adam1985
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 01:52 PM |
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repairing tin top paintwork
hi all ive recently filled sanded and sprayed a little scratch on my car (tin top) then have clear laquered it. it looked mint couldnt tell but when i
came to clean it it feels abit rough on the sponge and now ive used some autoglym polish on it its gone a bit dull what can i do
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britishtrident
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 02:17 PM |
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Very gentle T Cut then wax polish
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Paul TigerB6
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 02:32 PM |
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Have you polished through the laquer layer unintentionally??
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adam1985
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 03:48 PM |
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i dont know i gave it quite a few coats of laquer making sure it was dry in between have got some of that rubbing compound but aint that for if there
is a slight colour difference it'll fade it in would polishing it with a leccy buffer help
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Hadders
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 04:15 PM |
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There are a number of issues here.
Is the surafce rough to touch like sandpaper or heavily pitted? Did you flat back you last coat of lacquer with 2000 W&D? If the former then its
application/ drying problem. If the latter then its likley to be heavy orange peel and you can flat and compound back to a shine. How many coats did
you apply?
If you have access to a mop then use it with proper compound (Farecla G3 /G10 or Autoglym 03B/02B). You can't get the correct finish by hand.
Dullness. This is usually caused by not drying clearcoat correctly (moisture retention ' blooming) Surface will be shiny but a little dull -
flat and compound by machine to sort.
or by not compounding enough ie. by hand not machine. Surface is regular matt finish with fine scratches. Compound by machine to sort.
Flatting too far and going through to basecoat will show as rings where the clearcoat finishes and the dull basecoat shows through. However, with this
you would have a flat surface not a rough one.
Do not use T Cut whatever you do. Its like using a hand full of bricks compared to a handful of fine sand with proper compounding liquids. It will
wreck your fresh clearcoat.
Remember when machine polishing, start with proper compound on mop. Dampen mop head. Lowest speed setting no pressure, just weigth of machine and
importantly keep it moving at all times or you'll burn through.
HTH
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adam1985
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 04:23 PM |
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i have got one of the cheapo chalange buffers will this be up to the job do you think
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Hadders
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 04:27 PM |
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Not really. You could try it but don't think you will have enough control. A mop is actually a large angle grinder with a sponge head on it and
the ability to change the speed settings. The buffers are really only for applying wax.
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adam1985
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 05:07 PM |
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right ive got a makita angle drill i use for drilling joists i can vary the speed on it ill have to get a head to fit that then what sort am i best
going for like a sponge head or a soft one ?
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Hadders
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 06:32 PM |
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The heads are a dense foam that velcros onto a plastic backing disc. These are threaded to go on a angle grinder. You may be able to find one with a
drill chuck attachment, but its not what we use in the trade so not sure.
There are a few paint and smart repair product sellers on Ebay. Otherwise your local branch of Morellis or Brown Brothers will have all the trade
stuff.
HTH
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adam1985
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| posted on 3/9/08 at 07:47 PM |
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ok will try that cheers mate
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splitrivet
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| posted on 4/9/08 at 09:08 AM |
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Ive got a compounding machine if you want to use it Adam.
Cheers,
Bob
I used to be a Werewolf but I'm alright nowwoooooooooooooo
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