eznfrank
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posted on 25/5/09 at 08:00 AM |
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ZX12 still not starting?? Help needed!
I'm still having bother with this pesky ZX12 not starting.
The story so far..............
The wiring is pretty much as standard just re-directed and shortened/lengthened where neccesary. Side stand and clutch lockout set to ground,
original ignition barrel being used, clocks light up and other bits such as fan and horn work ok. Try to start in neutral and turns over but
doesn't fire. Appears no fuel or spark. Fuel pump doesn't prime at on position and fuel pump relay and ECU relay don't click. FI
light doesn't light either.
2nd try - Open up battery box and disable tilt switch. Exactly same - no change.
3rd try - Was told to try a 100 ohm resistor between grey wire and switched live (brown?), I didn;t think this would be required as I have the
original barrel. I checked ignition barrel and it already had a resistor (unsure of value) which i left in place and stuck in a 100 ohm resistor
between grey and brown (switched live?). Now not turning over at all but I am getting a clicking from battery box that I wasn't before.
No fuses blown anywhere and no smoke escaping from any wiring. Any ideas??
Maybe a dodgy earth? I have the main engine one on but maybe I missed one hidden away somewhere? I have checked and can't see anything
anywhere???
Perhaps I should cut out that other resistor in the back of the barrel? If it's damamged or a different value I could be putting a weird value
on the grey wire?
Also is the switched live the brown wire? I thought it was but I'm not 100% sure now?
Any ideas?? Puzzled!!!
[Edited on 25/5/09 by eznfrank]
[Edited on 25/5/09 by eznfrank]
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marmot0
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posted on 25/5/09 at 08:51 AM |
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Is your battery flat
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eznfrank
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posted on 25/5/09 at 08:52 AM |
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quote: Originally posted by marmot0
Is your battery flat
No, it's a brand new battery which is fully charged.
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adithorp
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posted on 25/5/09 at 09:11 AM |
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Have you checked for live to the fuel pump and ECU relays (both swiched and unswiched)?
As the fault is effecting both circuits I'd be looking at the feed to them which probably comes from a common source or the earth from them.
Not familiar with the ZX12 but thats where I'd be looking first.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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chris.russell
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posted on 25/5/09 at 09:22 AM |
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As Adrian said, have you checked the power to the fuel pump? If that appears to be fine then check the pump itself. On two occasions I have had to
replace the fuel pump as it seems to "sieze" when it is left exposed to air for long periods of time, on both occasions replacing the fuel
pump ment it would prime then fire first time.
Chris
Mines a pint
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eddbaz
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posted on 25/5/09 at 09:31 AM |
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Sounds like exactly the same fault that I had,after trying different ecu,tilt switch checking relays fuses etc, it turned out to be the ignition wire
that feeds into the ecu, it's the grey wire that goes to pin 39 in the ecu,the ecu is looking for a voltage drop between the battery voltage the
voltage going into pin 39 or it imobilises the fuel and ignition.If you are using the original barrel this should happen but if you are bypassing the
original ignition and fitting an after market ignition switch you have to wire a resister into the feed wire (grey pin 39) to drop the voltage, then
the engine will start ok.
The reason for this is to stop the engine being hotwired if the barrel is bypassed,it is possible that there is a fault with your barrel and your not
grtting the voltage drop,I would say that is the next place to look.
Just reread your post,resistor that I fitted was along the grey wire not between grey and brown as you did,but measure the voltage at the battery and
at pin 39 to see if your getting the drop or not.
[Edited on 25/5/09 by eddbaz]
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rf900rush
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posted on 25/5/09 at 10:25 AM |
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Sent U2U
Have you got the 100ohm resistor in the Ignition switch.
Does you FI light/led come on for 2 seconds when the ignition is first turn on.
I have also a modified (coloured) jpg drawing if any help.
Note it's for a B3- model
ZX12R B3- Drawing
Martin
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eznfrank
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posted on 25/5/09 at 09:11 PM |
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Bump - anyone else?? It's still not playing ball!!!
The resistor made no difference at all (when I changed it to the right wire - not brown!!!) although i have one in the barrel anyway so can't
see why i need it. In the third try i put that it didn't even turn over but that was my own dumb ass fault for not connecting the alternator
back up!!!
[Edited on 26/5/09 by eznfrank]
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