orton1966
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| posted on 17/1/10 at 08:50 PM |
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I’m finally ready to start my build.
Over the last few month I’ve been compiling parts and looking for ideas. Whilst in truth I have two projects in mind, an Exo-Skeleton BEC and a
full-on wings and slicks racer powered by a tuned zx12r engine, it is the exo car that will come first. Whilst a project in it’s own right it is also
meant as a learning experience for the latter build.
Before I go any further I would like to thank two other builders whose build logs have provided ideas and inspiration for my projects, There have been
many others whose posts have been inspirational but these two stand out from the crowd, they are; Cloudy with his Warner R4 build and from the US site
Airframefixer with his BEC LMP build. Both have builds that are well worth a look, thanks again.
Now to my build, here is the ruff spec:
Style – Exo-Skeleton, Atom and R4 inspired
Wheelbase/Track – Approx 89” by 56”
Engine – FZR1000/Thunderace
Uprights/Driveshafts/Steering Rack – MX5
Wheels – 15” by 7”
Target weight – 450kg
I have most of the parts that I need to start plus; A tube-roller from harbour freight, A tube bender from pro-tools, a pile of CDS tube in
2”&1.5” dia’s and a decent mig welder.
First job has been to make the build table. After much deliberation I went for a steel frame with a MDF top the full 3m long so I don’t need to move
the chassis to do the ends. Spec is 100mm square section legs screwed with brackets to the floor, then I made a rectangle frame from 50mm sq section
with cross pieces then diagonals across each of the three squares this creates.
Then I positioned this over the legs using shims on the top of each leg to ensure it was level in all directions, once everything was right I
tack-welded short metal straps between this frame and the legs, with the shims removed this gives a kind of floating top over the stout legs.
Next the first 20mm layer of MDF was attached to this with an industrial adhesive, then a second layer added with PVA. So I now have a very solid 40mm
top, flat in all directions, supported on a steel frame that should support your average tank, although the only test so far has been a Kart I have
for sale (if interested please look in the for sale section) and me.
Anyone have any thoughts? I’ll do my best to keep this site updated as things progress!
[Edited on 17/1/10 by orton1966]
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 17/1/10 at 10:56 PM |
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Cut holes in the table at strategic points to be able to clamp the rails of the chassis to the table in the middle, and prevent / reduce distortion.
I did this, and managed to get my chassis within 2 degrees of tolerance.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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orton1966
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| posted on 17/1/10 at 11:12 PM |
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Cheers for the advice
Yes the plan is to bolt and clamp tubes to the table, hence the thickness of the top and the strength of the structure below
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m8kwr
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| posted on 18/1/10 at 07:48 AM |
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What is the overall height of your chassis table?
I am in the process of building one myself, similar to yours, but just can't decide on the height.
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orton1966
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| posted on 18/1/10 at 02:32 PM |
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I deliberated for ages
Hi,
Yes I deliberated for ages before I started mine. In the end I went for:
700mm High (floor to top of top), seemed a good compromise between bending over a little when working on the lower rails and ability to reach the
middle once it gets higher
1220mm Wide, Width of standard boards and wide enough to position uprights on etc.
3000mm Long, Alows me to work to the full length of the chassis without repositioning
Good luck with your own build
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