antwan
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| posted on 2/11/09 at 08:43 PM |
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Pinto doesnt want to play
Hi all,
I hope you can shed some light on this. I have a very lazy pinto in my mac1 and am desparate to get some more power out of it before I take it onto
the track. Reading articles, this SHOULD give me about 115bhp. Good for now!
I had a completely standard 2L with a brand new 32/36 carb. I decided to change the cam to a burton fast road. Unfortunately the result is
dissapointing to say the least.
Before changing the cam the car ran well but lacked top end power. You felt the engine was resisting anything over 4k revs and it was easier to change
up and floor it than to force. Above the magic 4k, it would also can squirt a little oil out of the top of the sump vent pipe which rises upto the
inlet manifold (??). Oil level good, oil pressure around 3bar (OK?)
Now I have changed the cam (by the book), and the effect is minimal, and the 4k reservation is still evident. It is now also running spluttery agghhhh
It is also gettin tougher to get started. Any ideas..... plleeeeaasse! Why will it not rev!
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jacko
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| posted on 2/11/09 at 08:49 PM |
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Cam timing not set right did you use a timing disc to set it up + have you got a vernier pulley fitted ?
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antwan
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| posted on 2/11/09 at 08:52 PM |
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Just bought the cam. Rather than loosing the cam timing I marked all the pullys before changing the cam and belt. Could it even run if it was a tooth
out? Would explain that there has been no change.
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flak monkey
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| posted on 2/11/09 at 08:59 PM |
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Wrong timing then.
The fast road cam needs a totally different set up to the std one.
Get a timing disc then follow the instructions on the burton website (they are pretty good). Also ideally need a vernier pulley
Long and short is this
Fit timing disc and pointer
Turn crank to correct deg ATDC as indicated in cam specs (full lift point)
Use DTI to find cam full lift (if you dont have one you can set by eye (should get you within a degree or 2)
Fit belt with crank and cam in correct positions as above.
Job done.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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vinny1275
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| posted on 2/11/09 at 09:02 PM |
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As above...
If you were having the problems before you changed the cam, it could be that the original one was out as well! It's not too tricky to set up,
Burton's instructions are very good - the hardest bit I found doing it with the engine in the car was getting a spanner on the crank pulley bolt
Good luck
HTH
Vince
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jacko
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| posted on 2/11/09 at 09:02 PM |
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Beat me to it David
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antwan
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| posted on 2/11/09 at 09:06 PM |
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Thanks all,
I have now made this my next job! Any other setting up top tips to squeeze out the power, or just put foot down harder!
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nick205
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| posted on 2/11/09 at 09:16 PM |
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IMHO the first thing you need to check and correct is the jetting on your carb.
Do you know what it was jetted for out of the box?
If jetted for a standard road car - e.g. Cortina, Sierra then you will need bigger jets to account for less restrictive air filter and exhaust.
The +4k rpm hesitation which has remained from old cam to new is (IMHO) a strong indication.
As above, the timing will also need to be correctly set-up to get the best from any cam installed.
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RAYLEE29
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| posted on 2/11/09 at 09:45 PM |
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If your getting oil out the breather maybe your rings are stuck have you done a compression test? worth a look
Ray
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prawnabie
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| posted on 2/11/09 at 10:02 PM |
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If you are in the midlands I have a DTI and a timing wheel you can borrow..
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austin man
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| posted on 2/11/09 at 11:19 PM |
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I reckon the timing was out by a tooth, this will be further emphasised by the new timming requirement of the new cam, once the cam is timed in the
distributor will also need setting up statically thats obviously if your uding a dizzy. And again agree that your carb will need adjusting. Depending
on the cam fitted you may not notice any difference until about 2500 rpm. Are you sure all valvse clearance are correct the new cam may require a
different setting my Kent cam in the A series did
Life is like a bowl of fruit, funny how all the weird looking ones are left alone
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Dingz
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| posted on 3/11/09 at 12:02 AM |
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You will need to advance your ignition timing from somewhere around 6-8° btdc standard to about 14 for starters, back it off if you get pinking but I
wonder if you have a fuelling problem, ie not enough getting to the carb. Check your filters aren't blocked or there is crap floating about in
the tank which can block the outlet pipe.
Phoned the local ramblers club today, but the bloke who answered just
went on and on.
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DRC INDY 7
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| posted on 3/11/09 at 07:17 AM |
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with my standard set up on my 1640 pinto on bike carbs i run the timing at 14 degrees and it goes like a rocket
for your cam you need to be setting it between 14 to 18 degrees
https://www.facebook.com/groups/462610273778799/
Puddle Dodgers Club
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 3/11/09 at 07:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
IMHO the first thing you need to check and correct is the jetting on your carb.
The carb settings should be the last thing to do when tuning an engine. Why waste time and money changing jets etc when all the settings would go out
of the window if the cam timing, valve clearances and ignition timing are altered? Incorrect cam timing and also incorrect valve clearances will cause
loads of problems
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antwan
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| posted on 3/11/09 at 07:20 PM |
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Thanks chaps! Can anyone shed any light on what the breather pipe? is between the lower part of the block and the inlet manifold. How come there is no
tight seal between the lower end of the pipe and the filter looking thing in the block?
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