DanP
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| posted on 8/10/05 at 04:03 PM |
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viento V8 clutch pedal question...
Hi folks, have just spent the day working on stage 1 of the viento build (fitted the first tunnel panel and the pedal box and master cyls)
I have a question tho... how is the clutch pedal supposed to attach to the clutch master cylinder? I can see how it could be done with a bracket but
the pedal appears to sit exactly where the mster cylinder ram wants to sit (if that makes sense!!)
PS neither of the build manuals on the luego website seem to have any info on wiring up hydraulic clutches
any suggestions or solutions?
Thanks,
Dan
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 8/10/05 at 04:46 PM |
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Didn't Geoff (Wilkingj) have a problem with his clutch? Give him a U2U I'm sure he will help.
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Paul (Notts)
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| posted on 8/10/05 at 05:32 PM |
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there are two types of viento pedal boxes one is a cable clutch the other hydraulic..
is yours the same as this ( hydraulic clutch ) one ?
 
Rescued attachment 12.jpg
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wilkingj
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| posted on 9/10/05 at 08:05 AM |
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Careful here... The Cable box will do both, just different pedal and longer shaft needed to convert. The one in the piccy is Hydraulic only.
difference is clutch is a PULL (on the cable) and hydraulic, is a PUSH on the M/Cyl.
Hence the operating point on the pedal is either above or below the pivot point. hence the different pedals and axle positions / shafts. Cable box has
an extra set of pivot holes above the ones for the Brake pedal. You could weld on a coupld of plates with the right sized holes. But easier to get the
right box.
I used A Land Rover Series 3 clutch m/Cyl. £19 (Genuine Girling) from Paddockspares.com
£9 for the Pattern ones.
£70 from R*mm**s
Its a threaded Bar ended operating pin, so you need the Saddle clamp from Eurpoa spares. (IMPERIAL thread).
Dead easy, needed the most minor of fettling to get a little more travel from it. ie rounded off the inside of the bottom of the "U" to
get a little more travel out of the pedal. Needs one Imeprial nut as a lock nut on the shaft behind the saddle clamp.
Remember that that the thread for the pipe is Imperial as well.
Now fitted and seems to work OK, No wheels on car yet, but can change gear OK, with shafts rotating in mid air 
If its a LT77 box (Rover SD1), the Slave cylinder is a fortune from R*mm**s so I got more from brakepartsinternational.co.uk still £30 odd.. but not
£50
Slave Cylinder has a M12 x1.0 thread. Finding a pipe for this was impossible (for me!) So I used a M12 to 3/16 pipe from Rallydesign I think its a
HU9 for 75p.
route goes:
Slave cyl - m12 adaptor, 3/16 brakepipe to Bracket on Engine mount. I think its a Ford Firesta back brake flexihose M10 brakepipe female both ends
thread. Fiesta Pipe goes to a bracket on the chassis. 3/16 pipe (M10 female nuts fiesta end) to Master Cylinder with 3/16 male brake fitting into the
master cylinder.. seems to work OK.
Cost was bugger all compared to using all the Rover bits from a certain well known Rover Part dealer.
I can make up my own brake pipes, and have done metric to imperail conversions (metric nuts / fittings on 3/16 pipe) on my old Landy and it never gave
me any trouble for over 5 years.
Just use the correct formers for the fitting so you get the right flare for the right fittings. as metric and imperial flares on the pipe ends are
different. But making your own pipes is a doddle to interface them.
I can send you piccies if you really need them I have U2U'd you with my phone No.
You can probbly get away with a Landrover clutch from paddocks.
All 3 bits for £55 not £123 at that other place. I am 90% sure thay are the same size 9" clutch same size cover plate and centre. I have held
BOTH (one from Rimmers SD1 and a paddocks one) side by side and measured every which way and cant see the difference. Except...
The Release bearings ARE different due to the carriers being different and the slipper pads being square on the SD1 and Oval on the Landy. The Plate
and cover seem to be almost Identical. Fine Spline 1" dia. NOT the coarse ones Landys use both 12 and 21? spline.
I HAVE NOT tried this out, but and as sure as I can be about the plate and cover. Anyone done this?
Remember there is a HUGE amount of Commonality in Rover / British Leyland / Land Rover especially the older stuff.
Also MOST of the Clutch splash plates on the net are overpriced. RIMMER DO ONE FOR £13... Hmm NO STOCK last time I asked. I got one off the net for
£15, but had to cut out the slave cylinder bit and re-weld it in. wasnt difficult...
Thats enough for now... Sorry but I am prone to long waffly posts.
Anyone who has met me know I could TALK for England
[Edited on 9/10/2005 by wilkingj]
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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DanP
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| posted on 18/10/05 at 06:02 PM |
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Thank-you geoff, i will have to remember all that when I come to track down a clutch slave cyl, I rummaged around in my box of bits from luego (i
bought a budget blaster) and found what looks like the piece i need to attach the clutch pedal to the master but i think I will just have to shorten
the pushrod of the one that came with my kit.
so hopefully problem is sorted!
Cheers,
Dan
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Dave J
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| posted on 25/10/05 at 10:20 AM |
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Hi Dan,
Luego also supplied my pedal box and the girling Master cylinder. I had precisely the same problem. I had to shorten the threaded push rod on the
master cylinder.
I seem to remember I also had to remove some metal from the clutch pedal where it meets the boss that the pivot bolt goes through as this was fouling
and not allowing full movement of the pedal.
cheers,
Dave
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wilkingj
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| posted on 25/10/05 at 05:01 PM |
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Or get a die, and put a bit more thread on it, and the saw off the excess
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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