Hi all.
I got my first MK on Saturday. After a few good test drives I've found the car a little unpredictable on bumpy back roads.
I don't think the geometry or shocks have been set up correctly. Can anyone offer me some advice on setiimg for the geo and where the shocks
should be set
My set up is
2002, 900cc Bec
Protech shocks
195 45 15
I called my local alignment center and the said I'd need to supply the camber/toe etc settings and they will adjust to that
Thanks
[Edited on 7/4/16 by flanders]
Here are my settings from when i had an indy
My front is 1.75 neg camber and 1.92 mm toe in at the rims, castor 4.125 LH and 3.75 RH (non adjustable wishbones for castor)
The rear is 0.8 neg camber, 1.45 mm toe in at rims with shims.
As near as damn it 50/50 weight and 493.5Kg full of all fluids.
This was done profesionally and to my needs which may be different to yours but it is a setup for road/track use with consideration taken for 2 up.
Presuming you've tried softening the shocks?
Also what tyre pressures are you running?
My advice would be check for bump steer first. For me this had the biggest impact on my car on bumpy roads.
Next modify the front wishbones to get more caster.
Set front toe in at 0.5 degrees and check rear is 0.5 as well.
Set corner weights.
I'd also get rid of the big wheels and get some 13" wheels.
Stu
My advice would be to soften the damping as well. Try 4 clicks from fully soft
Thanks guys. It is suffering from bump steer. Running 15psi all round.
Ok so set the suspension softer all round? It's pretty hard at the moment
Yeah try softening the dampers is a pretty easy start point.
What height are you running the suspension at,chassis to floor?
Should be running slightly higher on the rear end.
Problem with bump steer is it will probably require chassis mods to get rid of it.
If you look from the front are the track rods running level with the wishbones,or on a angle?
[Edited on 7/4/16 by CosKev3]
I'll check all of the tomorrow and report back bud, cheers
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Problem with bump steer is it will probably require chassis mods to get rid of it.
[Edited on 7/4/16 by CosKev3]
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Problem with bump steer is it will probably require chassis mods to get rid of it.
[Edited on 7/4/16 by CosKev3]
Should be simpler than that hopefully; you may need to space the rack away from the mounting using some washers/spacers, but you will first need to be able to measure the bump steer to be able to adjust. A normal wheel alignment place will probably not be able to do this.
Linky might help:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=72494
Dan
[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]
[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Problem with bump steer is it will probably require chassis mods to get rid of it.
[Edited on 7/4/16 by CosKev3]
Should be simpler than that hopefully; you may need to space the rack away from the mounting using some washers/spacers, but you will first need to be able to measure the bump steer to be able to adjust. A normal wheel alignment place will probably not be able to do this.
Linky might help:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=72494
Dan
[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]
[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]
Spacing is ok if the rack is too low,but mine and other seven type cars I've looked at need the rack lowering.
[Edited on 8/4/16 by CosKev3]
I don't recall the specific settings from my MK Indy, but I can recall setting up some rear toe in, which helped a lot with cornering. I did
this with shim washers between the rear hub carriers and rear uprights. I also experimented with tyre pressure on similar size wheels and tyres. I
found around 17 psi front and rear gave the best handling and bump absorbtion characteristics.
They're good cars, but do benefit from a good setup being applied. I'd suggest contacting MK themselves - I suspect they'll give you
recommended setup figures to apply.
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Problem with bump steer is it will probably require chassis mods to get rid of it.
[Edited on 7/4/16 by CosKev3]
Should be simpler than that hopefully; you may need to space the rack away from the mounting using some washers/spacers, but you will first need to be able to measure the bump steer to be able to adjust. A normal wheel alignment place will probably not be able to do this.
Links might help:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=18211
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=42105
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=72494
Dan
[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]
Pretty sure it's toe in you want?
Ref the rear if it's not adjustable for toe it's quite a job to shim/space the uprights to get it adjusted if your paying someone to do
it.
Don't expect to get it done included in the 4 wheel alignment price!! 
Also there is a good chance to adjust your camber you will need the suspension joints splitting to adjust it,again most places won't include this
in the 4 wheel alignment price.
Toe IN! my bad
thanks bud.
yeah i know some places don't like splitting ball joints etc
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
quote:
Originally posted by CosKev3
Problem with bump steer is it will probably require chassis mods to get rid of it.
[Edited on 7/4/16 by CosKev3]
Should be simpler than that hopefully; you may need to space the rack away from the mounting using some washers/spacers, but you will first need to be able to measure the bump steer to be able to adjust. A normal wheel alignment place will probably not be able to do this.
Linky might help:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=72494
Dan
[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]
[Edited on 8/4/16 by Bluemoon]
Spacing is ok if the rack is too low,but mine and other seven type cars I've looked at need the rack lowering.
[Edited on 8/4/16 by CosKev3]
Yes, but the MK Indy was supposedly built with this in mind, hence the modified rack to match the suspension geometry. My sample of 1 Indy is a bit small could believe others may be different, not so sure about the new indy type R chassis or what ever it's called. Best thing is to measure up what you have first.
Should the rack/ends all be level then? Ie No angle at rest?
Should the rack/ends all be level then? Ie No angle at rest?
My understanding is that the track rods should be level at rest and the inner ball joint should be in line with the inner pivot point of the lower
front wishbones. On my MK Indy MK supplied a narrowed Sierra steering rack to achieve this (exchanged with my normal Sierra rack). In this way you
minimise bump steer when travelling along. From memory on the Indy chassis there is some small adjustment provided (slotted bolt holes) for the rack
to get it straight, but no vertical or horizontal adjustment to speak of. In my view it's worth some fiddling to get the best setup you can
before taking it to be measured.
For rear toe in there is no built in adjustment on the Indy (unless you have fancy wishbones) hence the adjustment I made with shim washers. As I
recall the shim washers were bought online and quite cheap. It was however quite a bit of work to calculate and make the required fitting. A
noticeable benefit in handling though and apart from my time very cheap to do.
ETA...some shim washer sources...
https://www.springmasters.com/sp/shims-support-washers.html
http://www.pts-uk.com/Products/Washers_DIN_988_Shim_Washers
[Edited on 8/4/16 by nick205]
What nick says is my understanding of it.
Although even with the shortened rack that MK/Mac1 supply the inner pivot is not bang on in line with the lower wishbone mount points.
I wasn't so scientific with my bump steer adjustments.
I disconnected the shock and drew a vertical line on the garage wall. With a last pointer on the disc I spaced the rack mounting with washers until
the laser tracked the vertical line as closely as I could get it.
This made a massive difference and the car went from feeling like it wanted to tip me into a ditch every time I hit a manhole to tracking straight and
feeling very stable however bumpy things got.
Stu
quote:
Originally posted by SJ
I wasn't so scientific with my bump steer adjustments.
I disconnected the shock and drew a vertical line on the garage wall. With a last pointer on the disc I spaced the rack mounting with washers until the laser tracked the vertical line as closely as I could get it.
This made a massive difference and the car went from feeling like it wanted to tip me into a ditch every time I hit a manhole to tracking straight and feeling very stable however bumpy things got.
Stu
I made a jig for my rear lower wishbones then cut the inner bushers off and put in Kevlar rose joint so could set the toe. Got pics if anyone what's to see them if use are thinking doing the same.