sgraber
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| posted on 3/3/04 at 06:45 PM |
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Rust Bullet RULES
In preparation for a very special guest this next weekend (the pope - not!  ), I have been working hard to get the frame and other ancilliaries
painted. (gotta cover up those nasty welds woudn't you know! ).
Anyways, the product I chose isn't really paint, per-se, it's a "coating" hehe. And it really turned out nice. Much better
than I anticipated. A smooth silver/metallic surface that feels and looks just like powdercoating. And just as tough, from what I am finding out. Even
1 day after application, this stuff is absolutely hard as nails!
I am still recovering from the mistake of not wearing a proper respirator the first hour. My nose is still coated on the inside with the stuff and I
have a slight cough from inhaling the stuff. But I don't think the damage is permanent... cough, cough. Wear a RESPIRATOR! 
If you are thinking about using POR15, you should really look into this product as a superior alternative.
http://www.rustbullet.com/Comparison/ProdComp.htm
Steve
I used 1/2 gallon to do 3 coats on all my frame items and rollbar.
[Edited on 3/3/04 by sgraber]
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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kb58
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| posted on 3/3/04 at 07:08 PM |
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Humm, I've been considering alternatives to powercoating. Did it leave brush marks though, going by your cough I guessing you sprayed it on.
How did you prepare the surface? Powdercoaters like to sandblast but I worry about it getting in my numerous rivet holes. A really hard surface
isn't really ideal if it becomes brittle. If you have a test piece, once it's really hard, smack it with a hammer. Does it chip?
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sgraber
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| posted on 3/3/04 at 07:17 PM |
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I haven't specifically whacked anything that's been painted with it --- yet. Let me get frustrated and I'll get back with you.
I would suggest you check out their website. It has all kinds of good info. http://www.rustbullet.com
Graber
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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kb58
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| posted on 3/3/04 at 09:24 PM |
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Just wondering, why not just powdercoat instead?
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sgraber
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| posted on 3/3/04 at 09:37 PM |
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I can do it on my own time. I control the quality of the job.
Aside from creating a plastic sheeting paint booth in my garage, there was virtually no prep work involved. I degreased the frame with Simple Green,
left all the rust on it, rolled it into the garage and blew some paint on it. 3 coats to be exact.
The cost of the gallon of paint was $100. Other materials, $40. So I just got all of my parts coated for $140. I think that it's a good price.
And I still have 1/2 gallon left over. I'm looking for other things to paint right now!
Graber
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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kb58
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| posted on 8/3/04 at 11:19 PM |
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Okay, here's a big question.
How the devil did you make sure you painted all sides of all the tubes?! THAT is the number 1 reason for powdercoating, that it tends to go around
the backside of tubes. I've painted simple tube structures before and sure enough I seem to *always* miss at least one side of a tube.
So how did you manuver the paint gun in and around every tube to reach full coverage?
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sgraber
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| posted on 8/3/04 at 11:29 PM |
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Kurt, it was a royal PITA. A lot of contortionistic and bizzare ritualistic movements that are totally unnatural. <ouch> 
I gunned the top side first. After 2 hours it is hard as nails. I rolled it over on one side, got the back sides of the top edge. 2 hours later rolled
over on its back (shiny side down) and painted again. Finally over again to the other side. Another coat.
Next day I did it all over again.
I have been over the chassis with a fine toothed comb and am sure that I got all the tubes.
Of course powder coating is a fine way of finishing off a chassis. But it sits at the top of the scale in terms of expense. That may or may not be an
issue for you.
In my case I am looking for the absolute least expensive way that doesn't compromise the standards (however low those may be) that I have set
for final quality. If that means a lot of difficult work for myself, then so be it. I prefer that to spending the money. But that's just me.
I'm a masochist I guess.
Steve
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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kb58
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| posted on 9/3/04 at 12:01 AM |
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I checked out your site... great job getting it all back together so quickly! It will take me months...
Since I see you decided to use rivets, where are the holes drilled? Are they directly in the tubes are did you weld strips on? I ask because several
people have asked me, "don't you worry about drilling holes in structural tubing?" Well, yes, but a mechanical/structural engineer
I respect said don't worry about it. So what's my question... I guess I'm asking how you rationalized putting the holes directly in
the tubes.
[Edited on 9/3/04 by kb58]
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sgraber
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| posted on 9/3/04 at 02:19 AM |
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Well, have you seen my frame lately?That thing is seriously strong. (overbuilt) I don't think that a few dozen holes will make even the
slightest difference.
The holes are in the tubes.
But seriously, You may be drilling a hole for each rivet, but you are filling that hole back up with a solid mass (the rivet) AND you are
significantly increasing the stiffness/strength of your chassis with the addition of the paneling.
You can argue either side I suppose, but in the end, you're best bet is to follow common sense, copy what people have had success with before
you, and just do it!
Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/
"Quickness through lightness"
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rontyler
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| posted on 9/3/04 at 05:25 AM |
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KB,
In my experience, the brunt of the strength comes from the corners... drilling holes in the middle of a square tube should be negligible at
most. And, I agree with Steve... his frame is "overbuilt" (as well as mine).
Regards, Ron Tyler
"Nothing is ever accomplished by a reasonable man."
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Terrapin_racing
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| posted on 9/3/04 at 03:33 PM |
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I had my chassis and suspension blast cleaned , etch primed and powder coated for about £200 here in UK
Great for a spaceframe, but I'm struggling to find a UK supplier of Rust Bullet for my daughters Mini bodyshell (ready for welding / painting)
Powder coaters won't do car shells
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kb58
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| posted on 9/3/04 at 03:42 PM |
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I always wondered that, why, technically, you couldn't have an entire car powdercoated.
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Terrapin_racing
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| posted on 10/3/04 at 12:14 PM |
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Distortion apparently - my powder coater said it was a major issue?
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