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Wishbone bushes - I know, it's been done to death, but....
Steve Lovelock - 3/12/09 at 06:51 PM

So I am just refitting my wishbones to the front of the Luego and I wanted to check a detail out with you. I know that the rubber / plastic bushes need to be shaved down before fitting and have done that. Do I do the bolts up tight so that the bar that runs through the bushes is held in position? I have done this and the wishbones move complete with the bushes and pivot on the bar; it's a very stiff movement though. Is this correct?


r1_pete - 3/12/09 at 06:55 PM

Yes, that is the purpose of the crush tube, to give you something to torque up against without deforming the mounts.

The bushes will generally move as you say, but the movement on the road isn't that great.


rusty nuts - 3/12/09 at 07:22 PM

The bolt should be tight so that the crush tube is clamped BUT the arm needs to be able to rotate around the crush tube easily. I found the best way was to clamp the assembled bush /arm /crush tube in a vice when testing which is quicker than refitting the arm to the car (ask Geoff) Seems to be better if the clamped assembly rotates from horizontal under it's own weight. Final assembly was done using rubber grease( from my local motor factors.) HTH Mel


BigFaceDave - 3/12/09 at 07:42 PM

Does anyone know of the correct size crush tube? I heard read somewhere on here that the crush tubes are too short, would it not be better to get crush tubes the right size? does anyone know what the exact size of the tube is or its length? I also need to know as im about to fit my wish bones but need to take the bushes out first to paint them so while I have them out I could replace the crush tubes. P.S. Anyone got any tips on how to get the crush tube out of the bushes?


twybrow - 3/12/09 at 07:43 PM

What's the tool/technique to use to shave down the bushes? I would guess a lathe ideally, but what if you have them fitted already and/or you don't have a lathe?


rusty nuts - 3/12/09 at 08:55 PM

I used a lathe when I did mine , just inserted the crush tube into the bush and placed in the chuck . If I was doing it again I would reduce the width of the wishbone "eye" which wouldn't weaken the wishbone too much but could give a very slight increase in castor, the reason I didn't was because I didn't want to damge the powder coating


ReMan - 3/12/09 at 08:56 PM

The other option of course is to fit a shim washer to effectivly lengthen the crush tube


tomgregory2000 - 3/12/09 at 10:12 PM

Ive fitted shims to my front bones and sanded down the poly bush (works well with a power sander) on the rears as there is not enough space in the brackets on the car


Paul (Notts) - 4/12/09 at 07:12 AM

As above..shims on the front , power sander on the rears..+ lots of grease

Paul


Irony - 4/12/09 at 08:28 AM

I was actually doing this job last night, just finishing off the last wishbone. I sanded a millimeter or so off each bush and greased using some rubber grease bought from Maplins. The job makes sense when you think about it and I clamped each bush in the vice and made sure it rotated under its own wait.

As for getting the bushed out I used the vice as a press. I put a 22mm socket one one side and a socket the same diameter as the crush tube on the other and then pressed the crush tube out.

I was surprised about the stiffness of getting the crushtubes out etc. I had them out a few months ago and a film of rust has formed on the crush tube in this short time effective seizing the crush tubes in. I think the new rubber grease will help but I hope this doesnt happen again.


wilkingj - 4/12/09 at 09:27 AM

Use something like Silicone rubber grease, or brake rubber grease. Wheel bearing grease is not the best of greases for plastics and rubber.
And only put it on the crush tube, not in the wishbone eye. ie lube the bush to crush tube surface and the end of the bush.

I got a tube of SRG from Maplins for about £3. Its difficult to find on their website, but the shops have it. Website only seems to show the cans of spray.

Agree with all that Rusty Nuts says.
Also testing in a vice is MUCH quicker than fitting to the car.... I didnt think of that untill Rusty told me how he had done it!

The Bolts MUST be done up TIGHT.
Or the Bolt will twist, and wear the holes in the brackets oval, thus they will alter the steering and suspension geometry.
It will also fail an MoT if it gets bad, requiring the replacement of all the U brackets.
Or it will wear the bolt down and become a failure point.
The Bolt Holds the Tube Firm, the (replaceable) Tube forms the bearing with the bush.
Bolts are Securing devices, NOT Hinge Pins!