Hi everyone.
I've got to that stage where I need to start thinking about gear linkages. I'm running a ZZR110 in a Haynes chassis. Not got the prop yet, which a whole other thread and consideration but dunning and Fairbanks who I've spoken to and are just around the corner from where I work are quoting £250-£270 for the prop and adaptor.

Anyway I digress..... Gear link, was thinking "Morse cable" from a boat chandlers local here in Selby. I used something simelar on a 250cc gearbox kart back in the day when I was slim enough to be competitive. It worked well, if a little spongy at times. I did however upgrade to a flipper change on the back of the steering wheel which used two regular Bowden cables. That also worked well without the sponginess.

With the 'road going' nature of my locost build I'm reluctant to go the flipper change due to the switches for indicators etc on the standard sierra column. I did consider briefly electronic shift using buttons etc but then neutral needed the backup of a regular stick so why not just keep it simple with a lever.

Question is really morse control cable or a mass of rose joints and levers? Either way it works out to the same thing. I could use a little inspiration from looking at what others have done.


Hoping to get a floor on Friday, and maybe enough Ali sheet to make the fuel tank. (Yet another bag of worms)

I started with the cable, but found it was not stiff enough. My cable came from MK in the kit I bought. Eventually built my own with Rose joints and chromoly tubing. Much prefer the feel, works well and thats what the caterham comes with. I more or less copied their design (shh don't tell them)..

I know several others on this forum swear by the cable, but I just never liked it..

im at about the same stage in the build as you although i have a prop,

id be interested to keep in touch and see how you get on and what bits you use!

I've been very happy with my homebrew cable set up, definatly not spongy IMHO.
depends on your preference and layout, I guess. I've seen rods woth loads of slop anmd I just didnt fancy that, which is why i went the cable route.
Doing it agaibn, i wouldnt didcount rods if i could do it properly/neatly
Mine does need a newcab le though this ones been on for 4 years and I think its just strating to stiffen, like the teflons worn on the bend

ive got a brand new cable for sale from AB performance. pm me if interested.

Hmmm.... Just been having a little poke around in garage and think I've come up with a linkage solution..... If I can 'snaffle' some rose joints from a place I attend called work, it could turn out a very cheap fix.

On to the next issues.

Fuel tank, need for a swirl pot?

The most important point is not the rose joints, those do not move, the actual pivot point and how stiff and well mounted makes a massive difference.

My first attempt I was not happy, and the current pivot point I will eventually be replaced to reduce the length of travel. One of the benefits of the rose joint setup is you can adjust it to match how much movement you want.

simple bell crank set up works for me

I went through about 3 different bell cranks myself. Everyone I got was a little too wobbly, not 100% happy with the one I have now, but it works for now.

Please sharing the brand and model if you are happy...