Hello fellow BECers (messed up my old login it seems, but wasn't exactly a regular, so a newbie hello is in order).

Regular topic I know...

Running a Stuart Taylor GXR1000 in a Cateringvan. Dry Sump and Oil cooler as per his race cars.

Have blanked off all of the oilcooler after some initial runs in winter as it wasn't getting up to temperature. I am now getting, once nicely warmed up (ahem)...

89C Water Temperature. Which seems fair. STM ran an "always on" water pump so it was overcooling without the blanking. Hopefully it will be OK in the summer when removed ?

74C Oil Temperature. Which seems low but is at the bottom of the DS tank, which is at the far end of the engine bay from the cooler so more cooling there. So this is the temperature it is going into the engine at. Does that seem fair ?

Once warm, at idle, the Oil pressure (in DS pan) is about 7psi. Rises immediately with revs. And is good pressure when pressing on. I know the BECS can run low at idle it seems, but does this seem fair for the set up and oil temps ?

Thanks

Different set up I know but my old BEC K4 GSXR1000 was running about 3psi on idle. I was a little worried about this and phoned around for advice.

Andy at AB said that seems low and will not float the main shells.
Cresent Suzuki (main BTCC supporter) said that the pressure is as expected and fine.

The bottom line they both said was to do an oils change and look for metal in the oil. I did this and it was as clean as a whistle so was not concerned with the low pressure. By the way the 3psi was when hot and was around 7psi cold IIRC.

oil temp sound a bit on the low side... can you block off the oil cooler better ?

pressure when warm/hot and idle will not be good.... i always blip the throttle when warm coming back into pits etc.. and woudl never leave to sit and idle - in reality they should be fine... but it just makes sense to have better oil pressure if you can (by simply revving it a little)

oil pressure when cool/cold on start up should be high ? that's more what i'd be concerned about - and also that its holding good pressure when on circuit at revs above say 5K

i have a K5 with dry sump also... there is a mod that guys do to the clutch actuator rod to help oil flow to the clutch - essentially i think its just skimming/grinding a bit flat to help oil flow through... not sure how necessary it is - but seems to be a common mod.

I have a 1300 Busa engine (Westfield) and my other car has a Ford Sigma (Sylva J15). Both are designed using Bike technology (don't know if that is relevant Sigma = Yamaha). When hot both have below 1Bar pres on tick over. The Sigma has new end shells. I think the Sigma fitted to a J15 at the rear does not get enough cooling for the oil. Must try fitting a cooler to the Sigma the Busa has an oil cooler already but needs better air flow. As the temperature climbs the pressure definitely drops quite significantly. On a hot track day 0.3 bar on the Busa sounds familiar when in the pits ticking over. When out on the tack the resting pressure is higher as more air flow over cooler.

Thanks !

There do seem to be multiple schools of thought, which are reflected here. May try to insulate the DS tank a little too.