tks
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| posted on 2/3/05 at 08:46 AM |
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bias bar
How do you adjust the bias bar?
sorry if it is simple..
and can you only judge the working when their is oil in the circuit???
TKS
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Fifer
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| posted on 2/3/05 at 10:16 AM |
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I set mine so that it had more leverage on the front circuit then at pre SVA MOT test we set the balance. At SVA, the man said it was spot on. You
can then play with it on the track / road to suit yourself.
Worth noting that it must be locked for SVA and not capable of changing.
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tks
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| posted on 2/3/05 at 01:01 PM |
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darling,,
i asked how to set it....
is it a matter of just moving the "bubble" more or less to one side??
or wat???
what kind of thread use the master cilinders... on the pushrod???
it looks like M8 but it locks after 1,5 turn...
TKS
[Edited on 2/3/05 by tks]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 2/3/05 at 08:14 PM |
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Think the threads are 5/16 unf on mine and the brakes need to be bled and adjusted and the car raised with the wheels off the floor adjust the balance
bar until the front wheels lock just before the rears
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helen & phill
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| posted on 2/3/05 at 08:25 PM |
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think were missing the point tks wants to know what to move i.e. the bar left to right or the slave cylinder bars in and out
Must admit i'm not 100% sure as well so would like to know too.
http://www.velocityxt.co.uk/
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Andybarbet
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 12:05 AM |
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As far as i can gather, you thread the master cylinder push rods in or out to adjust, but please correct me if im wrong ??
Also, fitted my pedal box today and did anyone else have to grind the tube away a bit to get the spherical bearing in the brake pedal ? my tube was
about 1mm dia less than the spherical bearing.
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richyb
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 09:27 AM |
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i thought you just adjusted the threaded bar from left to right, which in turn moves the internal sleeve / fulcrum bush, which in turn applies more /
less leverage from one side to the other.
would be ueful for some feedback from luago on this one as its not that clear in the manual - come on guys help us out.
also has anyone used a dirrerent locking method than drilling and pinniing the nuts - i wondered if sva would pass a second slim locking nut ?
a friend of mine who rallies thought there should be a remote adjuster fitment to go on the end of the spindle, with a flexible link to an adjuster in
the cab - thus you could adjust whilst on the track / road ?? - anyone seen this or is he talking out of his ar_e
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Snuggs
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 10:25 AM |
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RichyB is correct.
Both master cylinder push rods should be screwed fully in and then locked.
Also ensure that you fit them the correct way round as they are different sizes.
Clive
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Spider pig, spider pig, does whatever a spider pig does.
I doubt therefore I may be.
Luposlipophobia : Fear of being chased by wolves around a freshly waxed kitchen floor, while wearing only socks on your feet.
My mind not only wanders, sometimes it leaves completely!
http://www.venganza.org
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http://www.snuggs.co.uk
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DarrenW
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 10:54 AM |
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quote:
a friend of mine who rallies thought there should be a remote adjuster fitment to go on the end of the spindle, with a flexible link to an adjuster in
the cab - thus you could adjust whilst on the track / road ?? - anyone seen this or is he talking out of his ar_e
Iam not an expert in bias type pedal boxes at all but know for sure that your mate is NOT talking out of his ar5e. If you look in Demon Tweeks or
similar catalogues you will find the flexi shaft in car adjuster that he refers to, they are an optional extra on the more well known commercial bias
systems. Possibly not of use if you only do road / light track use. They are however very valuable if you race across different surfaces or in
different conditions, im sure the rally boys adjust on the fly depending on wether they are on tarmac or gravel.
For most people the bias bar is mainly to adjust front / back pressures once and for all. There is a train of thought about that bias set-ups are a
little excessive and overkill for most road applications and can unnecessarily complicate the settings. If youve got one then great, if you are
thinking of upgrading i personally would look at other options first.
[Edited on 3/3/05 by DarrenW]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 08:33 PM |
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I've drilled and tapped the "trunnions" that the bias bar screws into from the top and inserted a grub screw into each of them.
Don't yet know if this method is O.K. for S.V.A. so will be taking cordless drill and roll pins just in case. Will post answer after test?
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wilkingj
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| posted on 3/3/05 at 10:27 PM |
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Whats wrong with double nuts and a locking plate between the nuts with bend over tabs on it ?
Its what holds all 4 wheels on my Land rover!
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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coovey
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| posted on 26/8/05 at 06:32 PM |
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Hi Guys
don't think we ever really got to the bottom of this one does any one know how to setup the bias up? some pics would be even better
Cheers
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wicket
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| posted on 26/8/05 at 07:58 PM |
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Here's some info for setting the bias bar
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wicket
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| posted on 26/8/05 at 07:59 PM |
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And info for locking the bias bar for SVA, this is from the SVA manual
[Edited on 26/8/05 by wicket]
 
Rescued attachment SVA_16.jpg
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.jpg)
