Neuronic
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 10:35 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Yazza54
quote:
Originally posted by Neuronic
quote:
Originally posted by norfolkluego
Haven't insurance companies cottoned on to bike engines then, do they just rate on the capacity?
I would also like to know this, will kind of determine whether I go BEC or Road Engine I guess 
[Edited on 11/3/11 by Neuronic]
Have I not just made it pretty clear?
Oh sorry, I have only just seen your post! Thanks for that information Yazza. What complications am I likely to run into with going bike engined as I
would need to dry sump wouldn't I, and from what I hear that can be expensive? I have absolutely no experience with bike engines at all.
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Yazza54
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 10:41 AM |
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R1 or blade just need a sump baffle plate. Easy and cheap.
Busas need dry sump.
I'm unhappy cos I eat and I eat cos I'm unhappy
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Neuronic
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 10:45 AM |
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Oh I see.. sounds easy enough, is there anthing else I should know/be aware of regarding BEC? Appreciate the help Yazza.
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Yazza54
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 10:53 AM |
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Well there's the obvious lack of reverse but a bit of forethought usually solves that. You could always fit an electric one though.
Look into what diff ratio is best for your gearset too, easiest to just copy what someone else already uses. Mine runs a freelander diff as it gives a
higher top speed and is lighter than sierra. Or you could go live axle..
Bike engines are relatively simple, after all you don't have the room for masses of wiring and clutter on a bike!
I'm unhappy cos I eat and I eat cos I'm unhappy
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UncleFista
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 11:14 AM |
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Another plus on a crossflow (or other engine of that age) is that you only need to meet the "visible smoke" test on the IVA and forever
afterwards.
What I mean is, if you pass the test with an old engine, then the car will only ever have to meet those standards, whatever engine you change to in
the future. Much simplifying the MOT.
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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Neuronic
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 11:20 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by UncleFista
Another plus on a crossflow (or other engine of that age) is that you only need to meet the "visible smoke" test on the IVA and forever
afterwards.
What I mean is, if you pass the test with an old engine, then the car will only ever have to meet those standards, whatever engine you change to in
the future. Much simplifying the MOT.
That is very interesting to know UncleFista! I will take that into consideration. However from taking a quick look around - it seems crossflow engines
are quite expensive now, from what I can see.. however I still need to perform a more in-depth search
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Yazza54
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 11:37 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Neuronic
quote:
Originally posted by UncleFista
Another plus on a crossflow (or other engine of that age) is that you only need to meet the "visible smoke" test on the IVA and forever
afterwards.
What I mean is, if you pass the test with an old engine, then the car will only ever have to meet those standards, whatever engine you change to in
the future. Much simplifying the MOT.
That is very interesting to know UncleFista! I will take that into consideration. However from taking a quick look around - it seems crossflow engines
are quite expensive now, from what I can see.. however I still need to perform a more in-depth search
I'm sorry but if you can build a car you can build a IVA/MOT friendly exhaust to slip on as and when.
Build the car you want to end up with for the long term, not based on the odd test once a year and the initial IVA.
I'm unhappy cos I eat and I eat cos I'm unhappy
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Neuronic
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 11:50 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Yazza54
quote:
Originally posted by Neuronic
quote:
Originally posted by UncleFista
Another plus on a crossflow (or other engine of that age) is that you only need to meet the "visible smoke" test on the IVA and forever
afterwards.
What I mean is, if you pass the test with an old engine, then the car will only ever have to meet those standards, whatever engine you change to in
the future. Much simplifying the MOT.
That is very interesting to know UncleFista! I will take that into consideration. However from taking a quick look around - it seems crossflow engines
are quite expensive now, from what I can see.. however I still need to perform a more in-depth search
I'm sorry but if you can build a car you can build a IVA/MOT friendly exhaust to slip on as and when.
Build the car you want to end up with for the long term, not based on the odd test once a year and the initial IVA.
I see your point Yazza, a quick question for you - where did you pick up your R1 engine.. from performing a quick search for blade engines they seem
to be quite pricey.
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stupid3ish
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 11:54 AM |
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Hi guys,
I'm just about to start the same sort of project, and have the same sort of background,been to shows. Now since starting a job I've
decided to start a build.
I've been debating over an mx5 build or BEC.
Since bec has been told as lower insurance. I was wondering about the price of a bike engine. Ask I can seem to find is like R1 engines for close to
1k. Is that the normal sort of price? Are there any cheaper places to look other than ebay?
Thanks
Michael
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Yazza54
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 12:05 PM |
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I built my libra but not the fury. However if I did another I'd be going the same route or poss a zx14.
It was brand new at time of build for £2k but I've seen plenty of 5jjs and 893/919 etc blades on eBay and such for around 500 quid.
Sometimes worth looking for full bikes aswell. Seen people remove the engine and sell on the frame before.
I just typed 'fireblade engine' into eBay and voila! Cheap motors.
I can't link them cause I'm on my iPhone but have a look..
I'm unhappy cos I eat and I eat cos I'm unhappy
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Yazza54
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 12:12 PM |
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There's always the zx9 engine too, kinda in-between the r1 and blade on power. But people do tend to favour the r1 and fireblade for litre bike
engines. Not sure why.
Theyre the two I'd consider. Blackbird needs dry sump and has a weak box so they're your best bets.
I'm unhappy cos I eat and I eat cos I'm unhappy
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JimSpencer
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 12:21 PM |
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Hi
First off don't forget you'll need reverse gear to pass the IVA test when doing a BEC build, so do factor that in.
