liftarn
|
| posted on 26/4/06 at 11:24 AM |
|
|
Gear shift linkage
How have you done it?
|
|
|
|
|
Fred W B
|
| posted on 26/4/06 at 11:37 AM |
|
|
Like this
Cheers
Fred W B
|
|
|
kb58
|
| posted on 26/4/06 at 02:38 PM |
|
|
Push-pull cables using a modified Honda shifter assembly.
What kind of engine/tranny is this for?
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
|
|
|
liftarn
|
| posted on 26/4/06 at 04:57 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by kb58
What kind of engine/tranny is this for?
Classic SAAB 900. So it's an inline engine. That shouldn't change the basic idea, but it may need a longer link.
Oh, and I'm in Sweden so I will sit to the left and have the shifter to my right.
An interesting sollution I found on the SAAB Sonett mk1 is to have the shifter on the outside (right of the driver in a right hand driving
configuration).
[Edited on 26/4/06 by liftarn]
|
|
|
liftarn
|
| posted on 30/4/06 at 03:06 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by kb58
Push-pull cables using a modified Honda shifter assembly.
Got any pictures?
|
|
|
kb58
|
| posted on 30/4/06 at 03:26 PM |
|
|
Only this one:
http://www.kimini.com/Diaries/Pre2003/shiftdone.jpg
It's a very modified Honda shifter and there are two push-pull cables. One cable selects row, and the other chooses column. The two cables go
back, under the engine, curve upward and over to the transmission.
It was a fun puzzle, making sure when the shifter was done that first gear was still "up and to the right."
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
|
|
|
liftarn
|
| posted on 1/5/06 at 02:08 PM |
|
|
Tricky. I think I'll have to go around the engine instead.
|
|
|
kb58
|
| posted on 1/5/06 at 02:44 PM |
|
|
As long as you give the cables large bend radiuss it's be fine.
I worked out the shift mechanism on paper before building it. Oh and also have on hand the motion required for the various gears at the transmission
end.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
|
|
|
liftarn
|
| posted on 1/5/06 at 06:53 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by kb58
As long as you give the cables large bend radiuss it's be fine.
Cables certainly sound easier than trying to make a mechanical linkage.
|
|
|
kb58
|
| posted on 1/5/06 at 08:18 PM |
|
|
I'd prefer rods but in my application I was using a FWD lump in the back, the original shift locations are behind the engine and
"pointing" to the left, so there was no straight shot.
OTOH if I had used an in-line 4-cylinder and VW transaxle, a rod shifter would work perfectly.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 13/5/06 at 02:29 PM |
|
|
I used a combination of rods & cables in my middy. The 8mm rods went from the Sierra gear stick and connected to the Sierra cables via a bell
crank assembly (at the end of the tunnel) to reverse the movements. The cables then swoop under the transaxle and onto the standard link
connectors.
The end result is a very quick action with much less slack than using cables all the way.
[Edited on 13-5-06 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
kb58
|
| posted on 14/5/06 at 04:31 PM |
|
|
Except now there are six points for additional play in the system: the pivots on the ends of the cable attached to the bellcranks, the bell-crank
pivots, and the pivots on the end of the rods. It's also more parts, heavier, and probably more expensive.
That said, I agree rods are better; it's getting them around corners without adding play that's the trick.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 14/5/06 at 09:19 PM |
|
|
Actually I found there was less play in the rod & cable setup. My first try was using cable to cable (still on the bell crank though) and the
action was really sloppy, possibly due to cable stretch over the 2.5 metre run. The rods took out the sloppiness and I'm really impressed with
the resulting action. Using rose joints on the bell crank helped too.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
