Took my F/S Expert out of the box today. Regrettably, I'm no expert, (far from it, as regular visitors to this site know).
Has anyone any photos af their installation (Expert or Pro) please? If so would you be kind enough to post them for me?
I have the 'Club' version fitted, (no vacuum take-off) and I'm scared witless about taking a drill to the Busa inlet manifold.
Graham at F/S is imensely helpful, but my knowledge and skill levels are off his radar. Nothing is too basic for me!
Hi Bob,
Here is a photo of the Expert blipper fitted to a GSXR1000 K7 throttle body.
The vacuum takeoff is arrowed.
I tapped the spare boss next to the existing vacuum take off on the barrel nearest the blipper.
This was tapped M5 and I made up a threaded barb with a 3mm bore.
Bob there is quite a bit involved in fitting the system. There is a couple of problems with fitting one to a gen 11 busa.
To get a vacum to work youre blipper you can't drill your trottle body manifold as there just not enought room to do it with the double
butterfly. You will have to remove the trottle bodies and actually drill the inlet in the block . Being extremely careful not to get swarf down the
inlet valve, it can be done just be careful . it's also advisable to keep your sensor at the engine side of your cable it takes a while to set
up correctly .. Just make sure you make small adjustment. Double check your wiring and make sure you cut the right wiring going to your coils .
Its not really a job for a total novice . But if you careful it can be done
Anybody close by into bikes might help you out
When I get home I get some pics of the vacum take off
Bob there is quite a bit involved in fitting the system. There is a couple of problems with fitting one to a gen 11 busa.
To get a vacum to work youre blipper you can't drill your trottle body manifold as there just not enought room to do it with the double
butterfly. You will have to remove the trottle bodies and actually drill the inlet in the block . Being extremely careful not to get swarf down the
inlet valve, it can be done just be careful . it's also advisable to keep your sensor at the engine side of your cable it takes a while to set
up correctly .. Just make sure you make small adjustment. Double check your wiring and make sure you cut the right wiring going to your coils .
Its not really a job for a total novice . But if you careful it can be done
Anybody close by into bikes might help you out
When I get home I get some pics of the vacum take off
Both replies are really appreciated.
The particular application with ref to the Gen ll Busa would be of immense help noc231073.
I want to collect as much information as possible before I embark on the fitting. The 'Club' model is fine as far as it goes, but having
paid for the downshift-capable model (Pro, which Graham upgraded to Expert f.o.c.) it would be crackers to leave it in the box. I won't start
any substitution until I'm confident the exercise can be completed successfully.
Regards and thanks. Bob. (I can never have too much help).
quote:Originally posted by noc231073
Bob there is quite a bit involved in fitting the system. There is a couple of problems with fitting one to a gen 11 busa.
To get a vacum to work youre blipper you can't drill your trottle body manifold as there just not enought room to do it with the double
butterfly. You will have to remove the trottle bodies and actually drill the inlet in the block . Being extremely careful not to get swarf down the
inlet valve, it can be done just be careful . it's also advisable to keep your sensor at the engine side of your cable it takes a while to set
up correctly .. Just make sure you make small adjustment. Double check your wiring and make sure you cut the right wiring going to your coils .
Its not really a job for a total novice . But if you careful it can be done
Anybody close by into bikes might help you out
When I get home I get some pics of the vacum take off
Hi All - I'm new here and saw this thread. I'm building a Fury with Gen 2 and Flatshifter. Have not got that far yet but looking at the
throttle body casting, there are 2 bosses - one either side of the primary injectors. One is used for the Inlet Air Pressure sensor and the other is
blank. I should think this could be used for a vac line to the auto blip on the flatshifter.
When I get home I get some pics of the vacum take off
Hi All - I'm new here and saw this thread. I'm building a Fury with Gen 2 and Flatshifter. Have not got that far yet but looking at the
throttle body casting, there are 2 bosses - one either side of the primary injectors. One is used for the Inlet Air Pressure sensor and the other is
blank. I should think this could be used for a vac line to the auto blip on the flatshifter.
Check out the archive photos noc had kindly posted.
