Having now got the R1 car running i have 2 issues to sort out, neither of which i seem to be getting very far with despite having read a milliion and one threads of fixes.

1. Fuel Gauge
Tacho Bounce to 8k means it can detect the resistance from the normal fuel sender. This is correct as ive fitted a float switch, but HTF do i get around this.

2. Temperature
Hi Temp reading continuously despite having the correct wires, new temp sender, and having connected the earth wore to pretty much everything suggested.


I need to get these sorted as i want to think about bookin SVA end of Jan and i want to make sure the car runs right.

Any help much appreciated.

Thanks

I thought that the tacho bounce was caused by the lack of exup valve?

Try another ecu for the 8k bounce. I fitted an R1 fuel sender behind the dash and this didn't fix it, neither did a variable resistor in place of it, turned out to be the ecu. I now have the fuel warning light permanently on, it doesn't affect the running of the car. As for the temp. reading mine reads low all the time despite the engine getting extremely hot at SVA to heat the cat up. My car is wired using an extended R1 loom so is very similar to the bike. The reading won't stop you going for SVA.

Hope this helps,

Cheers, Kurt

yep bit you want it working properly

have you got an exup valve to plug in? and just tie it up out the way


as for the fuel send just to see if this gets rid of the fuel error

th two wires that go to the fuel sender touch them together this should get rid of the error code and bring on the low warning LED just put a sticker over it or something better than haveing the thing jumping up and down otherwises get your fuel sender working

Ill have a think about the HI for you

Im using an extended R1 Loom as well, and have the exup mounted in the engine bay, so i know its not this.

8k on the Tacho is definately an improper circuit on the fuel sender side of things, and although i could just have the light on i would really like to know the fuel level as ive gone to the effort now of putting a float switch into the tank.

Strangely as well if i disconnect the wires from the fuel send switch it makes no difference to the 8k tacho error, or if i put the 2 wires together. I may have to look out for another 4XV ecu (Any Offers)

Id also really like to know the water temp in case of overheating. Ive got a thermo fan switch in the circuit so that switches the fan on and i can feel the cooler water coming round the bottom hose, so i know its ok, but want the gauge to work if at all possible.

[Edited on 27/12/07 by ChrisS]

On my old (carb) R1 the fuel switch line has a resistor to deck, 1k to 10k ohm if memory serves
Bob
PS exup tango is 7500rpm, fuel 8000rpm so they are easy to mix up

[Edited on 27/12/07 by Bob C]

ok well somethings wrong somewhere

your obv using a aftermarket fuel gauge? aswell

On the 05 R1 fuel level sender the resistance is in the range of 20-26 ohms at full and 134-140 ohms empty you need to measure the resistance of the sender you are using and see if it is the same. I don't think it will be the same which is why you have the problem with the light on. I have a racetech sender in my tank and that was not the same resistance so I am going to use the racetech fuel gauge as the R1 dash only has an indicator to tell you fuel is low.
To make the light go out on the dash you need to connect a resistor between the green/white wire and black wire that go to the fuel level connector on the fuel pump assy, I would think 100 ohm resistor would do it.

Not too sure if the 4xv is going to be the same resistance or uses the same fuel pump/fuel level assembly.

[Edited on 27/12/07 by stuart_g]

Hmm

Trying to stick loosely to the laughable "locost" theme, ive put in a float switch that i brought from RS Components. Im not an electronics guru, so dont know what resistance it provides if any, so how do i measure this? and if i then find a resistance how do i make it work within the existing wiring, or am i pissing in the wind trying to make the R1 clocks low fuel warning light actually work.

What with this and the temp problem im having, im begining to wonder if i should have gone with one of these £90 digital dash replacements, but then i guess this could bring additional problems i guess.

Thanks

What sort of float switch is it?

If it is the sort which makes a circuit when the float gets to a certain point it will not have a variable resistance throughout it's movement, it will just work like a switch. If this is the type you have then this will never work with the light as the float will be open circuit until the point of which the float moves far enough to activate and then it will be short circuit.

What the R1 dash needs to see is a variable resistance so it knows how much fuel is in the tank, when it gets to a certain resistance the light then comes on to warn you that fuel is low and that you are now using the reserve tank which is part of the bike tank. I think this is pretty basic and not much use in a car fuel tank as you would have to make it so the light came on with enough fuel in the tank to give you a reserve amount.

IMHO you are better getting a seperate fuel gauge and proper sender unit, then put a resistor in the bike loom to make the light go out. I am using the racetech gauge and sender, they are reasonably priced and this way you can see how much fuel you have.

They are easy to wire up and you only need one wire from the sender to the gauge.

You can test your float switch with a multimeter across it's terminals and see if it is variable resistance type or switch type.