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Author: Subject: Pertinent questions to ask when buying?
dhutch

posted on 20/8/08 at 04:05 PM Reply With Quote
Pertinent questions to ask when buying?

Ive been looking at sevens for a year or so now, but have arranged to go at look at one tonight, with the intention of maybe buying it.

Ive had a bit of a rummage for past threads on 'buying guides' and tips, but i was just wondering if there are any key questions i should be asking that i might have forgotten. Partiular seven specific ones.

Clearly the obvous ones are to check the chassis condtion, as well as body work and engine. Maybe ask about its history. Stardard sort of thing?


Daniel

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twybrow

posted on 20/8/08 at 04:11 PM Reply With Quote
Ask who built it, and when? What build documentation/photos are avilable? Is it in the origianl 'as built' consition or has it been 'improved'? Why are they selling?






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Paul TigerB6

posted on 20/8/08 at 04:12 PM Reply With Quote
I'd throw in a couple of technical quesions myself to find out if the seller is an enthusiast or just someone who bought a toy and now needs to sell it as he hasnt a clue about them. I'd rather buy a car of an enthusiast myself who knows how to look after the car
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iank

posted on 20/8/08 at 04:25 PM Reply With Quote
Make sure you know what it is, i.e. Locost, MK, Luego, Caterham, Robin Hood, Locust, something else. Too many people don't know exactly what they've bought and the values are completely different - you wouldn't want to pay Caterham money for a Robin Hood.

Follow up is to ensure the V5 agrees, if it still says sierra, escort or something it obviously isn't (Dutton for example) then run away as it'll need an SVA unless you get lots of proof that is was on the road before SVA came in - too many SVA dodgers out there.





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Anonymous

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Hellfire

posted on 20/8/08 at 04:37 PM Reply With Quote
Take a straight edge with you and make sure all the sections which look straight are straight. Any sign of rewelding around the lower footwells is sign of damage.

Check the rear suspension mounts for any obvious signs of damage from side impact.

Generally the better the finish product with attention to detail kind of ensures you get a better build, though not scientifically proven

The best bit of advice I could give to you is to take someone along who has built one for themselves. They should know what to look for...

Steve






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hughpinder

posted on 20/8/08 at 05:03 PM Reply With Quote
Also, dont forget to find out what car make/model/year all parts of the car are from - may be VW calipers from a polo, front disks from a fiesta .......... if you have the reg number(s)/chassis numbers etc of all donors this will make getting spares much easier in the future.

Regards
Hugh

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chrisj

posted on 20/8/08 at 05:52 PM Reply With Quote
Take it for a spin and check that it doesn't boil ! Make sure that when you get it back keep it running and keep an eye on the standing temperature and oil pressure/oil temp.
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Hellfire

posted on 20/8/08 at 06:32 PM Reply With Quote
Which seven type is it? Locost, Caterham, Westfield, etc... If you could be a bit more specific, maybe other owners could give you a list of things to look out for.

Phil






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dhutch

posted on 20/8/08 at 09:07 PM Reply With Quote
Ive got a few cars in the area im planning to look at if i can. Was going to see one tonight couldnt last minute.

That was a 1990 xflow westy, also hoping to see two pinto engined indys.


Cheers, Daniel.

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David Jenkins

posted on 20/8/08 at 09:31 PM Reply With Quote
Never heard of a 1990cc x-flow - but that doesn't mean it isn't real!

Sort of basic questions I would ask include:

1. Has it been SVA'd? Is there a copy of the MAC certificate? (I have one for my car)
2. Is it correctly registered as a kit (not as the donor)?
3. Do the chassis and engine numbers match up with the registration document?
4. Does the OWNER match up to the registration document?!
5. Does it look cared-for? By which I mean that it may look used, but it's as clean and tidy as reasonably possible, no rust on the working bits (esp. things like wishbones), electrics and control cables neat and tidy, engine bay clean and tidy. Also no stains around and below the water, oil and brake fluid containers. Tyres used but in good order, with even wear and no nicks, bulges, etc.






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BenB

posted on 20/8/08 at 09:59 PM Reply With Quote
I think 1990 was registration (ie pre-lit) not capacity
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rick q

posted on 20/8/08 at 11:21 PM Reply With Quote
One of the most valuable things I got when I bought mine was the builders notes - his note book where all the nasty details were recorded e.g. wiring diagrams, part numbers for odds and sods - that sort of stuff.

It's made replacing parts and fixing things so much easier knowing that I'm looking at a diff from a Mazda XYZ rather than some unknown big black thing. Money in the bank IMHO.

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dhutch

posted on 20/8/08 at 11:22 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BenB
I think 1990 was registration (ie pre-lit) not capacity

Yeah sorry, should have been more clear on that.
- 1700cc, first registed in 1990. Indys are newer cars, 1.6 and 1.8l.


Daniel

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DarrenW

posted on 21/8/08 at 08:35 AM Reply With Quote
Couple of questions you can ask me

1. When can i come and have a look?
2. When can i pay you and pick it up?






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dhutch

posted on 3/9/08 at 11:15 PM Reply With Quote
Just like to say thanks alot to everyone thats helped.

I bought a car tonight, 1991 reg q-plate Westfeild SE with a 1.9l Ford CVH engine. In Yellow.

Photos tomorrow as soon as its light.


Daniel

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iank

posted on 4/9/08 at 08:11 AM Reply With Quote
Excellent, enjoy





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carpmart

posted on 4/9/08 at 02:58 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by dhutch
Just like to say thanks alot to everyone thats helped.

I bought a car tonight, 1991 reg q-plate Westfeild SE with a 1.9l Ford CVH engine. In Yellow.

Photos tomorrow as soon as its light.


Daniel


Come on then, where are the photo's?





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