Can anyone help me with a couple of questions to do with the brakes?

Firstly, I have secured the front and rear 3 way couplings (actually, the front one is 4 way if you include the sensor) using rivet nuts and a bolt. I am now wondering if the SVA will require that lock nuts are used in which case should I have drilled all the way through the chassis and secured longer bolts from the other side with lock nuts?

Second, like many people these days, I sourced my hubs and brake callipers from the scrap yard and e-bay rather than off a running donor. Is there a way of testing the brake calliper pistons without assembling them onto the car first. Basically, I don't want to waste a lot of effort cleaning the rust off, painting them, securing them to the car and pressurising the system only to find that they don't work.

Your thoughts and advice would be appreciated

To be 100% sure the inspector can't find fault just make up a locking tab from some sheet metal. The use of Loctite and similar products is also an approved locking method.

You can't really properly test calipers without fitting them but check the pistons move ok is easy enough to do, however I would very strongly advise fitting a new set of seals. This would also give you the chance to fully strip the calipers and de-rust them.

Remember when working on brakes any mineral oil (including WD40) anywhere near the seals will eventuall cause the seals to go hard.

I would be quite happy with your method of securing the couplings.

If you are not experienced enough to work out if the calipers are ok then don't mess with them. Don't waste effort cleaning them. just trade them in for reconditioned ones - They are cheap enough and one of the major safety items on the car.

Cheers

Mark

i used a rivnut in the chassie and just bolted in to it

as for testing the calipers if you get a blow gun in the hole wear the brake pipe fits pop the pistons out you can then clean the pistons up or see how coroded they are and make a desisition to clean up or replace if they are to far gone most motor factors will take old units as a sercharge to bring the price down on a recoditioned unit

All my brake unions are secured to the chassis with rivnuts and bolts with plain washers and sailed through SVA without issue. I did use plated HT8.8 bolts rather than stainless though - whilst the unions aren't structural I didn't want to get pulled up for not having HT bolts in the braking system - was probably over cautious......

Simon

Me too... Rivnuts in the chassis and a bolt.

Worked for me as well. Check out your local motor factors for the calipers

and me - put a dab of locktight on before doing up - hasn't moved in three years...

IIRC - I needed a fatter copper washer between the low pressure switch and the four way union as it was bottoming out in the threads before - worth a check...