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Author: Subject: erratic rev counter
Matysiak

posted on 24/2/09 at 06:57 AM Reply With Quote
erratic rev counter

My rev counter is misbehaving on my crossflow. Works fine until 3000 rpm or so, then flies flies off the scale. Some times it's a little erratic at idle bouncing around.

Another interesting point is my timing light doesn't want to flash until the revs are around 3000 rpm.

I have re run the ground cables to the rev counter, the coil is new, new plugs, distributor is only six months old - electronic, new alternator.

Any ideas?

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Matysiak

posted on 25/2/09 at 08:01 AM Reply With Quote
ANyone any ideas for me to try?
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C10CoryM

posted on 25/2/09 at 03:00 PM Reply With Quote
Does the car run ok?
Sounds like maybe your primary ignition signal (the one that collapses the coil and makes spark out of the secondary part of the coil. also what tachometers and timing light read.) may be the problem.
The car would be running poorly though. Check the power/ground for the ign module,distributor or whatever your car uses. They can get screwed up if they share circuits with other things that short out.





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Matysiak

posted on 25/2/09 at 04:54 PM Reply With Quote
The car is running okay, but not great. Starts fine, revs okay but seems really lacking in power.

The car has an electronic Lucas distributor.

What part is responsible for the signal, the coil or the ignition module?

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C10CoryM

posted on 26/2/09 at 01:50 AM Reply With Quote
Well, I am going to ASSume the lucas setup is similar to most others. My terminology may be different as well but here goes:

The primary ignition signal comes out of the ignition module, and goes to the negative side of the ignition coil. The primary signal is what controls when the coil discharges. This signal is also what tells your tachometer how fast the engine is spinning.
Because this signal controls when the coil discharges, it must be "clean" and accurate. If it is dirty, you may get weak spark, or spark at the incorrect time. If the signal shorts to ground through a defective tachometer (for example), the car will shut off. Also a V6 or V8 tach may make a 4cyl run poorly.

If that didn't help clear up how things work try this:
Disconnect the wire of the tachometer that goes to the negative side of the coil. Then try your timing light again. If the timing light flashes as it is supposed to, try driving the car and see how it feels.





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Matysiak

posted on 2/3/09 at 02:27 PM Reply With Quote
I disconected the speedo from the coil and the timing light flashed perfectly at idle, but as soon as i revved the car, it stopped flashing. I on;t revved the car slightly for the timing light to stop working.

Must be a wiring issue?

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MikeRJ

posted on 2/3/09 at 02:31 PM Reply With Quote
What is the make/model of tachometer you are using?
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Matysiak

posted on 2/3/09 at 05:59 PM Reply With Quote
Its an autogauge 85 mm. Was bought new with all the other gauges.
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C10CoryM

posted on 3/3/09 at 02:30 AM Reply With Quote
The timing light should be picking up the secondary voltage on the wire. For it to stop flashing means that:
your car is not running
the wire you are on has no spark going through it (try another wire)
or your timing light is dead

The only other thing would be that the secondary signal is so ugly the timing light can't pick it up accurately. Not very likely as the car should die before that.
Try another cylinders wire and if not better try another timing light.

The aftermarket tachometer may have a way to set it for 4, 6 or 8 cylinder.... make sure yours is set right.





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C10CoryM

posted on 3/3/09 at 02:37 AM Reply With Quote
Have a look here:
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Autogage-Tachometer.htm

Looks like autoguage has their tachs set to 8cyl. That may be all your problem is.





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