Hi,

One of my fail points at SVA was the bias bar was a touch too long, and so was scraping against the side of the pedal box, I have moved the bolt along, but that leaves no room for the securing nut and roll pin, so I need to trim the bolt down a touch.

I have an angle grinder, with either grinding disc and 1mm metal cutting disc - or I can go and buy a decent hacksaw.

I have screwed the correct size and pitch nut on, in case the trhead gets a bit buggered, so I can wind it off and so restore any slight defects the cutting may create.

So folks, what is the best tool for a decent job?

angry grinder and cutting disc every time,no point in wasting energy with a hack saw

Doesn't matter what you use to chop the end of the bolt off with but a good trick is to cut the end of the bolt off where it meets the nut and then give it a good file. Then when you undo the nut you have a nice thread at the end (not only because its been cleaned by the nut coming off but because the end thread is protected by the nut itself)...

roger.

Thanks chaps!

how does it scrape on the side of the pedal box without interfering with the clutch or accelerator?

just curious...

the pivots are all in line at the bottom of the pedal box, whereas the bias bar is a few inches further up. The pedal box has two end walls, and two walls to seperate the accelrator, brake and clutch. - it is these "interior" walls that the bias bolt rubs against. Its only JUST touching, but is a fair fail point, as brakes should be spot on shouldn;t they!

ah, so the pedals are are seperate units. i understand. yeah, best trim it down anyway

Hacksaw and hand file are my preferred tools for any reasonably mild steel. Much more control, no sparks and no grit/metal dust flung over everything, and I need the exercsie!

I shorten bolts several times a day, and also prefer a hacksaw for the job, and file a chamfer on afterwards.

John

As the two above says, hacksaw every time, and you can handle the bolt again staright away without burning your fingers...