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Author: Subject: Working on the gear change
Alan B

posted on 20/7/08 at 12:57 PM Reply With Quote
Working on the gear change

Some pics of what I did on my gear change...
The cables are standard Honda, terminated on a bracket behind the bulkhead then extended by tubes...pretty self-explantory really.


GC3
GC3



GC2
GC2



gc1
gc1

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Mark Allanson

posted on 20/7/08 at 01:51 PM Reply With Quote
What did you do for the rest of the afternoon?








If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation

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Alan B

posted on 21/7/08 at 12:04 AM Reply With Quote
Cut my grass...
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rumplitter

posted on 21/7/08 at 08:18 AM Reply With Quote
Impressive!

have you any pic's at the gearbox end?





http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/MiniMojoProject.JPG

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Alan B

posted on 21/7/08 at 12:02 PM Reply With Quote
The gearbox end is pretty much standard. but here you go......(yep, washers and split pins not in yet)
GC4
GC4

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TheGecko

posted on 21/7/08 at 12:18 PM Reply With Quote
I'd been intending to get longer cables made for mine (I think that's what Kurt did too) but, gosh that's a nice solution Alan.

Congrats on the progress,

Dominic

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kb58

posted on 21/7/08 at 01:29 PM Reply With Quote
Where's the gas tank going?





Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html

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Alan B

posted on 21/7/08 at 01:51 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by kb58
Where's the gas tank going?


Behind the driver, between the passengers with a metal cover/firewall over it...you can just about see it on my avatar.

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Alan B

posted on 21/7/08 at 01:57 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks, Dominic.

I did look at and actually buy longer cables, which would need adapting at each end...so thinking was if had to design a shifter mechanism (because I did not want to use the Honda item) I may as well just keep the standard cables and extend with rods. As much as can be tested so far it seems quite positive.

Alan

quote:
Originally posted by TheGecko
I'd been intending to get longer cables made for mine (I think that's what Kurt did too) but, gosh that's a nice solution Alan.

Congrats on the progress,

Dominic

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kb58

posted on 21/7/08 at 03:16 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Alan B
I did look at and actually buy longer cables, which would need adapting at each end...


I just bought cables with threaded ends and screwed on standard rod-ends, with spacers to fit the Honda shifter and tranny.





Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html

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Alan B

posted on 21/7/08 at 03:26 PM Reply With Quote
Yep, simple enough....rod ends are our friends... I definitely could have used longer cables...maybe next time...and you know there'll be a next time..LOL

quote:
Originally posted by kb58
quote:
Originally posted by Alan B
I did look at and actually buy longer cables, which would need adapting at each end...


I just bought cables with threaded ends and screwed on standard rod-ends, with spacers to fit the Honda shifter and tranny.

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sgraber

posted on 21/7/08 at 03:31 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by kb58
quote:
Originally posted by Alan B
I did look at and actually buy longer cables, which would need adapting at each end...


I just bought cables with threaded ends and screwed on standard rod-ends, with spacers to fit the Honda shifter and tranny.


That's very similar to what my intentions are with the Ecotec cables for the 2.2L I have, those are long enough to terminate at the firewall just like yours. I was going to route them underneat the oil pan,then under the fuel cell. Passing them into the cabin through holes drilled in the lower 1.5" chassis cross tube. My thought was to reuse run all-thread up to the GM shifter assy. Yours is very TRICK! I like it!

KB, didn't you have a heck of a time finding cables without slop in the housing? Which ones did you end up using in the end? You solved that problem by purchasing really good cables right?





Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/

"Quickness through lightness"

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Alan B

posted on 21/7/08 at 03:44 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sgraber

..........................That's very similar to what my intentions are with the Ecotec cables for the 2.2L I have, those are long enough to terminate at the firewall just like yours. I was going to route them underneat the oil pan,then under the fuel cell. Passing them into the cabin through holes drilled in the lower 1.5" chassis cross tube. My thought was to reuse run all-thread up to the GM shifter assy. Yours is very TRICK! I like it!

KB, didn't you have a heck of a time finding cables without slop in the housing? Which ones did you end up using in the end? You solved that problem by purchasing really good cables right?


Hey Steve, up until now we managed to get around this issue by using MR2 powertrains.....we knew one day this would have to be addressed.....

[Edited on 21/7/08 by Alan B]

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sgraber

posted on 21/7/08 at 03:46 PM Reply With Quote
Yep! And KB's been there already. The cable quality will have a lot to do with how good the shift feel is. a micron of slop translates to a mile of slop in the shifter at the hand. Or so it would feel.





Steve Graber
http://www.grabercars.com/

"Quickness through lightness"

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Alan B

posted on 21/7/08 at 03:59 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sgraber
Yep! And KB's been there already. The cable quality will have a lot to do with how good the shift feel is. a micron of slop translates to a mile of slop in the shifter at the hand. Or so it would feel.


I'm sure that's true, if not a little exagerated..LOL All I can compare with is my MR2/meerkat set-up and it feels at least as positive as that. The only extra thing I'm going to do is to spring bias the gate into the center position (2-3) as Honda did with their shifter.

Alan

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kb58

posted on 21/7/08 at 07:58 PM Reply With Quote
I ordered them from www.push-pull.com

The place is great to deal with; this is all they do, though being in the states doesn't help many of you. (which is hardly ever true, you people from the Land of Sports Car that I'm so jealous of...)

Yeah the "feature" I didn't care for was that while they're well made, the inner cable, liner, and inner sheath are separate from the outer sheath and wrap. There's a bit of side-to-side motion between them, which is a non-issue if you use the cables without curves... but who does that?

What happens is that every bend it goes around, the inner sheath can shift side-to-side a tiny bit, introducing a small amount of slop into the system.

That said, I guess the human mind's quite adept at relearning things because after about a week I didn't notice it. I'm using something very similar on the next car.

[Edited on 7/23/08 by kb58]





Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html

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Alan B

posted on 23/7/08 at 11:47 AM Reply With Quote
KB...I assume you actually meant....http://www.push-pull.com/
Yep. agreed very useful site...also....http://www.midwestcontrol.com/
seem very good too.....personally I use....http://www.mcmaster.com/
quite a lot.

None of which will help our UK friends...except perhaps midwest who have a UK branch/dealer.

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TheGecko

posted on 23/7/08 at 12:17 PM Reply With Quote
Since we're doing a roll call of suppliers, two Australian possibilities are: Flexible Drive Agencies and
Consolidated Wire


Dominic

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kb58

posted on 23/7/08 at 01:15 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Alan B
KB...I assume you actually meant....[url=http://www.push-pull.com/]

Dang, right... fixed!

And I second using mcmaster. They have nearly anything, even weld-in threaded tube ends!

[Edited on 7/23/08 by kb58]





Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html

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bram boekestein

posted on 8/10/08 at 11:41 AM Reply With Quote
Could you post some dimensions for this:

gc1
gc1


And why do you have those rose joints at the end of the rod's.

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kb58

posted on 8/10/08 at 01:10 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bram boekesteinAnd why do you have those rose joints at the end of the rod's.

They're needed at both ends because if the rods are off any amount it'll bind.





Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html

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