I've been in contact with Graham at Flatshifter who says "Use the vacuum take-off that's already there, drill it out to 2.5mm all
the way through and block off the rubber pipe you've pulled off."
In a separate message, Graham says, "We do supply in the Flatshifter kit a replacement for the vacuum take-off with the correct 2.5 hole. In
many cases the original one unscrews and you replace it with the one supplied in the kit; if not, it does have to be drilled out."
On a related issue, I asked him about the Shift Star too. Not his product, but is highly recommended by SJL who's fitted one to his Westfield
Busa. Graham says "The Shift Star is a very good product and does improve the standard gearchange."
I'll be looking for a Shift Star (it's a U.S. product) once I've got the 'Expert' fitted. (The mention of 'cutting
wires' means I need to enlist the aid of a friendly 'spark.'
Good luck.
Ok. Got the Expert fitted today.
Tickover is 1,100-1,200 rpm, but with the engine fully warmed up, the butterflies are still fully closed.
Not taken the car out yet to check F/S operation.
Any comments/ideas please?
You shouldnt need to take the car out to test it, on the flatshifter box it should have a test switch with up and down. You push it towards the up and
you should hear the engine cut out momentarily and go down and it should blip the throttle.
quote:Originally posted by eddie99
You shouldnt need to take the car out to test it, on the flatshifter box it should have a test switch with up and down. You push it towards the up and
you should hear the engine cut out momentarily and go down and it should blip the throttle.
Eddie.
Yep, the momentary cut is there on test upshift and downshift selection on the box, exactly as the instructions say.
It's just that whilst I had the air-filter and gubbins off, I noted that the butterflies were all closed, despite the fact that the engine was
fully warmed up, having been running for 6 or 7 minutes on the driveway.
My concern is that I would have thought that the ECU/ISCV would have leaned off the mixture and opened the butteflies by that point?
The secondary butterflies are not there to operate as a choke, that is taken care of by the engine temperature sensor. The reason the butterflies did
not move was because you didn't rev the engine. the secondary butterflies control air flow through the throttle bodies keeping the air speed as
high as possible at all times. so they will move when you rev the engine and open the primary butterflies. hope that helps.
If it can't be fixed with a hammer then its probably an electrical problem.
The secondary butterflies are not there to operate as a choke, that is taken care of by the engine temperature sensor. The reason the butterflies did
not move was because you didn't rev the engine. the secondary butterflies control air flow through the throttle bodies keeping the air speed as
high as possible at all times. so they will move when you rev the engine and open the primary butterflies. hope that helps.
Thankyou Mike.
I wish I knew as much as you've forgotten. I'd be ten times more knowledgeable.
Bob the coil cut is more of a direct cut of the engine kind of has if it has missed (ie kind of when a engine misfires) if it stutters you may need to
wire in closer to the coil it has been known that if not wired correct it can cut power to the ecu which may explain a stutter you will soon know if
its wired correct as the up change when giving it some beans is so smooth you wont know its changed gear !!!!
Steve,
Didn't get out to test yesterday. Cu Nims everywhere and hosed it down big-style as it turned out.
Turbo911,
Thanks for the heads up. The 'Expert' was a direct replacement for the factory-fitted 'Club,' so we left the
shift sensor and wiring as was and just substituted the old box with the two new boxes and added the blipper.
With the Club, the low speed F/S upshift was indeed 'grabby' at low rpm (5-7k), but much smoother higher up the rev range.
I'll post how the test run goes.
Thanks for all your time troops. Much appreciated and highly valued.
As promised: Road tested successfully.
27c at 10 am, like driving with 100 hairdryers on your face full-chat.
Upshifts almost seamless when 'giving it beans.' A little lumpy when not doing so.
Will need to back off the blipper a little as the downshift is 'aggressive' (for road use).
I noticed three other things too.
1. I used earplugs and WOW! The noise/racket/high freq stuff you're aware of when you remove the plugs whilst driving is frightening. I was
amazed at just how much they cut out. Will wear 'em all the time now.
2. Bugs travelling at 120kph hurt. I'll wear a daft 'at from now on.
3. The lowest part of the exhaust manifold is in contact with and has partially melted the glass immediately adjacent to it. No biggie, but the hole
needs enlarging by a cm or so.
