Myke 2463
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| posted on 6/1/16 at 09:50 AM |
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Another vote for R_Tech products and service. I have the R-Tech Tig160PDC and for the same amps as the BOC we have at work has a lot more power.
When i upgrade my Cebora mig it will be from R-Tech.
Be Lucky Mike.
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CorseChris
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| posted on 6/1/16 at 10:11 AM |
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I did spot the DC jobs, certainly a lot cheaper. The ability to weld aluminium adds a lot to that doesn't it. Over double the price, and I
don't really need that ability. Nice to have it for sure...but need it, nope.
Then again, spend £900 and you get AC, as well as a foot pedal they charge at least £100 for......aarrggghhhh!!
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b14wrc
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| posted on 6/1/16 at 12:34 PM |
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I just bought a Jasic 200 - very nice TIG machine, sold my old PARweld but didnt go far to funding the Jasic. Wish i had started with a TIG rather
than the MIG.......
20vt powered rear engined locost
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big_wasa
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| posted on 6/1/16 at 04:16 PM |
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I think both have there uses.
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coozer
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| posted on 7/1/16 at 10:49 PM |
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Is this too good/cheap to be worth a punt??
http://www.eastmachinery.com/product/11706.html?pay=gbp&gclid=COPcmevjmMoCFQb3wgodjJsJQw
£150 sounds like an ideal amount to start with....
And, how on earth do I get rid of that massive turbo pic above so this thread fits my tablet????
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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CorseChris
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| posted on 8/1/16 at 10:20 AM |
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That looks very similar to the cheap one I bought....and haven't actually used yet! Same spec and features, different case by the look of it. I
paid a bit less, it was an auction and I got lucky. They probably cost about £20 wholesale 
This was the one I bought. Got it for just over £100.
http://www.tigmig.it/en/tig-wig/tig-dc/saldatrice-inverter-tig-alta-frequenza-200-amp-tigmig-inverter-tm-200-hf.2.1.49.gp.442.uw.aspx
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b14wrc
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| posted on 22/11/16 at 12:32 PM |
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Hi Steve,
Any updates?
I have got back to mine......
Keen to see your progress mate.
Rob
20vt powered rear engined locost
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coozer
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| posted on 22/11/16 at 02:46 PM |
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Just bought a boost gauge, arrived this morning... That progress??
Currently stripping a Jimmy to donate its engine box axles dash and wiring to the jeep..
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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b14wrc
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| posted on 22/11/16 at 09:38 PM |
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No lol!
Let's get some photos, even I've managed to get the car out on the road outside my house over the summer... 
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/26/viewthread.php?tid=206679
Rob
20vt powered rear engined locost
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ianhurley20
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| posted on 29/1/17 at 02:40 PM |
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Hope I am not intruding on this thread. I have been inspired to get the Midlana book by an inspirational chat with big_wasa. Ok mine is not going to
be the fastest build but I am negotiating to buy a focus ST 170 for engine and gearbox etc.
Reading the book I see the car uses the 'catfish' nose cone which is 4" shorter and 3" wider than a standard seven nose so I
asked Martin Batho if he could produce an aluminium nose to fit as he makes a complete aluminium set of panels for the seven. His reply was that he
could and if he could get 3 orders he would do them at the same price as his seven nose cone Have a look at http://bathoscars.simpl.com/shop.html for
some idea of his work. Price is a fairly hefty £475 but I must say his work does look rather nice.
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coozer
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| posted on 29/1/17 at 05:09 PM |
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Your welcome Ian, Im just going to either mod a standard nose or build one a lot different out of bits of mdf, ali etc..
Have you got the book? I got mine off lulu.
https://www.lulu.com/shop/search.ep?keyWords=midlana&type=
Keep an eye on it as they do have discounts often. Got mine for way less than half price!
[Edited on 29/1/17 by coozer]
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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big_wasa
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| posted on 29/1/17 at 05:19 PM |
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Problem is storing a work of art like that for several years before getting around to using it.
2nd issue, out of the half doezen builds on the go none are 100% to the book.
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ianhurley20
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| posted on 29/1/17 at 06:05 PM |
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Thanks Coozer - I'm jealous, whilst I did get 20% discount I can't say I matched your price!
Big_wasa - I agree about storage, I will not be sorting a nose cone out until I'm close to needing it. A friend of mine is trying to build an
aluminium bodied seven and will probably be investing in several of Martins products, I'm sure it will look nice but fiberglass does as well.
