I bought her last week and I'm in the process of ironing out some niggles most which I have done but I currently can't get full beam to work! I was hope my the builder mayof used this site or somebody know of him or the car?

I really don't want to give in to a auto sparky buy I'm gonna my round in circles not really knowing what I'm at!

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Hi and welcome to the forum
perhaps you can give a bit more info as to what yoiu,ve done and tested, whereabouts you are, the spec of the car and whether its IVA'd/mot already?

Hi and thanks for the welcome, the car is currently mot'd and was iva'd in 2009, it has a locost chassis built by robin hood in 2006, as for the wiring it looks to be made up from parts from cbs, I currently have all lights but no main beam as soon as you attempt to use main or flash it pops the fuse, I haven't really tested anything as I'm pretty clueless when it come to electrics, I'm going to remove all lights and holders tomorrow and see if it still pops but knowing my luck it will be a lot more complicated than that! I have figured out I have two relays under the dash which control dipped and main when I got the car one of the connectors was disconnected from a twin connector on one of the pins, when I connected it I had nothing I swapped a blue wire on to a single pin and put a white and blue on the twin connector and the fuse started popping so I'm assuming this is now the correct way as I'm now getting power but something else is blowing the fuse?

Sorry for being vague but I'm completely new to kit cars!

I'm based in Oxfordshire

I know you have just mentioned your location but bung it in your avatar area so it does not get lost in future posts.

Pulling individual bulbs out is a good start but may not point you to the answer.

Things to check:

- The switch is wired correctly (what is it? Sierra stalk, separate toggles)
- The relays are wired correctly, they will be running in series so easy to get lost
- The supply wire to the headlamps are not pinched and shorting to a dead earth
- The bulbs are the correct fitment and fitted in the correct orientation.

Post back your findings and we will try and get it fixed. Shame your not more local, I may of come to your rescue.

Good luck and happy driving. You dont need high beam for a good early morning blat!!

So it's a locust / RH not a Luego locust?
Never mind

Lets assume then that as you say it has been mot'd recently, that there should not be a fundamental issue wit the wiring and that main beam worked for the MOT

In which case leads assume that its a fail that has developed.
This could be anything from a blown bulb that now has an internal short, to some part of the wiring that has now failed/chafed /shorted to earth to cause this problem.

I'd say make suer that EVERTHING else works OK and if it really is just a main beam issue than this should new fairly narrow a search

Inspecta all the lamps ands lampholders and as you say, pull them out and see if it still blows the fuse.
An obvious place to chafe is through the bottom of the headlights, but the internals of the rear lights can also corrode and cause issuers.

Thats a start, better still a friend/ member closer to home with a bit of electrical knowledge will soon sort it

Not me

Yeh it's a robin hood locust built chassis... There's been major confusion to weather it was a ringer on the R/H site but after deep investigation with one of the admins we got to the bottom of it and it's all legit.

It was mot'd 7 months ago so I assume they must have been working for the mot then?

I wasn't sure if the relay was wired correctly, if the relay was wired incorrectly would the fuse still blow as how it was wired before I had absolutely nothing when I swapped the wired it started blowing the fuse which lead me to be love it was now the correct way as I'm now getting power there but something else is causing the fuse issue?

[Edited on 9/6/14 by b3nny]

I would put the wiring back to the way it was first as you could have added a fault when swapping. It's unlikely to be the rear light fittings as you say they work in dip. You say you now have power but how do you know if the fuse pops ? Assuming there are separate fuses for main and dips is the mains fuse the correct rating ? I would guess 15A.

There are seperate fuses just after the relay these are 10amp but these done seem to pop it's only the 15amp on the main fuse board that pops when trying to flash or use main beam.

I'm using the CBS stalk with all controls (indicators main,dipped and horn if it makes and difference?)

If the builder followed the standard Lucas colour code. (which is possible, but not certain ) the blue with white tracer is the feed to the main beam . The dip beam should be Blue with red tracer. The solid blue should be the feed from the lighting side/heads switch to the main/dips changeover switch.

quote:

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Originally posted by Macbeast
If the builder followed the standard Lucas colour code. (which is possible, but not certain ) the blue with white tracer is the feed to the main beam . The dip beam should be Blue with red tracer. The solid blue should be the feed from the lighting side/heads switch to the main/dips changeover switch.

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