dmrider_10
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| posted on 25/8/14 at 01:41 PM |
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Ok, so, after a busy week in work I got around to installing boot camp on my mac, installing windows 7, downloading the megajolt software and plugging
it in. I was met by this:
Now Ive never used a megajolt before, but Ive mapped a megasquirt or two (albeit a few years ago) and that says to me theres no map on there?!
With just the ignition on the advance reads 7 and at idle reads 18, which seems a bit high?
From what the previous owner said to me, (deezee^^^) the car should run ok with the megajolt unplugged even and just running on the EDIS.
Can anyone make sense of this?
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whitestu
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| posted on 25/8/14 at 03:21 PM |
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It's been a while since I used it so I can't remember the exact command but once you have communication between the MJ and your laptop you
have to 'load' the map from the MJ.
Looking at your image I think it us one of the buttons with the little blue up / down arrows. One uploads the map from your MJ to the software. The
other downloads a map to the MJ.
Stu
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davidimurray
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| posted on 25/8/14 at 05:02 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by whitestu
It's been a while since I used it so I can't remember the exact command but once you have communication between the MJ and your laptop you
have to 'load' the map from the MJ.
Looking at your image I think it us one of the buttons with the little blue up / down arrows. One uploads the map from your MJ to the software. The
other downloads a map to the MJ.
Stu
It's the blue arrow to retrieve the map from the MJ
Gallery 1 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.116893465324.130778.601005324
Gallery 2 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.245243755324.181913.601005324&l=a9831a9319
Gallery 3 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.440671625324.232627.601005324&l=3f0d42c523
Gallery 4 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.490098255324.297598.601005324&l=efb083b7df
Gallery 5 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150244028550325.366987.601005324&l=583fd5cd3a
Gallery 6 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150550640070325.430417.601005324&type=3&l=fe779b358c
Duratec Engine Swap https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f " target="_blank"> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f
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dmrider_10
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| posted on 25/8/14 at 05:09 PM |
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I actually realised this myself after posting grrr.
Ignition looks fine, TPS working as it should etc.
Just changing fuel filter and pump now
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dmrider_10
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| posted on 29/8/14 at 10:24 PM |
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Little update. Changed fuel filter and tested pump, all seemed fine. Didn't actually pressure test the pump but as its only running at 2psi
anyway I figured the car wouldn't even run if the pump was only half working etc. No change.
Went to my mates to use his trumpet type balancer...... couldn't get cylinder 1 to balance. When I looked into the trumpets with a torch, for
cylinders 2/3/4 I could see fuel being dribbled out at idle, at cylinder 1 there was nothing!
So tomorrows job is to remove the carbs AGAIN and strip cylinder 1 down to see whats what
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dmrider_10
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| posted on 31/8/14 at 03:20 PM |
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Ok problem is certainly to do with the idle circuit.
Once again had them in bits, cleaned everything, checked everything, reassembled.
No change. And at idle cylinder 1 (or 4 dunno which) isn't getting any fuel. AFR is 17:1. Raise the revs and fuel visibly comes out and AFR
drops to 14:1.
But for the life of me i can't clear whatevers blocking it :-(
Is sticking the whole assembly in the dishwasher and then an ultrasonic cleaner recommended!
Really doing ones swede in now
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davidimurray
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| posted on 31/8/14 at 06:03 PM |
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Glad your making some progress - a few things to check / try.
Have you checked the float heights are similar across all the carbs?
Try removing the idle screw and blowing car cleaner in from the bottom.
Do the diaphragms lift when you rev it?
Gallery 1 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.116893465324.130778.601005324
Gallery 2 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.245243755324.181913.601005324&l=a9831a9319
Gallery 3 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.440671625324.232627.601005324&l=3f0d42c523
Gallery 4 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.490098255324.297598.601005324&l=efb083b7df
Gallery 5 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150244028550325.366987.601005324&l=583fd5cd3a
Gallery 6 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150550640070325.430417.601005324&type=3&l=fe779b358c
Duratec Engine Swap https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f " target="_blank"> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f
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Dingz
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| posted on 31/8/14 at 06:25 PM |
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Just a thought, you say you can't get no.1 carb to balance with the others? looking at the photos it looks like the throttle cable is connected
to no.1 so that is the master carb that you need to balance the others to not the other way around. I suspect you have got that one shut and have
lifted the other butterflies.
Phoned the local ramblers club today, but the bloke who answered just
went on and on.
