My laser cut caliper brackets came in so I could assemble the front brakes.
That's all looking rather blimin' nice is you don't mind me saying...
Very nice 
How do you progress so quickly? Do you not work for a living 
Nice 
Hopefully one of these days someone will start manafacturing laser-cutting machines for the home market. After all a 2D version is only a plotter with
a wacking grate laser attached to it instead of a pen!!!
Fandango...thanks
Speedy...yes I do work, sadly, but most of my recent work has been in my shop so it's easy to sneak the odd hour in..
Ben...yep, pretty much..plasma machines are readily available (I have one) but the laser part is pretty expensive.
Chris.....nope not going 4WD, but could if I wanted. The hub is completely self-contained and does not rely on the CV bolted through to hold it
together, therefore it can be used as a non-driven hub in this application meaning I can use the same one all round.
[Edited on 22/5/08 by Alan B]
coming togethor very nicely Alan. looking forward to the day it turns a wheel
Oh I can turn the wheels now Paul....
But, yeah, I know what you mean..
Looking so great Alan!
WRT to the GM hub. I have a bit of news for you. recently I was playing around with that same hub and trying to press a piece of 1" x .085 wall
DOM through it. It's a very close fit and I thought it would just go through, but as I was persuading the tube to mate with the splines, the
entire hub came apart! Pressed right out in deed. So I don't understand your statement about not needing the cv bolted on it. It definitely needs
something to hold it together.
My plan was to use that piece of tube with a machined groove and a circlip on each side. Would be very light.
quote:
Originally posted by sgraber
Looking so great Alan!
WRT to the GM hub. I have a bit of news for you. recently I was playing around with that same hub and trying to press a piece of 1" x .085 wall DOM through it. It's a very close fit and I thought it would just go through, but as I was persuading the tube to mate with the splines, the entire hub came apart! Pressed right out in deed. So I don't understand your statement about not needing the cv bolted on it. It definitely needs something to hold it together.
My plan was to use that piece of tube with a machined groove and a circlip on each side. Would be very light.
Further to my previous post.
I'm convinced that if the CV does effectively clamp two parts together then a CV substitute is required, and as Steve says should be simple to
do.
However if it is only one piece (and to be honest I'm leaning away from this) then I don't see what the CV can do to hold it together.
More later........
Steve is right....I am wrong.......as I said peviously I never doubted Steve's observations.
The hub unit DOES need a CV dummy or equivalent to hold it together.
I actually have two different hub brands of slightly different design. One is definitely in two pieces (referring to internal rotating parts) the
other clamps to the bearing directly so effectively is in two parts also.
So.......I know today's project..
Again, thanks Steve for finding this out.
Hey! This is exactly what this forum is for!
I thought too that the hub would be fine without a center bolt, but then noticed a hairline split inside the splined area. Then when I started to tap
that 1" od tube through the center and it started to come apart I knew that it would need to be clamped somehow together.
What do you think of my tube/circlip idea? The tube is so close to fitting btw. just a bit of emery cloth on a lathe might make it go through.
Steve, the circlip idea would hold it together, but would not stop it loosening up in the first place....that's why I'm working on a
clamping sleeve.
I should have an idea to post very soon.
Alan
This is what i'm going to do...
It's basically a flanged sleeve and thick washer held together with a 3/4-16 cap screw
quote:
Originally posted by Alan B
This is what i'm going to do...
It's basically a flanged sleeve and thick washer held together with a 3/4-16 cap screw
Could do that except I haven't got old CVs and just have made the part since last posting...
The sleeve and bolt only weigh a few ounces, although putting a 1/2" hole through the bolt would be easy enough.
That's not far off what they do in the MGF, to hold the front together. Also used many years previous by Frogeye Cars here on the island, to use
Metro hubs on the front. They just machined the CV female section off, leaving the flat disc.
A very nice option Alan, and keeps things a bit simpler and lighter.
Cheers,
Syd.
These are the parts that allow the hub to be used without a CV....
Seems to work quite well, and not too heavy.
that dog's got some big-uns!
Very nice I mean.
Will you be making a run of these? I am interested.
S.
[Edited on 6/11/08 by sgraber]
Steve,
Thanks,
How many do you want?....if we can order enough sets I should be able to get a good price.
Alan
I will contact you via email as soon as I am out of bed and back at the desktop PC. I do have some other things I need to purchase from you.
Tuppence worth:
We used the splined rear hub from the E36 3-series all round on the LMP. The front hub clamping issue was obvious from the outset and we initially
devised something similar to Alan's solution.
It didn't work. The splines in the hub are - correct me if I'm wrong - case hardened, which means they're going to be harder than
anything else you put against them (unless that too has been treated in the same way). This means they will soon eat into any shaft that isn't
splined because it is only engaging with the 'teeth' of the hub and movement will soon result, with failure not long after that.
When you consider the lateral and vertical forces trying to pull the shaft out, you'll soon understand why this happens.
So, we reverted to machined CV ends (which can be sourced at a reasonable price). They were cut on a lathe exactly as Syd describes, with a flat on
the inside, and drilled about 3/4 of the way through to reduce weight.
Never had any trouble after that.
So before you go into production and start selling bits, Alan, I'd see how those bits perform under proper test conditions...
I worry about you lot.
Sometimes. 
[Edited on 18/6/08 by tadltd]
Concern and observations duly noted.
I will make sure that they are thoroughly inspected afer hard testing.
Thanks for the heads up.
Alan
Hi Alan,
Aren't there front hubs you can get that don't need the mod?
I'm using C5 Corvette stuff all round & they have this type of hub on all 4 corners, so obviously its just a straight bolt on job. Pontiac
Solstice perhaps? (A complete wild guess).
I doubt the C5 parts would work directly for you though as they've an odd offset and bolt centers ( 4.75" ) and not 120mm which is a pain in
the bum.
[Edited on 19/6/08 by Doug68]
Hi Doug,
Yes there are specific non-driven hubs that exist in the correct PCD and bolt size and number (in fact they are the corresponding rear hubs, in this
originally FWD application) so I do have those to fall back on even though some mods would be needed..I guess it's case of what works safely for
the least hassle and money....I'm pretty confident I can make work what I've done so far.
Cheers,
Alan
quote:
Originally posted by Doug68
Hi Alan,
Aren't there front hubs you can get that don't need the mod?
I'm using C5 Corvette stuff all round & they have this type of hub on all 4 corners, so obviously its just a straight bolt on job. Pontiac Solstice perhaps? (A complete wild guess).
I doubt the C5 parts would work directly for you though as they've an odd offset and bolt centers ( 4.75" ) and not 120mm which is a pain in the bum.
[Edited on 19/6/08 by Doug68]
That's good then, so even if the hubs turn out not to be appropriate it won't waste the work you've done to date with the uprights.
quote:
Originally posted by Doug68
That's good then, so even if the hubs turn out not to be appropriate it won't waste the work you've done to date with the uprights.