IanR
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Your welcome Ian, Im just going to either mod a standard nose or build one a lot different out of bits of mdf, ali etc..
Have you got the book? I got mine off lulu.
https://www.lulu.com/shop/search.ep?keyWords=midlana&type=
Keep an eye on it as they do have discounts often. Got mine for way less than half price!
[Edited on 29/1/17 by coozer]
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b14wrc
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| posted on 29/1/17 at 07:22 PM |
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Mine is going to be full carbon, I'll make the moulds myself to fit the car. Mine is very none standard. Sorry can't help, Rob
20vt powered rear engined locost
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CorseChris
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| posted on 27/5/17 at 11:05 AM |
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Minor update from me. Not started actual construction yet, but it's getting close. Donor engine prep almost complete now, gearbox currently
underway then its just the brakes and uprights to finish off. I've now got some of the steel and all the rod end joints etc. Balance of the
steel will follow shortly, although still waiting to hear back from my chosen supplier on that order. Must nag them. I've sourced oversized
sheets of MDF to make the build table which is good. The alternative of using 8 x 4 sheets was cheaper, but to make a 10 x 5 table would mean doing a
massive jigsaw which is a loud of hassle and also not as good as a single piece. It'll cost about an extra £60 to do it in one piece - bargain I
reckon.
I've been experimenting with zinc plating on some of the parts I've refurbished - pretty happy with the results on the whole. Given how
much I spent on new bolts etc on the last Alfa engine I rebuilt, this has turned out a lot cheaper, is more effective (most of the OEM Alfa bolts are
just painted and start rusting as soon as you touch them with a spanner) and I've also been able to use it on many and varied brackets &
fixings that previously I would have painted.
Result so far.....
[Edited on 27/5/17 by CorseChris]
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coozer
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| posted on 27/5/17 at 12:17 PM |
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That looks very good mate..
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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CorseChris
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| posted on 23/10/17 at 11:40 AM |
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I've made a start on the chassis since my last post. Coming along OK on the whole and really quite enjoying the whole process so far.
This was taken a while back - I've since done the front suspension brackets, made the font wishbones & rockers etc, most of the rear
wishbones too as well as adding some more structure at the back ready for the engine.
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ianhurley20
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| posted on 23/10/17 at 02:24 PM |
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That looks brilliant - er - I had better get properly started on mine er soon.
Seeing your chassis like that really does bring home how strong the Midlana chassis looks
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CorseChris
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| posted on 19/8/18 at 11:42 AM |
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I see this thread has been languishing a bit.
I'm still plodding along with my build. Basic structure is done, if I had wheels for it, it could be called a rolling chassis. I've moved
onto the fiddly bits now - plumbing etc. Engine install is all done, including a remote oil filter setup (had no choice about that) and an oil cooler,
as well as the exhaust system.
I've got the gearshift and handbrake sorted, currently trying to persuade coolant lines, hydraulics and electrics down the spine of the car.
Having the tank where it is makes getting them into the engine bay a bit of a mare TBH, but the other choice of having them go under the tank brings
another set of problems so I'll stick with it. I'm getting there, it's just a bit of a challenge.
Drivers eye view. Upper column, instruments and switchgear from the donor 166, lower column and rack from the donor MX5. Steering wheel is a
pre-enjoyed Westfield IVA friendly job (centre pad not fitted here, obviously...) on a home-brew adapter/spacer arrangement that proved annoyingly
awkward to sort out....
The exhaust system. Mostly it was OK to make, but it got a bit funky trying to get the two banks of the V piped through to a merge under/just in front
of the lower silencer can. It got very tight in there due to the rear suspension support structure. There's a CAT inside the first can. Keen to
hear how it sounds. I've gone for a single pipe system, rather than a pipe-per-bank for a few reasons. Only needs one CAT, will be quieter this
way, should sound better this way too. My last V6 had a pipe-per bank and even though the outlets were side by side, it always sounded a bit
'odd'.
