bill132hotrod
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| posted on 18/8/11 at 04:01 PM |
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Suspension
Hi guys.
Have a question for all, yes another suspension problem.
What is the recomended ride hight for the velocity xt, reason i ask is i am half way through the painstaking procedure id sorting out the stiff and
sqeaky suspension.
I have compleated the front bushes and crush tube mod and yes what a difference in the actuall operation of the suspension you can see the
difference.
just got to reset the tracking and camber angles.
To check the distance of travel on the shocks i put a small cable tie around the piston rod at the lowest piont then hopped up on top the chassis to
apply weight and jump up and down to simulate suspension travel and it seems that the shocks are bottoming out on the bump stops.
Was thinking that ride hight might be too low, initially it was set so that the bottom wishbones were level to the eye when looking at the front from
a few feet away.
So what ride hight and how many clicks on the shock should i have.
Prior to this i found the car did not handle very well, over the bumpy bits of our british roads the car was very skittish and unpredictable also not
that confortable to ride in.
Bearing in mind i am looking for a reasonably soft ride because of my ongoing back problem,so looking for some advise please.
In the mean time i will get on with the rear bushes and crush tubes, also what ride hight and shock setting on the rear would you recomend.
Thanks in advance Bill.
PERSEVERANCE is the word of the week. Stick with it the results are SWEET.
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rodgling
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| posted on 18/8/11 at 04:09 PM |
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Bottom wishbones should not be parallel with the ground. Take a line between the two pivot points, i.e. the wishbone bushes / rose joints and the
centre of the ball joint - this is the line that should be parallel with the ground. The lower wishbones will then appear to droop out from the car
(because the ball joint is raised up a bit from the wishbone).
That's my understanding anyway, I'm not an expert.
[Edited on 18/8/11 by rodgling]
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mark chandler
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| posted on 18/8/11 at 04:39 PM |
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Surely this depends upon wheel and tyre size, some nice 13" rims with 185/60/13 tyres on cortina hubs the bones would be parallel to the ground
compared to say 15" wheels with 60 section tyres.
On my car I run 4" front, 4.5" back measuring from the front of the frame and the rear from the frame infront of the wheels.
I do however use my locost on the track.
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franky
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| posted on 18/8/11 at 06:04 PM |
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Ground clearance will change with wheel size but as Dave above says, its the pivot point that needs to be level not the wishbone. I guess on some
cars depending on design the wishbone might be level when set up correctly.
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bill132hotrod
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| posted on 21/8/11 at 07:00 PM |
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Hi guys
Sorted front suspension, and what a difference, now for the rears found out the rear suspension was bottoming out.
And much to my amazesment i have got an awfull lot of tow out on the rear wheels ( like almost 13mm) resulting in scubbing of the inside edge of the
tyres.
Has anyone any idear what toe i need in the rear (toe in or toe out)?????????? LUEGO VELOCITY and how am i going to achieve this when there is no
adjustment at all???????
Very badly designed if you ask me.
I reckon the rear wishbones have been made wrong and to think that when i bought this kit i decided to buy from a manufacturer to insure i got a
desent chassis rather than make it myself.
Any good idears would be apprieciated.
Bill.
PERSEVERANCE is the word of the week. Stick with it the results are SWEET.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 21/8/11 at 07:59 PM |
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13mm rear toe-out is an enormous ammount a wonder it hasn't put you in the scenery.
Always use some toe-in on the rears however remember if you use a Dunlop style optical/laser gauge (Sealey is of this type) the gauge has to sit
backwards on the rear so Toe-in reads as toe-out.
Try 0.25 dgrees toe-in on the rear +/- 0.15 degrees.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 21/8/11 at 08:02 PM |
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Just a thought are the bottom wishbones handed or can they be swapped left to right ?
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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Irony
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| posted on 22/8/11 at 07:34 AM |
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I am sure you must be aware of this. On my Viento the rear wishbones go a certain way round. They seem to fit both ways and it's actually
quite difficult to tell 'the right way round'.
Quote from the very old manual
"Now fit the wishbones, starting with the top. Wind the camber adjusters into each of the rear top wishbones, remembering to fit the M18 x 1.5mm
lock nut on each camber adjuster. Note that the long arm faces towards the front of the car. If you have a good look you can see the top wishbone legs
are different lengths."
This manual was written by old old Luego and new Luego get upset if you mention it.
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bill132hotrod
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| posted on 22/8/11 at 07:10 PM |
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Hi yes a very valid piont with the wishbones and swapping side to side you are correct that they will fit either way round and they do look very
similar, i think i will try them both ways to see if it makes a noticable difference, after all its only a few bolts. as you say its unbelievable how
much out they are.
Did not want to start faffing around with spacers.
Will update results, almost finished playing with bushes and crush tubes now so lets hope i get it sorted.
Bill.
PERSEVERANCE is the word of the week. Stick with it the results are SWEET.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 22/8/11 at 07:30 PM |
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I checked the rear tracking on mine to day Bill, guess what , mine is spot on parallel . I should have made a note on how the wishbones are fitted, If
I get a chance I will try to take a photo or two tomorrow and post them up .
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bill132hotrod
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| posted on 25/9/11 at 06:28 PM |
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Suspension sorted on the rear now, wishbones will only fit one way. Much better ride now however now settings are good it leaves the car sitting
higher than i would like it.
I thought abought getting shorter shocks and springs to bring this down to a more sensible hight, but that works out expensive so I think i might look
at seeing if I can lower the bottom mounting position on the shock, that would bring the ride hight down and save me loads of wedge.
I have also fitted new R1R's alround and you can certainly tell the difference with grip.
Also looking at bumpsteer now as i think there might be some adjustment there.
PERSEVERANCE is the word of the week. Stick with it the results are SWEET.
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