Maradona
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posted on 6/9/06 at 05:07 PM |
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nose cone atachment
How can I atach the nose cone, any ideas.
Cheers
Maradona
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nick205
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posted on 6/9/06 at 05:14 PM |
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bolts through the return flange of the nosecone into rivnuts in the top chassis rails
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Humbug
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posted on 6/9/06 at 05:17 PM |
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I don't have a rivnut tool so I have bolts through the top side rails, plus a bolt underneath the goes into a tab from the bottom front rail.
Other have put hinges underneath
[Edited on 06.09.2006 by Humbug]
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Maradona
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posted on 6/9/06 at 05:25 PM |
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Any pics ??
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Maradona
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posted on 6/9/06 at 06:17 PM |
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Phone number
If U have serius intentions I can give the number of one of my sisters in my avatar.
Cheers
Maradona
the hand of good
[Edited on 6/9/06 by Maradona]
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Guinness
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posted on 6/9/06 at 06:35 PM |
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I have a bolt on each side, through the return on the fibreglass into a rivnut on the top rail of the chassis and a pair of hinges on the underside of
the front rail / back of the nose.
Hinge Indy Nose
Allows me to hinge it forward for maintanence.
Hope that helps.
Mike
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timmy
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posted on 6/9/06 at 09:51 PM |
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I've used Dzus fasteners on mine. 2 under the chin and 2 either side of the rear (where the bonnet will go).
Seems to fit nicely.
The book shows you how to do this IIRC
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shades
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posted on 6/9/06 at 10:47 PM |
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I used 3 dzus fasteners. Also used rivnuts in other places and fitted with the homemade tool shown here:
Homemade rivnut tool
Worked really well...
Thanks
Adrian
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Marcus
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posted on 7/9/06 at 12:11 PM |
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I've done the hinge thing as described above. Makes filling water sooooo much easier. Mine's not fixed at the rear - no need, the bonnet
holds it down.
Marcus
Because kits are for girls!!
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The Doc
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posted on 7/9/06 at 08:28 PM |
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I found the Dzeus fasteners to be a pain in the arse so I chopped the bayonet bits off, kept the countersunk plate and put a nice c/sunk stainless
machine screw into a plate welded to upper chassis rail. This way you don't eat away at the GRP every time you turn the bolt. Lovely result but
a bit pricey!
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