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Viento headlight brackets + engineering issue
Irony - 12/1/12 at 02:35 PM

I am going to get some headlight brackets made for my Viento and I am unsure of design and sizes. I really like the look of this design and they are simple to get manufactured. Cheers to the owner of this nice car for letting me take the picture. I sure he won't too much if I borrow his idea




I am however mildly worried about rivnutting straight into the chassis so close to the suspension brackets. When you put in a M6 rivnut you have to drill a 8mm hole. A 8mm hole in such a critical strut worries me. However I am not a engineer so I'd like to know what you guys think of this?? I am probably worrying over nothing


My car at the moment is up on trestles and I don't know how high the headlight bracket needs to be to conform to the IVA regulations. Could somebody measure their Viento when it's sitting on the ground so I can get a firm measurement of how high the car sits off the ground. Say from the floor to the top front suspension mount (centre of bolt to floor would be ideal)


Cheers guys!


designer - 12/1/12 at 03:34 PM

Why not weld to the top rail?


jollygreengiant - 12/1/12 at 04:39 PM

So long as you have the mounting plane of the headlamp no lower than the top of the cut out loop (that is there to take the original Luego headlamp mounting bracket) in the nose cone edge that sits on top of the front rail you will bee fine with the head lamps mounted above that level.

As for the style of head lamp bracket, I'm sure that Percy and her Father Pete would not mind you using their bracket as design Idea. As for any questions about the bracket and mounting just send them a U2U with any questions.

Oh, and, I cant measure mine at the mo as its up on axle stands.


loggyboy - 12/1/12 at 04:48 PM

Drill a 5mm hole on both sides of the chassis rail and shove a 40-50mm bolt through instead of rivnuting.


Irony - 12/1/12 at 05:10 PM

quote:
Originally posted by designer
Why not weld to the top rail?



That would be nice but I have no skill at welding and no welding facilities!


Irony - 12/1/12 at 05:13 PM

Thanks JGG I could remember their names. I find there U2U. Of course the cut out in the nose cone gives me the height of the bracket as the Luego has no rise in the bracket.


rusty nuts - 12/1/12 at 08:36 PM

quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
Drill a 5mm hole on both sides of the chassis rail and shove a 40-50mm bolt through instead of rivnuting.


A quick way to crush the chassis box section! If you need to bolt through a chassis or box section then drill a larger hole on one side a use a length of thick walled tube as a crush tube, that way you can tighten the bolts without any fear of crushing the box section


loggyboy - 14/1/12 at 11:20 PM

quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
Drill a 5mm hole on both sides of the chassis rail and shove a 40-50mm bolt through instead of rivnuting.


A quick way to crush the chassis box section! If you need to bolt through a chassis or box section then drill a larger hole on one side a use a length of thick walled tube as a crush tube, that way you can tighten the bolts without any fear of crushing the box section


Its only carrying a bracket and a light (or 2) and the load isnt under any major stresses that mean the bolt needs to be so tight that it would crush a box section!


rusty nuts - 15/1/12 at 10:09 AM

How long before the weight bouncing about causes the chassis to distort thereby allowing the bolt to effectivly become loose? just shoving a 50mm bolt through without a crush tube is bad engineering


wilkingj - 15/1/12 at 11:08 AM

quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
How long before the weight bouncing about causes the chassis to distort thereby allowing the bolt to effectivly become loose? just shoving a 50mm bolt through without a crush tube is bad engineering


+1

Dont weaken you car any more than you have to. Do things correctly. It will pay in the long run with a better constructed and generally safer car.
Its hardly any extra work at all.