phelpsa
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| posted on 28/4/14 at 03:38 PM |
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Check Your Prop Adapter!
Its that time of year again....
Putting the car ready to go testing, grabbed hold of the front prop and it wobbled.... loose prop adapter! If you haven't checked it for a while
it's easy to check and probably worth doing.
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teegray19
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| posted on 28/4/14 at 03:57 PM |
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Il second that! Mine nearly came off recently
Built Formular 27 with 1600cc crossflow, 1700cc 0 miles crossflow, Kawasaki ZZR1100
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theprisioner
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| posted on 28/4/14 at 05:59 PM |
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Is that a BEC?
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.com/
http://austin7special.blogspot.co.uk/
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kj
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| posted on 28/4/14 at 07:07 PM |
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Mine is on thread loco and lock tab fully torqued. Will check after testing
Think about it, think about it again and then do it.
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chrism
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| posted on 28/4/14 at 09:03 PM |
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Ideally what you want if there is space, is a proper motorcycle washer that engages onto the spline and then the end gets hammered up onto the nut to
stop it spinning off, the same as would have been on the front sprocket when the engine was originally in a bike.
I think the reason most dont have these is because the prop adaptors are to deep to allow one to fit onto the spline.
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A little hard work never killed anyone, but why take the risk!
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phelpsa
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| posted on 28/4/14 at 11:59 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by chrism
Ideally what you want if there is space, is a proper motorcycle washer that engages onto the spline and then the end gets hammered up onto the nut to
stop it spinning off, the same as would have been on the front sprocket when the engine was originally in a bike.
I think the reason most dont have these is because the prop adaptors are to deep to allow one to fit onto the spline.
Got one. Unfortunately over time the nut had managed to push the washer off the spline. New washer and nut on order.
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fimi7
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 01:59 AM |
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So what exactly fails. The nut holding to the gearbox or the adapter to the drive shaft?
--- Ali
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ian.stewart
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 08:48 AM |
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Mine is nyloc nut, Nyloc nuts are only meant to be used once for maximum security, alternatively, clean the thread so its grease free, and use
Loctite, If it needs to come off again I would use threadloc, if its unlikely to need to be removed again use studloc.
Something different, Very different..............
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coyoteboy
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| posted on 29/4/14 at 10:21 AM |
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Personally I'd use a better locking combination if you're finding it loosening, if it's a single nut I'd be using a pair and
locking off against each other or drilling and wiring the outer edge of the nut depending on load conditions.
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Matt21
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| posted on 3/5/14 at 03:43 PM |
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i read this thread a while back, and decided to give my prop a wobble the other day, all four bolts loose!
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40inches
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| posted on 3/5/14 at 05:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Personally I'd use a better locking combination if you're finding it loosening, if it's a single nut I'd be using a pair and
locking off against each other or drilling and wiring the outer edge of the nut depending on load conditions.
Unfortunately you can do neither with the nut on a bike engine output shaft. You can barely bend over the tabs on the locking washer, and the nut
leaves no spare thread.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 3/5/14 at 06:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Personally I'd use a better locking combination if you're finding it loosening, if it's a single nut I'd be using a pair and
locking off against each other or drilling and wiring the outer edge of the nut depending on load conditions.
Unfortunately you can do neither with the nut on a bike engine output shaft. You can barely bend over the tabs on the locking washer, and the nut
leaves no spare thread.
Yes you can. Small hole drilled in nut, small hole in adapter, wirelock and voila fit and forget. I also wirelocked all my prop bolts and reverse box
bolts. Mr IVA man was very impressed. Engine was a 98 R1.
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40inches
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| posted on 3/5/14 at 06:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Personally I'd use a better locking combination if you're finding it loosening, if it's a single nut I'd be using a pair and
locking off against each other or drilling and wiring the outer edge of the nut depending on load conditions.
Unfortunately you can do neither with the nut on a bike engine output shaft. You can barely bend over the tabs on the locking washer, and the nut
leaves no spare thread.
Yes you can. Small hole drilled in nut, small hole in adapter, wirelock and voila fit and forget. I also wirelocked all my prop bolts and reverse box
bolts. Mr IVA man was very impressed. Engine was a 98 R1.
Blimey! you must have more space in your adaptor than mine, the socket only just fits in to tighten the nut, but I did buy it 12 years ago 
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rick1962uk
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| posted on 3/5/14 at 06:25 PM |
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why not drill a 3mm thread in the side and screw a grub screw with locktight to hold it
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:{THC}:YosamiteSam
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| posted on 8/5/14 at 07:37 PM |
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i just used thread lock on mine - never had issue - make sure you degrease the threads first tho with something like thinners or something that will
evaporate. then threadlock
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van cleef
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| posted on 9/5/14 at 05:25 AM |
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I've had my adapter come loose at 70 mph which did a lot of damage.
I'm paranoid now and check the bolts religiously.
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Custardpants
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| posted on 20/5/14 at 05:19 PM |
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I paint a small creep line across each bolt to help with a quick visual check for peace of mind along with the usual thread lock etc.
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