Should be picking up my Viento exhaust system from Dean (Luego) at the end of next week - Any Advice on fitting it..?

Thanks

Paul.

I wish I had fitted the exhaust before the side panels and measured up. Then cut the panels and fitted them.

Just measure really carefully. Also test the size of hole on a bit of scrap ally FIRST, so you can get the exhaust flange through the hole easily, and have a template for the hole size. Its a bit tight with the diagonal chassis tube. ie needs a wiggle to get the header flange through.

Not that difficult, but take care to measure up.

Also remember that the pipes exit in different places on the sides longitudinally. Due to the cylinder offset. ie Cylinder 1 is slightly further forward to Cylinder 2 on the other side.

Look carefully... you'll see what I mean.

Take your time..

Its a lot of work to put right if you rush it and get it wrong.

just be very carefull, you have to move them around slightly so it's easy to catch and mark the engine bay powder coating (as I did ) Just had to spend a bit of time re-covering that's all.

Seems your catching me up!!

I am building rover V8 and just been to see Dean- same problem, no template avaialbe so when I get mine - end of summer when I have saved enough (£1000 cost) I will do same. He told me also not to bolt engine in position as its a bugger to get the brackets on side to align. So not a job I am looking forward to.

Dont fit the sides either.. Fit the exhaust without the sides, then you can measure up where it all sits. THEN, fit the sides and cut the holes, you will be able to cut more accurately.

Also dont forget they do not exit the sides exactly equally, due to the cylinder offset.

With the sides fitted its a lot harder as you dont know exactly where the pipes will exit, as you cant fit them with the sides on and no holes in the sides.
Chicken and Egg job.

EDIT:
There will probably never be a template, as it will depend on how far back you fit the engine, and how high.
Have a look in my Archives, there are several photos of the engine position.

I have a LT77 box, so it will also depend on what box you have. ie LT77, B&W T5, Ford Type 9, etc ie affects the position of the engine / exhaust ports.


[Edited on 24/3/2007 by wilkingj]

I am having a problem with the exhausts on mine in that due to the angle the manifolds come out of the side of the car (on both sides) the silences will not go on without a 2" dogleg in the pipe...

Anyone know anyone who can modify the manifolds for me?

Mark

I fitted mine over this Friday and Saturday. I had already fitted the side panels and had them painted - so double jeopardy......

First job was to smother the sidepanels with a double layer of masking tape. Then I got an engineers square, held it against the exhaust port faces and marked a perpendicular on the top of the sidepanel in line with the outer edges of the forward and rear-most exhaust ports. I then rested a straight edge on the top chassis rail across to the head and got a dimenion to the top of the exhaust ports with a small steel rule. I did this on the forward and rear-most port - the engine's not quite level. Using your perpendicular marks on the sidepanel tops, drop a line at 90 degrees down the panel, then mark on your heights to the exhaust port top, and by adding the depth of the port you can draw a rectangle that corresponds to the area that would be taken by the headers assuming they exit straight and square. I then clamped the exhaust trims in place and fiddled around until I appeared to have reasonable clearance all around - then drilled through for the bolts. I put a couple of guide bolts in then marked around the inside of the trim. Then removed it and cut with a jigsaw and fine blade - slowly. Re-fit the trim and finish off with the powerfile. It's handy trimming the alloy back to the stainless trim as the powerfile hardly marks the stainless if you are careful so you can get a really good edge.

A couple of small issues - the rear-most pipe on the headers drops down a bit early and I had to cut a radius in the trim and panel below it for clearance. If you're prepared to have the trim at an angle to the line of the chassis rail rather than cut the radius then you could avoid this - but I'd rather have the trim level.

The flanges on the near-side header weren't made right and I had to file out the bottom row of holes to get the bolts through and into the heads.

As I've seen elsewhere, the collectors don't exit with enough clearance to allow fitting of the lead pipe and silencer without modification, so will be looking at that sometime soon.

For my money having the Luego trims makes the issue of cutting the right sized hole simple, and they do look good once in place. The flanges just wiggle through.

Best of luck, take it slow, and as someone else's posts say - measure twice and cut once.

Cheers
Simon

Paul,

I fitted mine through individual holes using a 45m Q-Max cutter.
You need to cut the metal away between the ports on the manifold.
VERY carefully measure before cutting!!!



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