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Do I need a better jig saw to cut worktops?
John P - 4/8/12 at 08:24 PM

I've got a fairly old and basic B&D Jigsaw which works fine for most jobs using a conventional blade which cuts on the up-stroke.

When doing a worktop I tried using a blade which cuts on the down stroke but although I can keep the line straight the blade runs off at a significant angle through the worktop thickness. I've bought reasonable blades and presume this problem is because when cutting on the down stroke the blade tends to buckle.

Would a better jig saw help? (I can't really justify / afford to buy a plunge type circular saw).

Alternatively what do you think about using blades which cut on the upstroke? I assume the risk is the laminate may chip but it's only for an inset sink so the 10mm or sow around the edge of the cut will be hidden.

Any advice?

John.

MikeCapon - 4/8/12 at 08:27 PM

Er, use a blade which cuts on the upstroke and cut from underneath??

snapper - 4/8/12 at 08:35 PM

Best to use a router and a jig

JoelP - 4/8/12 at 08:40 PM

I never use a down cutter, you cant have pendulum on and if they snap it jumps out of the cut more and has more chance of f**king off down the worktop. With a sink, just use a sharp blade, it wont chip more than 2mm at worst. And dont push too hard!

BTW, i can highly recommend getting a plunge saw. I got a ts55 and it was eye opening how useful it is. I mean, shocking how easy it makes things.

Slimy38 - 4/8/12 at 08:48 PM

I had the same, a pathetic B&D that just couldn't cut the depth of a worktop and as you're finding it never could cut vertically. In the end it died in a fit of grease and motor brushes, halfway through the third worktop cut. I then spent a bit more money on one of the Wickes pro jigsaws, and it finished the job beautifully.

I think what was happening is that with the weaker jigsaw I was having to really push the blade along, and it was just twisting in the mount. With the extra wattage from the good jigsaw I didn't have to push at all, and therefore the blade wasn't under any stress. The downstroke blades do work quite nicely, I used a few layers of masking tape on top to make sure the jigsaw plate didn't damage the work surface.

A router is the best option, but even then I think you'd have to pay a fair bit for a decent router.

Slimy38 - 4/8/12 at 08:50 PM

quote:
Originally posted by JoelP you cant have pendulum on


I've not found a situation where I can switch pendulum on. For mine in particular it just seems to hack at the wood, I'd do a better job with a hammer and blunt chisel!

JoelP - 4/8/12 at 08:54 PM

Interesting! I never switch pendulum off! Mines is a bosch gsc150bce, which i think is a bargain at £150 in a stackable box. I put a 6" blade in it and chopped a tree down, literally circling round a 10" trunk repeatedly.

Motor did give up a few months later though!

Slimy38 - 4/8/12 at 09:08 PM

Yeah, I'd probably turn it on to chop a tree down!

That sounds like fun actually, I might go find myself a tree...

JoelP - 4/8/12 at 09:21 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
Yeah, I'd probably turn it on to chop a tree down!

That sounds like fun actually, I might go find myself a tree...


I swear, it was the most fun ive had in a long time! Two trees that went about 15foot over the ridge of a two storey house, and i felled them to 15 foot stumps with nothing more than a ladder and a jigsaw, in about 4 hours! Then even more fun when i finished them with a chainsaw.

Daddylonglegs - 4/8/12 at 09:27 PM

Yep, I agree with the 'upstroke' theory (oooer!), and also make sure you let the blade do the cutting, too many people try and help the blade forward with a heavy pressure and that makes cuts ragged and innacurate. It's all about patience don't you know

unijacko67 - 4/8/12 at 09:30 PM

Never use router, too much dust and set up time, Bosch pro and 244d blade, will do 10 sink cutouts and some. Again if your blade is going off don't push too hard as it could break B&D that is. Theres only one jigsaw and its a Bosch.

I predict a Riot - 4/8/12 at 09:42 PM

You are forcing te blade.

Just let the blade do all the work. Take your time and only use light pressure.

You don't need a good jigsaw just a gentle touch.

Having said all that - I always use a hand saw.

myke pocock - 4/8/12 at 10:11 PM

Depends what kind of cut you are doing. Yes, get the right blade and dont skimp on cost. Also a crappy jig saw will give a crappy cut but if you are doing a straight cut clamp a straight edge to the work surface (a bit of dressed 2 x1 or similar) and CUT SLOWLY. If you are making a cut out for a sink try drilling in at the corners with a flat bit then cutting between with the straight edge idea. SIMPLES!!!

Chippy - 4/8/12 at 10:13 PM

Router and a jig is the only way to do worktops, its the only way you will get a straight cut. I personaly would never go near a top with a jig saw. But then I have only done dozens of them, so how would I know. Clue is in my handle. Cheers Ray

MikeRJ - 4/8/12 at 10:42 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
Router and a jig is the only way to do worktops, its the only way you will get a straight cut. I personaly would never go near a top with a jig saw. But then I have only done dozens of them, so how would I know. Clue is in my handle. Cheers Ray


If you are joining worktops together than I absolutely agree that a router + jig is the only way to do it. However a cut out for a sink etc. can easily be done with a decent jigsaw, more quickly and with less dust.

unijacko67 - 4/8/12 at 10:52 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
Router and a jig is the only way to do worktops, its the only way you will get a straight cut. I personaly would never go near a top with a jig saw. But then I have only done dozens of them, so how would I know. Clue is in my handle. Cheers Ray


Yea agree for joints, sorry Chippy.

marcjagman - 4/8/12 at 11:01 PM

Why not use a circular saw?

unijacko67 - 4/8/12 at 11:23 PM

Not easy to scribe a worktop to a wall with a circular saw, not easy to see where your cutting with circular saw, not easy to do sink cut out with circular saw. Do you mean a skill saw, still not good on worktops. Good for workshop though with tripple chip blade on mfc.

JC - 5/8/12 at 07:17 AM

I had exactly the same cutting a work top many years ago. Solution? I hired a decent jig saw with a bit of oomph! Worked fine (but I had no joints to cut either). The ends were then trued with an electric planer!

JoelP - 5/8/12 at 07:53 AM

Most kitchen fitters drill the corners and jigsaw the rest. Brave ones might use a circular saw, and drop it into the cut. Canny ones have a plunge saw with a rail like a ts55.

For joins, its a router every time. You can cut ends with a ts55 and edge straight onto it, even up cutting.

For scribing its a mix of tools - jigsaw upside down, router, planer, even table saw. Depends on what you are trying to scribe to.

r1_pete - 5/8/12 at 08:22 AM

For the sink inset, if you put 2" masking tape on the cut line, then mark the cut on the masking tape, it will prevent bad splintering,

The only problem cutting from the back is that the blade can wander enough to ruin the job.

Confused but excited. - 5/8/12 at 09:17 AM

quote:
Originally posted by I predict a Riot
You are forcing the blade.

Just let the blade do all the work. Take your time and only use light pressure.

You don't need a good jigsaw just a gentle touch.

Having said all that - I always use a hand saw.


What he said is dead right.

If you push too hard and try to force the saw to cut, it bends the blade off to one side.

A decent blade will help, just take your time.

If you want a straight cut, use a hand saw, cutting down from the top surface.

coyoteboy - 7/8/12 at 06:44 PM

Personally did all mine with a cheap (20£) router and a reasonably pricey router bit. Worktops look professionally cut, jobs a goodun.