Well Its been a WONDERFUL week of.
Removed pedal bracket ass. Removed cable clutch pedal and replaced with hydraulic pedal and pivot pin. Refitted pedal ass. Fitted clutch master
cylinder and Connected up all cylinder rods, adjusted & locknutted.
Swapped 5 stud rear drive flanges down to 4 stud drive flanges, fitted discs, caliper carriers, pads, calipers & connected flexy hoses at rear.
Adjusted/rebated front of gearbox mounting plate.
Adjusted position of engine, Cut engine mounting plate plates. Cut tube & adjusted to fit between plates.
Cut steering dop link. Found problem. Corrected problem (see earlier post) cut new part, cut extension tube to suit & fettled.
Fitted Front discs, caliper carriers & calipers.
Welded up engine mounts, Welded steering extension. Painted mounts & extension. Fitted mounts & extension.
Took lots of Photos (OK 8 photo's) and added them to my archive. Between start & finish I drank 20 bottles of Grolsch , hung up my
CTAutoparts calender (February is VERY pleasing) & had a really good clean out of the Garage. I can almost see the floor now.
Ho hum back to work on Monday.
Hope the missus approves of the calender
How do you work around the lower chassis tube being between the pedals and the master cylinders? Doesn't that tube get in the way? I'm
trying to figure the best way around that now.
Thanks,
Shaun
Nice one!!
Ready for Newark this year??
Rich.
quote:
Originally posted by smdl
How do you work around the lower chassis tube being between the pedals and the master cylinders? Doesn't that tube get in the way? I'm trying to figure the best way around that now.
Thanks,
Shaun
And from engine bay side.
Cylinders sit above the lower rail.
quote:
Originally posted by richard thomas
Nice one!!
Ready for Newark this year??
Rich.
Thanks -- my pedals pivot lower than yours, and the master cylinders are designed to attach directly to the pedal box. I'll have to either raise
the pedals up, or find some clearance for the masters.
Sorry to hijack your thread. Again, Nice work!
Shaun