After all the welder angst way back when, I recently succumbed and bought a half-decent AC TIG anyway, despite having built most of the car with the
comedy cheap but remarkably good for the money Chineseium DC only job I started with. I realised I was going to have to do a fair amount of aluminium
welding one way or another, so didn't have a lot of choice. Should have got one at the start I suppose. I've found I'm using way
more TIG than MIG. I use MIG when I can, but only if I have good access. Otherwise, it turns to poo. I find TIG so much easier to deal with.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 19/8/18 at 03:29 PM |
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Fantastic engineering 
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ianhurley20
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| posted on 19/8/18 at 06:19 PM |
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Brilliant progress - sorry I've still not properly even started. Got lots of bits thanks to er - another - got a TIG - er - thanks to another -
but still not made a start properly as I am changing the engine gearbox in my Haynes, helping build an ST170 engined Tiger Avon and also helping build
another Haynes which started as a Zetec engined car but is now seeming to go MX5 ... and .. the boss (wife) wants me do do some house decorating
(managed to get out of that for 12 years but maybe ought to do at least one room ;-)
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CorseChris
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| posted on 20/8/18 at 08:33 AM |
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I've been pretty free of major distractions thankfully. Didn't do much over the winter months, and more recently in the hot weather, had a
bit of a break as it gets fiercely hot in the shed when the sun shines. Wussed out and fitted aircon so that excuse has gone.
Had a small break from proceedings to fit a new clutch into the Westfield but that's it for excuses.
Did a bit more plumbing and aluminium welding yesterday. It really is pretty tight round the handbrake. Had to tweak that a wee bit to help but think
I've got it now. I'm using the same technique I used for the exhaust here - buying bends, cutting out angles to suit, then gluing them
together. Not the best way, but the chances of me being able to accurately describe what bends I need where, and getting tubes bent to fit..then
having them actually fit, are close to zero. The other option of lots of straight bits with hose joints is even less enticing. I'll be giving
them a thorough leak-test before final fitment though.
And an aluminium weld. Comments/critique always welcome. I'm hoping to get better as I practice. I know I should practice, practice, practice
before I get to the actual job, but, well, shan't
beforebefore
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CorseChris
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| posted on 21/10/18 at 12:02 PM |
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In the spirit of me continuing to totally hijack this thread....
Did the first start on the engine on Friday. Overall not too bad. Took three goes. First one failed as some idiot (cough) had plumbed the fuel pump
bass-ackwards and had the HP fuel output and vapour recovery ports mixed up. Engine received fresh air, floor received HP fuel.
After I cleared up the worst of the fuel spill, 2nd go was better with it firing up but clearly unhappy. Realised I had forgotten to blank the brake
servo vacuum port on the plenum.
3rd go was much more as expected. It's a bit clattery at the moment as it's been sat built for over a year so the lifters are a bit dry.
This was, and they normally are, a very quiet engine so this should improve once the oil works its way round properly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEsTHGm_9KQ
Couple of issues after the start. A MIL, which I traced to the absence of the A/C control relay and also the absence of the vapour recovery solenoid.
I won't have either on the car, so I've spoofed them with 220 Ohm resistors. I needed to make some minor wiring mods to do that tidily, so
that was done yesterday.
Other issue was a tiny oil leak in a fitting I welded up from some parts. This is in the oil cooler circuit and should be an easy enough fix. Slightly
miffed it leaked at all really, as it'll take some cleaning before I can re-weld it. Was thinking I might be able to cheat actually. I'm
going to see if there is enough room to push the hose on a bit more and past the leak, so I can use that to seal it up for now. I can do it properly
when the whole car gets torn down for paint etc.
As of now, mechanically, it's basically finished. Electrics are pretty much done as well, with just the loom tails for the front and rear lights
to tidy once I decide what the lights will be and where they will fit. A few small jobs here and there like fitting the screen demister but the bulk
of the remaining work is all about the bodywork now.
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big_wasa
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| posted on 21/10/18 at 12:48 PM |
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That is some lovley work you have done there.
I just wish I had more space and time.
I often find the engines are very noisy on a stand like that as you can hear every click of every solenoid, injector and even the relays.
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CorseChris
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| posted on 22/10/18 at 08:44 AM |
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True enough. Being inside the shed makes it worse too of course. Normally, all you get with one of these at idle is the sound of the injectors.
Found the oil leak yesterday. As suspected, a porous weld. By the time I had "repaired" it, I'd got rather too good weld penetration
and started to close up the oil path so I've junked it and ordered a proper fitting. I confess I never even looked at how much I could get them
for, just DIYed out of what I had to hand. Turns out £8 gets you a decent looking M18 banjo, bolt and a pair of Dowty washers too.
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