try that on my next build.