tks
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| posted on 29/11/05 at 01:09 PM |
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mhh
disconnect the fuel hose.
And try to start....
while the carbs are emptiered..you will pas the good mixture..and then it will need to fire!
if i was you i would test the fireing order..
i think thats your problem..
because if your spark gets to late or to early it will be pipped in the fuel and it wont spark again!
Sow timing needs time (attention) 
If timing is right then you should check the mixture it willl be needed leaner if the sparks get wet, else i will need enrichment!
When my VFR 800 sparks failed, at the start at 20degrees (altough its injection)
it whas like an shower of vapour out of the exhaust! i could even ignit it with my lighter(on the escape exit)!
Sow your spark plugs need to be as wet as uhh...well very wet...
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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Danozeman
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| posted on 29/11/05 at 04:28 PM |
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Not meaning to sound stupid.
Are your plugs getting wet with fuel when u turn over? Ie flooding?
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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kurt
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| posted on 29/11/05 at 07:33 PM |
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Tonights update.
Ok, I've fitted an additional earth lead from an engine mounting bolt which screws direct into the block, back to the battery via the earth lead
that comes from the battery negative to the chassis. The resistance of the wire is 8 ohms from one end to the other (it's about zero degrees
centigrade in the garage). I've tried switching the coils connections 1 and 4 with 2 and 3, and even switched the connections on individual
coils. All of these produce a healthy spark on the cylunder head bolt, but still it will not fire with the plug back in the hole. When the plug is
out, fule sprays out of the hole when turned over.
As for checking the mixture I don't know how and I don't want to start tampering with the settings on four carbs when I don't really
know what I'm doing. I've tried disconnecting the fuel to lean out the mixture as the engine draws the fuel through as I try to start it,
still not even a cough or a splutter. This is all with a freshly chardged battery, which is now connected to it's optimate because it was
getting flat with trying to start the engine.
Any ideas, anyone, anywhere?
Cheers, Kurt
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rayward
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| posted on 29/11/05 at 08:23 PM |
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is it carb'd or injection R1?.
is your fuel fresh, it does "go off" if left for a long time.
Ray
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kb58
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| posted on 29/11/05 at 08:37 PM |
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Okay, first off, it can't be 8 ohms. As others said, if it was 8 ohms, you could pull only a maximum of 1.5amps - the engine would not crank
over. So either your meter is wrong, your leads defective, or you're connecting them in the wrong place. And why do you mention room
temperature... it doesn't have any measurable effect on the reading.
However, since the engine *does* crank over, it doesn't matter what you measure, as it means it's much, much, less then 8ohms... probably
0.008 ohms is more like it. BTW, that ground wire should be a really fat one, is it? The copper, not the insulation, should be about the diameter of
a pencel. Is it?
After cranking the engine for a while, do you smell gasoline near the exhaust? If so, good, if not, find out why. Pull all the plugs and see if
they're wet, they should be.
Since you say you're getting a strong spark it means the ignition module is powered and being triggered - good. As others have said though, you
need to find out if the spark is happening at the right time, so the engine needs to be timed.
If that's good and it still won't start, eat your pride and use some starter fluid. That'll quickly point to where the issue is.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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JoelP
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| posted on 29/11/05 at 09:10 PM |
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sorry, you've undoubtedly already said this, but what fuel pump is it using? Im sure fuel shouldnt splatter out of the spark plug hole.
Also, a small point, but i suspect your meter is set to milliohms, not ohms. Id expect a 12" length of earth cable to have nearly no resistance
(ie 0.008 ohms etc) 
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tks
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| posted on 29/11/05 at 09:10 PM |
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wich year R1 engine?
do you use original loom?
Look at the colours of the wires ans ask over here..wich cylinder it should be connected to...
its the fastes method of timing your engine.
also you need to be sure you use coil 1 for example for cilinder 1 and 3 and coil 2 for 2 and 4 its just an example!
it could also be 1 and 2 and 3 and 4..
and then the coils swapped!
sow in fact you have 3posibilities with
2 wire poss sow you could try 6 different setups!
Coil 1 on 1 and 4 / 1 and 3/ 1 and 2
Coil 2 on 2 and 2 / 2 and 4 / 3 and 4
and then the leads swapped from the 2 coils..
sow its not just pick and try.....
if i was i would get the hayness. also when you say you don't want to mess with the carbs.... with a hayness you can do everything even sync
them...
