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Author: Subject: Crazy Twin Engine idea.... Thoughts
tunsoffun

posted on 4/3/06 at 10:06 PM Reply With Quote
Crazy Twin Engine idea.... Thoughts

I've just come up with a crazy idea to make, for pure 1/4 mile racing, a twin bike engined rear drive car.

Each engine to drive a seperate wheel.

Suspension would be easier, as you could use bike style swing arms with flat car tires.

The only real problem I can see is getting the engine to rev the same, as every engine is slightly different.

What you think, Easy or just crazy and should be left well alone?

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nitram38

posted on 4/3/06 at 10:12 PM Reply With Quote
Try here:

http://furorecars.co.uk/

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tunsoffun

posted on 4/3/06 at 10:32 PM Reply With Quote
Beat to it.

At least I'm not the only crazy one about(?)

I was thinking of using the TL1000 Vtwin though (or any other V's), as it would save a bit more space and overcome the long/short drive shafts problem.

Also the swing are style suspension wouth overcome the sprocket problem he has.

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stevebubs

posted on 4/3/06 at 10:32 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tunsoffun

The only real problem I can see is getting the engine to rev the same, as every engine is slightly different.

What you think, Easy or just crazy and should be left well alone?


Blooming difficult!!! Only need to be partially out and you're in the wall...

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joolsmi16

posted on 4/3/06 at 10:44 PM Reply With Quote
twin engine

Can I ask why people go the twin engine route and not the single turbo charged engine?
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iank

posted on 4/3/06 at 11:03 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by joolsmi16
Can I ask why people go the twin engine route and not the single turbo charged engine?


Race regs maybe, and of course if allowed there's no reason not to put turbos on the twin setup

Though I agree the cost-benefit doesn't seem to work for anything that runs on the road.

The one engine per wheel idea (i.e. not using a combining box) sounds likely to kill someone though, only takes one engine to hiccough and you turn right or left really quickly! Even if you can keep them exactly in sync through cunning and expensive EFI.

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Fatgadget

posted on 4/3/06 at 11:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

Blooming difficult!!! Only need to be partially out and you're in the wall...



Shouldn't be too difficult to keep the 2 engines in equilibrium using sensors linked to a microcontroller. Could also link the steering input to the controller for a very interesting car!


quote:

Can I ask why people go the twin engine route and not the single turbo charged engine?



One could also ask why climb Ben Nevis instead of going for a leisurely stroll in the local park?

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froggy

posted on 4/3/06 at 11:21 PM Reply With Quote
wheres ns dev when you need him? keep looking its been done plenty of times before ,z cars twin r1 mini and loads of grasstrack cars
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MikeR

posted on 4/3/06 at 11:36 PM Reply With Quote
aaah, but the grassers have the read axle as a solid bar so you don't have this problem.

Who needs NS Dev?


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NS Dev

posted on 5/3/06 at 12:20 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by tunsoffun
Beat to it.

At least I'm not the only crazy one about(?)

I was thinking of using the TL1000 Vtwin though (or any other V's), as it would save a bit more space and overcome the long/short drive shafts problem.

Also the swing are style suspension wouth overcome the sprocket problem he has.



HERE I AM!!


I will be building a twin TL1000 powered RWD mini for grasstrack racing later this year once my 7 is finished.

Any ideas on sources for engines?

Re. keeping the engines in synch, what the hell is all this electronics talk!!!???

Just drive a common shaft with their gearbox outputs, and link the gearshifts, can't get much simpler than that!

As was said, most grassers don't run a diff so even easier, but if you want to run a diff, just chain drive a countershaft from both engines, then chain drive a diff from that.

I may be using a countershaft even with no diff, so i can mount the engines far back and drive from a countershaft behind them to a driveshaft flanged shaft in front to take the drive to the wheels.





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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NS Dev

posted on 5/3/06 at 12:22 AM Reply With Quote
PS reason the grassers don't run turbos is they are not allowed under the regs on bike engines, nat asp. only.

They still run twin 1600cc hayabusas tho with 245hp each, which still give nearly 1000 hp/tonne.





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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MikeR

posted on 5/3/06 at 09:10 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev

HERE I AM!!


I will be building a twin TL1000 powered RWD mini for grasstrack racing later this year once my 7 is finished.




Changed your mind again eh - should have realised you'd end up going this way after listening to you rave about the sound of the vtwins at Stratford.

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jimmyjoebob

posted on 5/3/06 at 11:53 AM Reply With Quote
Wolfrace sonic did this in the early eighties - used two rover v8s with automatic gearboxes driving separate diffs. This had 100 inputs and outputs to 'computer control' engines at same revs etc.

As said by people in earlier comments, why not use a more powerful single engine or link engines so that only one transmission and diff is required?





If at first you don't succeed, hide all evidence you ever tried!

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kb58

posted on 6/3/06 at 02:55 PM Reply With Quote
Cost.

A custom transmission to link two bike engines together would cost a mint.

"Just use a more powerful engine"? A stock Hayabusa has 175hp or so. Another $5k-$10k gets you upwards of 250hp. To go higher then that would require highly custom F1-type work, and we all know that's cheap...

Seeing that the Hayabusa-based V8 is ~$27,000 (with no tranny!) makes using two of them look quite attractive.





Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html

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Chris Clarke

posted on 7/3/06 at 03:27 AM Reply With Quote
quote:

why not use a more powerful single engine



The way I see it, with two bike engines, you can double the power (not quite) and keep them relatively stock, which means a lot less stress on the components. If you try and double the power through one engine, you are going to have to beef up everything, which means less reliability and more $.

[Edited on 7/3/06 by Chris Clarke]

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russbost

posted on 13/3/06 at 11:17 PM Reply With Quote
Having done it, I can tell you all the pitfalls, matching the engine outputs is NOT one of them - I have driven my car on one engine, driving one rear wheel & except under full power it barely deviates from the straight & narrow, to put it in the wall you'd have to be asleep. My biggest problem was getting the clutches to bite smoothly together (now solved). It's the cheapest route to big, high revving power, but if you've got a bit more dough to spare go the one big output engine route. Turboing does make it very pricey tho'. I have around 274 Bhp for about £1200 beat that in bangs per buck!
NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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kb58

posted on 14/3/06 at 02:34 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
I have around 274 Bhp for about £1200 beat that in bangs per buck!


Exactly... hard to beat money-wise.

[Edited on 3/14/06 by kb58]





Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html

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