Dangle_kt
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| posted on 11/10/08 at 10:19 PM |
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AB elecrtic reverse
Hi guys,
I'm going to splash some cash next month and get the prop bought for my blade build, but before I do I need to know if it will be future
proof.
To explain:
I want to get the prop asap, in an aim to get the car finished before april, which will mean it won't need an electric reverse. But say I failed
to get it done in time, can an AB electric reverse be retro fitted WITHOUT having to rebuy the prop.
TRT prop is the way I want to go, but I'm loathed to spend best part of £400 and then have to bin it if I miss the deadline.
Also does anyone have pics of an AB reverse and a rough idea on a price? Just doing my homework before calling him as I'm hoping I can get away
without one...
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Peteff
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| posted on 11/10/08 at 10:35 PM |
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He posts on here, don't you think he might see this ? I think your best bet would be to get your finger out. 
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 11/10/08 at 10:38 PM |
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ok, well forget the price bit then. 
But the rest still stands - anyone with an electric reverse care to comment?
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andrew.carwithen
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| posted on 12/10/08 at 06:45 AM |
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I believe the AB reverse sits in the transmission tunnel - though unsure where the ringear is located - maybe between rear prop flange and diff
flange?
BEC props are two-piece with a centre bearing and will come with either a sliding front or rear section to take up any movement in
suspension/transmission and any discrepancies in prop length.
My prop has a sliding front section and hence when I retro-fitted my engine mounted electric reverse,this allowed me to fit the ringear between front
prop flange and prop adaptor.
A sliding rear section would therefore similarly allow a ringear to be sandwiched between rear flange and diff.
Talk to Andy Bates and he'll advise on what prop type you'll need if you are going to fit his reverse unit.
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Hadders
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| posted on 12/10/08 at 06:16 PM |
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Andrew has it spot on. Ring gear is machined to fit the input flange on the dff and you fabricate your own brackets to mount the motor in the tunnel
at the diff end. Above or below. Nice bit of kit. Think it was £300 odd pounds inlcuding ally operating lever with button, relay and all wiring.
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