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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kurt
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| posted on 29/11/05 at 09:16 PM |
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Definitely fuel at the exhaust, very smelly. Engine spinning over fine, I suspect multimeter is on the blink, earth wire is easy the thickness of a
pencil. Fuel however is about six months old, so it looks like this could be the next thing to check. Hopefully my wifes car will run ok on 3
gallons of old fuel from my tank when I drain it.
As for using Easystart, it's nothing to do with pride, it's just I've heard from someone who used to teach motor vehicle studies
that he wouldn't use it on his engine, because it is so volatile and engines make horrible noises when it's used on them. Also there
seems to be vastly coflicting views on here about it's use on a high performance engine.
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kurt
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| posted on 29/11/05 at 09:25 PM |
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I'm also relying on the labels on the HT leads for 1 2 3 4, but have not tried switching these around to see if trial and error will confirm if
they are correct. The engine is 2000 I think because it has the AIS (air induction system) on it and is carburettor not fuel injection.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 29/11/05 at 10:26 PM |
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I assume your interpretation of pistons 1,2,3 and 4 is the same as Yamaha's?
Also once high performance bike plugs have been flooded they are very hard to get working properly again, Ive heard of people having to clean them up
with a blow torch before they'll fire again, so even though you've put new plugs in, if its flooded again since that may still be the
issue.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 29/11/05 at 10:29 PM |
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Another thing to try, when I first ran my blade up I used a small container with a bit of fuel hose coming out the bottom going straight to the carbs
(via a T piece to go to both sides). It might be worth rigging up something similar so you can eliminate the fuel pump from the equation, the carbs
should be OK to run on gravity fed fuel, or at least splutter.
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smart51
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| posted on 30/11/05 at 08:44 AM |
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My R1 wouldn't start wne I first tried. There seemed to be fuel and spark. I drained the fuel from the carbs and it was orange. eugh! Also,
one of the float chambers had hardly any fuel in it.
I removed the float bowls and vaccum chamber covers and cleaned out all the chambers and jets. When I reassembles and primed with clean fuel it
sprang into life.
If I were you, I would switch on the ignition and wait for the fuel pump to stop then key off and drain the fuel from the carbs. measure the fuel
from each one to see ifthe same amount drains from each one. It won't do any harm and will cost you nothing.
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kurt
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| posted on 30/11/05 at 07:07 PM |
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Sounds like I'm going to have to take the plunge and clean the carbs. Thanks for the advice, Kurt
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 30/11/05 at 07:15 PM |
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your fuel is 6 months old
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tks
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| posted on 30/11/05 at 07:16 PM |
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an idea
when you have the plugs out,
the best thing to dry them is with your lighter ( heat them up with the flame)
then they will get dry!
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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kurt
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| posted on 3/12/05 at 05:44 PM |
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Had the carbs apart today, checked and cleaned jets etc. put back together still not firing. Last thing to try is draining of all the old fuel, and
seeing if that works. Will do that tomorrow and let you all know. Cheers for now, Kurt.
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tony9876
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| posted on 3/12/05 at 06:16 PM |
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If its any help i used to be a fair weather biker and had to renew the fuel on every bike i had after the winter period or i couldnt get them going.
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 3/12/05 at 06:54 PM |
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Kurt
am I right in thinking youve done all these different things with loads of effort, but you havent bothered to go and get three quids worth of fresh
fuel for it!
Modern Fuel loses its Octane rating so quicky
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Peteff
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| posted on 3/12/05 at 08:16 PM |
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the best thing to dry them is with your lighte
Get the blowlamp out and hold them in the flame for 3 or 4 minutes till they are hot, stick them back in quick and then turn it over without any choke
so it doesn't flood. Make sure you've drained the float bowls and filled them up with new fuel, they get condensation in them. Fire some
carb cleaner down the carbs and look closely at the needles as they get gummed up when they are left in one place in the jet for a long time. Get a
good battery so it can turn over for a longer period, jump it off a car battery if necessary as it will take a while till it's all been run. If
possible get a hairdryer to blow warm air into it while you turn it over, every little helps even put a spot of petrol down a couple of the plugholes
with an eyedropper before you put the plugs back in, guaranteed to fire if you are getting a spark.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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Gernster
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| posted on 17/12/05 at 07:11 PM |
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terrible first post for me, but why not just tow it up & down the road & try and jump start it off? Ive had a few tempermental engines in my
time & that usually gets them running!
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 17/12/05 at 07:21 PM |
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hi hes fixed it mate
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