How do you adjust the bias bar?
sorry if it is simple..
and can you only judge the working when their is oil in the circuit???
TKS
I set mine so that it had more leverage on the front circuit then at pre SVA MOT test we set the balance. At SVA, the man said it was spot on. You
can then play with it on the track / road to suit yourself.
Worth noting that it must be locked for SVA and not capable of changing.
i asked how to set it....
is it a matter of just moving the "bubble" more or less to one side??
or wat???
what kind of thread use the master cilinders... on the pushrod???
it looks like M8 but it locks after 1,5 turn...
TKS
[Edited on 2/3/05 by tks]
Think the threads are 5/16 unf on mine and the brakes need to be bled and adjusted and the car raised with the wheels off the floor adjust the balance bar until the front wheels lock just before the rears
think were missing the point tks wants to know what to move i.e. the bar left to right or the slave cylinder bars in and out
Must admit i'm not 100% sure as well so would like to know too.
As far as i can gather, you thread the master cylinder push rods in or out to adjust, but please correct me if im wrong ??
Also, fitted my pedal box today and did anyone else have to grind the tube away a bit to get the spherical bearing in the brake pedal ? my tube was
about 1mm dia less than the spherical bearing.
i thought you just adjusted the threaded bar from left to right, which in turn moves the internal sleeve / fulcrum bush, which in turn applies more /
less leverage from one side to the other.
would be ueful for some feedback from luago on this one as its not that clear in the manual - come on guys help us out.
also has anyone used a dirrerent locking method than drilling and pinniing the nuts - i wondered if sva would pass a second slim locking nut ?
a friend of mine who rallies thought there should be a remote adjuster fitment to go on the end of the spindle, with a flexible link to an adjuster in
the cab - thus you could adjust whilst on the track / road ?? - anyone seen this or is he talking out of his ar_e
RichyB is correct.
Both master cylinder push rods should be screwed fully in and then locked.
Also ensure that you fit them the correct way round as they are different sizes.
Clive
quote:
a friend of mine who rallies thought there should be a remote adjuster fitment to go on the end of the spindle, with a flexible link to an adjuster in the cab - thus you could adjust whilst on the track / road ?? - anyone seen this or is he talking out of his ar_e
I've drilled and tapped the "trunnions" that the bias bar screws into from the top and inserted a grub screw into each of them. Don't yet know if this method is O.K. for S.V.A. so will be taking cordless drill and roll pins just in case. Will post answer after test?
Whats wrong with double nuts and a locking plate between the nuts with bend over tabs on it ?
Its what holds all 4 wheels on my Land rover!
Hi Guys
don't think we ever really got to the bottom of this one does any one know how to setup the bias up? some pics would be even better
Cheers
Here's some info for setting the bias bar
And info for locking the bias bar for SVA, this is from the SVA manual
[Edited on 26/8/05 by wicket]
Rescued attachment SVA_16.jpg