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dmrider_10
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| posted on 2/9/14 at 07:41 PM |
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Latest:
Yes checked float heights, all the same.
Diaphragms all look to move the same when revved yes.
As far as the balancing goes, please remember this setup was working fine beforehand. When adjusting the screw between cylinders 1+2, adding more bias
to cyl2 by screwing anti clockwise raises the revs, visibly more duel comes out from the needle. When turning the bias more towards cyl1 (the problem
cylinder) your basically making TWO cylinders run lean as your reducing fuel in cyl2, so the engine will eventually stall. All the while, zero fuel is
evident in cyl1 mouth.
Took the car to a mates garage and did a compression test (dry) and all cylinders were good. Thought maybe one was running weak and providing less
suck or something so was worth ruling out.
Ordered another set of carbs off ebay now, will change the jets over and see if the problem persists!
[Edited on 2/9/14 by dmrider_10]
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dmrider_10
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| posted on 19/9/14 at 09:31 AM |
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Hi everyone, still no luck with this car :-( Just looking for any old wild suggestions now!
To recap, ive:
Confirmed main jets are all 1.6mm
Pilot jets are standard
Float heights have been checked to 7mm
Carbs are balanced
Had manifold off, new gasket
New fluro silicone joiners and clamps
New fuel pump
Jets etc ultrasonically cleaned
Re calibrated LC1 in free air
Changed lambda sensor to another used one, re calibrated
No diaphragm rips/tears
Needles raised by one click
New plugs
Idle screw currently at 4 turns out
AFR gauge now reads 18:1 at all times while driving?!
[Edited on 19/9/14 by dmrider_10]
[Edited on 19/9/14 by dmrider_10]
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whitestu
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| posted on 19/9/14 at 10:10 AM |
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quote:
AFR gauge now reads 18:1 at all times while driving?!
It doesn't seem feasible that the AFR is actually 18.1 at all times when driving so that must mean the AFR meter isn't working right?
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dmrider_10
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| posted on 19/9/14 at 10:35 AM |
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Obviously I also thought this as the car seems to run ok, no coughing and spluttering, no missing, no jerking etc.
But obviously i darent boot it when the gauge is telling me different.
Im booked in at blink motorsport next week for a RR sesh which will hopefully confirm/deny whether the sideband is reading correctly.
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dmrider_10
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| posted on 28/9/14 at 08:31 AM |
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Problem Solved :-)
Well after trying bloody everything and systematically ticking off everything it could be causing this, doing some of it 20 times etc, I decided to
get booked in on the dyno to check the AFRs against my LC1.
Went down to runcorn to see Chris at EFI parts, comes highly reccomended and I can only add my own reccomendation to that as he was brilliant. Got the
car on the rollers after discussing the issue with him, him agreeing that he finds it hard to believe the car would even have made it down to him if
it was running the constant 18:1 the gauge displayed. Sure enough, the fuelling was spot on!
Turns out the Lambda sensor for the LC1 is goosed, as is the spare (used) one that I had changed to, we plugged Chris' own bosch sensor into my
controller and the gauge read correctly :-)
I was so relieved! I really didnt think that would be the outcome as having already changed the lambda sensor I assumed both sensors couldnt be broken
and therefore took that it was reading correctly.
Just goes to show if your saying to yourself "I really dont think that gauge can be reading right, but will assume it is" then sometimes
It pays to get it checked!
I can actually now start enjoying and tinkering with the car to improve it, instead of removing the carbs every other day!
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davidimurray
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| posted on 29/9/14 at 07:29 PM |
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Great news and annoyingly simple 
On the bright side, at least you know your carbs are in top condition now!
Gallery 1 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.116893465324.130778.601005324
Gallery 2 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.245243755324.181913.601005324&l=a9831a9319
Gallery 3 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.440671625324.232627.601005324&l=3f0d42c523
Gallery 4 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.490098255324.297598.601005324&l=efb083b7df
Gallery 5 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150244028550325.366987.601005324&l=583fd5cd3a
Gallery 6 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150550640070325.430417.601005324&type=3&l=fe779b358c
Duratec Engine Swap https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f " target="_blank"> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f
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dmrider_10
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| posted on 29/9/14 at 09:35 PM |
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The whole fuel system is minty fresh!
Thanks for the help though everyone.
The car made 155bhp at 6500rpm but was still making power and I think the rs2000 boys up the rev limit to 7k on these engines so I think ill be
looking into that :-)
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