Afternoon all,
As some of you may know, a few months back I blew the bird engine in my Indy. I got an X11 replacment, which is the 5 speed tourer version of the blackbird. The engines are near identical, with the cams being different and the gear ratios a bit different, due to being a 5 speed. Otherwise they are the same. My old engine was carb'd, and the new one injection. I bet you can guess where this is going! I have bypassed the clutch, neutral, side stand switch and tilt angle thingy. It's a non HISS ECU, so should now be working. However, it isn't. No sparks and no spraying of fuel. I am now at a loss as to what to do. I have been over it all three times now, and I just can not see either what I've done wrong or missed. The ECU could be knackered as I have no way of testing it.
Now, is it worth perservering, or would going to a power commander solve some/all of my issues? I know a power commander would be better for the engine, but I was hoping to get it running first and then fit one at a later date. Does the power commander have any of the safety circuits in it, or does it ignore them all? How much should I be looking to pay for one?

[Edited on 10/7/07 by DIY Si]

The coils get power, as do the injectors. The fuel pump is seperate to the engine, as it runs off the ignition on the car as I don't have the bike pump or the relay. Could this be a problem? I thought the power commander was a repacment for the ecu? I could easily be wrong though.
Location as per the info bit of the left. Slightly south west of Northampton, Midlands.

Power commanders are in addition to the ECU not a replacement. Have you got the clocks to see if it shows any error codes as the fuel pump may be the problem. On the busa the ECU switches the pump on for a couple of seconds prior to start up.

I have the old carb'd clocks, but not the injection ones.

anti hot wire device possibly, may need a different value resistor
just a guess FWIW

Power Commander just remaps the ignition to give more advance at higher revs. Does your pump give enough pressure for the injection, the carb pump will not be anywhere near enough.

I've changed over to an injection pump, so that shouldn't be an issue. Just in case I'm being really thick, which wire should the anti-hotwire resistor go in? The ECU appears to be powered from the engine stop relay, which I have removed, as it also powers the coils and injectors. There is one wire that I can't decide what voltage it should be at. It runs from the starter relay to the ECU. It also links in with the clutch switch and the neutral diode.

Have I just answered my own problem as the starter relay is not the bike one, and wired independantly, as it was before?

[Edited on 9/7/07 by DIY Si]

Right, we have had some progress.
I now get sparks, but the injectors aren't doing there thing. Does one of the safety systems cut just the fuel? I'm still not 100% I've got the anti hotwire thing right. Which wire should the resistor (470 ohm IIRC) go in, as I can't make out from the wiring diagram where it should go.

Anyone? Or does anyone know of a local-ish place that could sort it out for me?

I know it sounds silly but double check you have connected all the right wires/plugs together properly! I did that mistake and couldnt get a spark! Also-silly but have you connected the fuel hoses the right way round?

Nearly all the plugs are one way fittings, and none of the wires are the same colours, so even I got that right first time, and I did check, just to be sure! The fuel rail (new engine being injection and all) only goes one way, with a big inlet pipe and the pressure reg at the other end, so near impossible to cock that up, as it's sooo much easier than carb's in that respect! It did take me a week to get the right part to attach it all though, so I made sure everything else was right (a far as I can tell anyways) whilst waiting.