so a well respected race team found out after a season of destroying gearboxes,twas me that spotted the mistake,the resident gearbox expert wasnt impressed
Is it better to use the gearbox diff manufacturers recommended oil or upgrade to a fully synthetic oil when changing the oil.
no
i put semi in my motorbike and nearly distroyed the engine.
be very cairfull with synthetic oil its not for most bike cars ect.
i use zx1 now and std oil..
beware, just becuase it is fully synthetic doesn't automatically mean it is good.
there are stories of using these type of oils in land rover gearboxes that then damaged them due to not being compatible with the bronze bushes or
something like that; I didn't take notice as I use the standard oils in my 'boxes/engines/diffs (apart from part-synth in the volvo engine).
I use Mobil 1 fully synthetic oils for x-flow engine, escort sport gearbox and english diff - no problems and would fully recommend it
Use the manuf recommended oil for transmissions. The syncronizers (or wet clutches) are designed to work with a specific fluid. They can slip too much/little with the wrong fluid.
Use the manuf recommended oil for transmissions. The syncronizers (or wet clutches) are designed to work with a specific fluid. They can slip too
much/little with the wrong fluid.
so a well respected race team found out after a season of destroying gearboxes,twas me that spotted the mistake,the resident gearbox expert wasnt
impressed
Do not use synthetic with new parts, especially differentials, run 500 miles then you can switch.
Synthetic is too slippery and parts will not wear in.
I used nothing but multi viscosity synthetics in my Datsun racecar in the 70's, no problems with engine, trans, or diff, and some of that was
experimental from Valvoline (sponsor).
If it's a bronze baulk-ring synchro type thing, don't use modern synthetic GL5 with friction modifiers. Some of the EP additives
(organosulphates/phosphates)in gear oil will also eat the bronze away.
If it's a plate-type diff, or somesuch, again, don't use oils with friction modifiers (unless you want slip).
If it's a good old fashioned dog box, use just about EP GL4/5 anything. Moly-disulphide additives can even be used here, there's nothing to
rot in a dog box.
Manufacturers recommendations at all times, period.
Any tinkering, just use common sense... I run a superlight (very) multigrade fully synthetic in the ATB diff of my hairdrier powered competition car.
Not what I'd use in a car engined 7 on the road. I use a dirty great EP90 GL5, stinking of sulphur, in the diff of the Landrover 109 towing heap.
Two issues
(1) As already mention with geaboxes avoid GL5 oils they have too much EP additive. GL4 or what ever the manufacturer recommended for gearbox --
Note some manufacturers recommend engine oil (Chrysler UK) or auto box fluid (ZF boxes) or special tranmission fluid (eg Rover & LandRover)
(2) Classic era oils seals can have problems with fully synthetic oils ---- if in doubt always use either a mineral oil or a semi-synthetic.
To sum up
Older car models sometimes don't like fully synthetic oils -- as it can cause oil leaks due the oil seals shrinking and hardening But
semi-sythetics are generally OK because the mineral oil content is enough to stop the oil seals going hard.
Don't use GL5 gear oils in gearboxes -- use GL4 unless something else is specified.
Use GL5 oils in hypoid axles
If your car has a friction LSD (nb not the Sierra Viscous type) then use an oil with friction "LS" additive.
Multi grade grear oils are generally a good idea especially in gearboxes.
if you use the recommended oils, you minimise the risk of nasty surprises
quote:
Originally posted by thunderace
no
i put semi in my motorbike and nearly distroyed the engine.
be very cairfull with synthetic oil its not for most bike cars ect.
i use zx1 now and std oil..