Hi Guys

I have booked my Viento in for a pre SVA MOT check and to get the brakes and wheel alignment sorted and I have been asked if I can get the alignment settings so they can set it up properly.

Now there is no reference to this in the build manual so I was wondering if anyone out there knows what settings I should use?

Cheers!

Mark

I have about 1 degree Camber all round.
and I set the toe in to ZERO, ie wheels parallel. They do need a slight toe-in, but I dont know how much. Zero was a reasonable starting point.

I set the toe in to zero, as it would be OK to drive, and not scrub the tyres badly. I still have to get all the suspension set up.

Those settings will not be far out, and are a good starting point.

There have been a couple of Suspension and steering threads recently. So maybe worth a search through the archives.

Its also worth doing the corner weights to balance the car up as well.


[Edited on 23/5/2007 by wilkingj]

Not a Viento but my Luego Locost has 1/2 degree neg camber, 5 degrees castor and 1mm toe in . Did the corner weights as well which made a big improvement, Car handles very well on these settings

The info in the e-manual (which I managed to prise off Grant) was:

Tracking – front
0.5–1mm toe-in
This is difficult to set accurately without the proper equipment. Adjust both sides to maintain equal O/S & N/S track rod lengths

Camber angle, front & rear
0.5–1.0 degrees negative, i.e. wheel leans in at the top
Can be set using a spirit level against the wheel rim, with spacing blocks to clear the tyre.

Castor angle, front
2-3 degrees negative, i.e. top of the hub leans back
Helps the steering to self-centre. This is difficult to set accurately without the proper equipment. An initial amount is already built into the top & bottom wishbones. Adjust by rotating the aluminium mushroom in the top of the hub. <<< I found that by setting the wishbones to the extremes I got 5 deg which was OK for SVA without adjusting the mushroom>>>

Ride height and damping rates – front & rear
Moving the adjustable collar on the shocks will raise and lower the ride height. Set the two rear corners at the same height, and the front 12mm lower than the back. Low damping rates allow the spring to move more freely - ideal for uneven surfaces. High damping rates restrict spring movement - ideal for the race-track.

HTH, Neil.

Before you make any adjustments check the all the suspension moves correctly around the crush tubes

That's brilliant guys, you truely are the font of all locost knowedge!

I will take this with me when I take the car for the MOT/Setup and hopefully it will sail through the SVA the following week

Mark

Rusty nuts is spot on - You need to have it on the road doing some bouncing before the suspension settles down - My o/s front wheel is now leaning well in by eye so it's a job with the spirit level and washers at the weekend...