Now as a different idea;-
Why not save up for a short while and go shopping for a tatty but road legal 'seven' of roughly the type and finish you want.
Doesn't really matter what engine/box (as long as it's not too weird!) as think of it as a collection of components, that cost less in a
lump than they would do seperatly, that doesn't need an IVA test..
SORN It.
Strip it right back to a bare chassis and start again - you now have a 'comprehensive kit' really!
If you decide to change the engine / colour write to the DVLA and let then know.
Once completed MOT it and drive off into the sunset.
There are lots of plusses to this method starting with not having to worry about a donor car (and the fun one can have with neighbours / parents /
wifes while dismantling one of them) carrying onto;-
if it's been built and you strip it you can see how it's been done, fix what you don't like and do a propper job when putting it
back together.
You won't end up with a huge pile of kit you don't eventually use..
It's cheaper.
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Neuronic
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 02:26 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by eddie99
Hi mate,
Im 18 now... Been building since i was 16 i guess.... Have a kitcar pretty close to IVA but its on the back burner as getting into racing at the
moment.... Don't try bike engine, Insurance companies have caught on... I'd say the 1.6 MX5 engine is what you want to be putting in, you
can turbo it up to 200bhp cheap as well  ... I've got a 1.8 blacktop zetec, kind of hoping to IVA it and be able to use it a bit this summer...
Your not to far away in Peterborough, im at uni in coventry and home in essex so if im ever in the area
Regards
Ed
Hey mate, good going! Just had a quick look and those engines are so cheap! Might consider it! Do you know what the insurance is likely to be for you
at 18?
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 03:48 PM |
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Insurance for kit cars tends to be a lot cheaper than production cars. A friend who had a drink driving ban at the age of 22 found the only thing he
could afford to insure was a VW based Nova for around £600, his crappy rusty old Fiesta was £1400 for just third party
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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stupid3ish
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 04:48 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Yazza54
I built my libra but not the fury. However if I did another I'd be going the same route or poss a zx14.
It was brand new at time of build for £2k but I've seen plenty of 5jjs and 893/919 etc blades on eBay and such for around 500 quid.
Sometimes worth looking for full bikes aswell. Seen people remove the engine and sell on the frame before.
I just typed 'fireblade engine' into eBay and voila! Cheap motors.
I can't link them cause I'm on my iPhone but have a look..
I see your point Yazza, pretty cheap. What sort of mileage would you guys look for in a bike engine?
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Neuronic
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 04:50 PM |
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I read somewhere that most bikes won't last more than around 75k miles - correct me if I am wrong.. It was just something I read.
[Edited on 11/3/11 by Neuronic]
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wilkingj
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 06:21 PM |
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Well maybe, but in general, its highly unlikely that you will be doing 10K miles a year in your kit car.
In 4 years I have done barely 7k miles.
I have limited mileage insurance which helps keep the costs down as well.
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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UncleFista
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| posted on 11/3/11 at 06:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Yazza54
I'm sorry but if you can build a car you can build a IVA/MOT friendly exhaust to slip on as and when.
Build the car you want to end up with for the long term, not based on the odd test once a year and the initial IVA.
What exhaust would you recommend for my post '96 zetec on bike carbs to pass post '96 emissions ? 
I'm not saying it's worth building a car with a crossflow for only that reason, but if insurance and cost is a major factor the emissions
bit just adds another plus point
Tony Bond / UncleFista
Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...
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Miks15
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| posted on 13/3/11 at 08:02 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Neuronic
quote:
Originally posted by Miks15
Hey Adam,
I am very much in the same posisiton. I have been building since i was 17 (now 19) and used a 1.6 E36 as a donor. I scratch built a chassis based
loosely on the book and the haynes book. Im nearing the end but with being at uni i dont get much time to work on it.
On a seperate note my bro lives in deeping so when you get a bit further a long id love to come down and see your car and possibly lend a hand if ever
you need it when im in the area.
Cheers
Mikkel
Thanks Miks! That's very kind of you! I am in the same situation as I work full time and do a part-time degree at uni.. It's just
something I would love to do! How far are you with your build?
Well most of it is together, just a matter of finishing bodywork off and then all the IVA bits really, just a pain being away from home so much of the
time. but hopefully get it on the road this summer (fingers crossed!)
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Irony
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| posted on 21/3/11 at 01:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by JimSpencer
Hi
First off don't forget you'll need reverse gear to pass the IVA test when doing a BEC build, so do factor that in.
Now as a different idea;-
Why not save up for a short while and go shopping for a tatty but road legal 'seven' of roughly the type and finish you want.
Doesn't really matter what engine/box (as long as it's not too weird!) as think of it as a collection of components, that cost less in a
lump than they would do seperatly, that doesn't need an IVA test..
SORN It.
Strip it right back to a bare chassis and start again - you now have a 'comprehensive kit' really!
If you decide to change the engine / colour write to the DVLA and let then know.
Once completed MOT it and drive off into the sunset.
There are lots of plusses to this method starting with not having to worry about a donor car (and the fun one can have with neighbours / parents /
wifes while dismantling one of them) carrying onto;-
if it's been built and you strip it you can see how it's been done, fix what you don't like and do a propper job when putting it
back together.
You won't end up with a huge pile of kit you don't eventually use..
It's cheaper.
I am half way through my build and if I was starting over (older, wiser etc) I would do as above. I feel this is now the cheapest way to build a kit
car. I have found that things like the 'engine' etc are only a part of the cost. With buying a fully built kitcar and then stripping it
down you have every bit already.
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