jollygreengiant
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| posted on 21/8/11 at 01:46 PM |
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Ohhhhh Blast it.
Or words to that effect.
On the way to the Stoneliegh show, I found that I had a throttle problem. When I got home I found that a small piece of plastic from my induction set
up had broken of and was jamming the butterfly open, intermitently. So I repaired the induction tubing and thought, Sorted.
A couple of weeks ago I went out on a blat round my area before supposedly going on a Fish 'N' Chip run to sunny hunny. However on my run
out I found that I was having dificulty selecting 1st and 3rd. So I puulled out of the run. Oh and on the way home from my blat, I lost my air filter
(as I ran over it and mangled it).
Anyway, today, I FINALLY got the car up in the air to inspect what was going on, because, other than the gearstick having moved sideways and forward
by about 5mm, there was no obvious sign of anything.
Turns out that the nearside engine mounting, onto the block, has cracked on the underside between the plate and the shaft down. The offside mounting
plate to the rubber insulater has distorted.
So, I now have to remove both the engine mountings and remanufacture them, using heavier plate. I thought that 3mm would have been enough, but,
obviously the power from my pinto is too much and maybe I shall have to go for 5mm or 6mm.
Then I will have to remake the air filter housing again and by a new filter.
Bugg£r.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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Richard Quinn
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| posted on 21/8/11 at 02:59 PM |
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It might be the weight rather than the power 
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 21/8/11 at 03:13 PM |
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3mm is certainly too thin for the typical design of engine mount used in the locost because it concentrates a lot of stress in a small area, and
obviously there are significant cyclic loads which all adds up to fatigue cracks.
A 5 or 6mm plate would be much better, as would modifying the design to minimise bending forces on the plate.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 21/8/11 at 03:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Richard Quinn
It might be the weight rather than the power
Oh, you bitch! But I think you hit the nail on the head.
3mm does seem a bit on the thin side Clive but at least you have a pattern
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stevegough
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| posted on 21/8/11 at 03:48 PM |
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Yes, Clive and in the immortal words of Darth Vader......" DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE THE POWER OF THE ...ER ...PINTO " 
Luego Locost C20XE.
Build start: October 6th 2008.
IVA passed Jan 28th 2011.
First drive Feb 10th 2011.
First show: Stoneleigh 1st/2nd May 2011.
'Used up' first engine may 3rd 2011!
Back on the road with 2nd engine may 24th
First PASA mad drive 26/7/11
Sold to Mike in Methyr Tydvil 19/03/14
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ashg
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| posted on 21/8/11 at 07:50 PM |
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3mm geez that is thin. i used 10mm plate for the engine mounts on the new engine
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 21/8/11 at 09:12 PM |
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well since your engine mounts dont follow the oe design , there will be a roll couple from the engine , thats adding to the original weight of the
engine during cornering/braking /accelerating .
engine mounts (the flexible bit ) should be placed in the plane of the centre of mass . or just completely over engineer them.
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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wilkingj
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| posted on 22/8/11 at 06:53 AM |
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I made engine mounts from 3mm... and then had to make some new ones later on as the engine sagged, due to the mounts bending.
Havent moves now in 4 years!
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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Irony
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| posted on 22/8/11 at 07:22 AM |
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I bought new engine mounts from Luego. I beefed the 5mm steel plate up with some extra padding. There are some great ideas for engine mounts on this
site however.
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