GaryM
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| posted on 13/8/05 at 02:16 PM |
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Anyone care to comment on my engine mounts?
 
Xflow engine mount
All feedback welcome....... before I make them permanent.
The ali insert will be replaced with a rubber bush.
The plate between G1 and F1 is temporary, I'm planning on using something slight larger.
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JoelP
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| posted on 13/8/05 at 02:45 PM |
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better than mine, which never broke. 
what wall thickness is the main part?
[Edited on 13/8/05 by JoelP]
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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suparuss
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| posted on 13/8/05 at 02:47 PM |
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the plate that the bottom bit is made of looks a bit thin to me. under heavy braking it will have high bending loads on the bracket bits.
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GaryM
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| posted on 13/8/05 at 07:41 PM |
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Engine plate = 5mm
Arm = 38mm x 2mm wall thickness
Triangular Bracket sides 3mm
Chassis plate = 3mm
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ned
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| posted on 13/8/05 at 08:48 PM |
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looks good to me. I think skippad has some of a similar design, check his archive.
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 13/8/05 at 10:09 PM |
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my only comment would be
"look fine too me"
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Rorty
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| posted on 14/8/05 at 03:21 AM |
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Cheers, Rorty.
"Faster than a speeding Pullet".
PLEASE DON'T U2U ME IF YOU WANT A QUICK RESPONSE. TRY EMAILING ME INSTEAD!
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suparuss
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| posted on 14/8/05 at 07:23 AM |
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looks like im the only pessimistc bastard ere then 
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G.Man
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| posted on 14/8/05 at 08:20 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by suparuss
looks like im the only pessimistc bastard ere then
Always need a pessimist for a reality check..
Looks okay to me, especially when he put...
quote:
The plate between G1 and F1 is temporary, I'm planning on using something slight larger.
So he was with you all along
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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kango
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| posted on 16/8/05 at 07:59 AM |
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I can just see it being very difficult to get the engine in and out. You will have to lift it over the ears of the brackets and then slide it down.
I made my brackets to have enough movement to almost change the clutch with out having to take out the engine and then stll keeping the engine on its
mounts.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 16/8/05 at 08:52 AM |
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Look spot on in every way except what Kango mentioned, make sure you can get the engine in and out! (suppose you can undo the mount to block bolts but
that's a pain in the a)
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Peteff
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| posted on 16/8/05 at 09:08 AM |
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You could slot the holes to the top of the bracket and put some big washers under the bolt and nut. It looks like it might be a bit fiddly to line up
and I doubt if the engine will jump upwards when the bolts are tight.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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suparuss
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| posted on 16/8/05 at 08:57 PM |
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ahhh, guess i didnt read it fully. thats the bottom line of his post so i probably thought it was his sig.
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the JoKeR
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| posted on 17/8/05 at 12:35 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
Look spot on in every way except what Kango mentioned, make sure you can get the engine in and out! (suppose you can undo the mount to block bolts but
that's a pain in the a)
Eight extra bolts shouldn't be a big deal - unless he's planning to pull the engine on a monthly basis?!? At least they're easy to
reach.
__________________________
Jeff
http://www.midwestwelding.com
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/
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kango
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| posted on 18/8/05 at 04:17 AM |
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I would weld the "U" bracket to a plate with 2 bolts either side and the mount the standard plate to the chassis. Slot this plate so you
can drop the engine into the engine compartment and the move it into the correct position.
I don't know about you but I usually work alone and there fore every thing must be designed that way.
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