I've posted the below in the chassis section, but included it here as you midy guys probably are used to more weight over the rear suspension.

OK I've welded the rear shocks on, it gives about 1" ground clearance with the bumps fully compressed and 2" as it starts to hit the stops

This gives just over 10cm of suspension travel, with the car resting at about 6cm, leaving 4-5cm of upwards travel.




am I going to get away with this based on the photo + measurements above or do I need longer shocks?


James

[Edited on 31/10/06 by cloudy]

[Edited on 1/11/06 by cloudy]

This is a hard question to answer. But I'd think you'd want 2" at least of clearance at full bump. From reading the book a typical locost has ~5" of static clearance and ~2" of travel from there to get to full bump.

More of a worry to me would be having the shock laid over that far. Effectively the suspension will get softer as its compressed, which if anything is the reverse of what you want to happen. I'd get the shock as upright as possible.

Also I'd not want to put the load into the middle of the tube like that at the top end, hopefully you're planning bracing on it?

Similarly at the lower front wishbone point I'd want that braced, I guess I assume that theres going to be a lot more bracing everywhere?

But I'm possibly too worried about that sort of thing, after all I've been tinkering with my design for over a year now and still not got a single weld done.

Doug.

The angle isn't far off the angle most sevens seem to use at the front, perhaps I could compensate by using rising rate springs?

Obviously the angle is a trade off, the further you lean it the more travel at the wheel you get. where does 10cm sit compared regards "normal" middy travel?


as regards bracing, yes theres a tube that goes horiztontally from the top shock mount across to the other



[Edited on 1/11/06 by cloudy]

Just because most 7's do it doesn't make it the best way to do it.
If you look at the front end of a 7 either you have 3 choices:
1. Do what most people do now.
2. Use a push rod type suspension.
3. Build a really ugly frame out the side of the nose to get the shock more upright.

So given the choices I can understand why most people go for choice 1.

10cm (4" is exactly what I'm working around myself and basically what you get from a book built Locost also.

I expect ~5cm to be used by the static load of the car leaving ~5cm movement left for bump absorption.

Doug.

that's pretty much how it is, i'll go with it for now, I can always redo it later with longer shocks so they can be upright - the beauty of having no bodywork!

James

quote:

---

3. Build a really ugly frame out the side of the nose to get the shock more upright.

---

rough upright

Anyone know of anywhere to get high range top joints for cortina hubs? I've heard these discussed before. Basically it jams up before the bump stops will be reached, which of course is pretty dangerous.

James

I'm starting to have reservations on the design so far - it looks malproptioned a little when I wheel it out of garage.

I'm still not 100% happy that the design is the best shape I could choose, what's the general feeling about taking off roof and using a roll hoop design as below, allows the main body to sit much lower....

haven't seen any responses so i've progressed a litte, what do you think?

plan view

This one loks MUCH better and MUCH more professional looking styling.
Aren't the side bards to close to the drivers and passenger heads on the bottom 2 pics?
I think it would look rely nice with just the side pannels, air intake at the front F1 "nose up" style and opend rear like the Porsche 917 racing car.
What software are you using for the design?




[Edited on 18/11/06 by ZEN]

Looks very nice, but I thought the original looked good

The side bars do seem very close to the drivers head - not good in an accident. The optional ones on the sylva r10t and full cages on 7's tend to kick out as far as practical.

Also it won't be as ridged as the full cage version, but it looks close to a balsa model I made a while back which was pretty good.

cheers guys, it's 3dsmax 7 i'm using, given up trying to figure out solidworks! you are right on the proximity to head - will have to mull that one over...

The old design looked very odd at certain angles (especially the back) , so far this is OK from all

Here's a slightly more refined version, still not happy with the shape of roll bar, and obviously it can't sit on the middle of a tube as per the current design...

Firstly I applaud your desire to be original, there's not enough of that these days.

Maybe its the angle of the view but the roll bar looks too low to touch down before the occupants head does.
On the same vein either the seats are too short or those are big wheels?

I'd push the roll tube back to match up with the rear bulkhead then it can be one tube all the way up over and down again. You can then cut holes for the side tubes to pass through. which means even if the welds fail it can't come apart.

I do like the concept though, I had thought of doing a similar thing at one point using flat ally or carbon panels screwed in between the tubes to form the body work.

I've been using Solid Edge which due to my CAE background didn't take too long to work out. The 'arty' packages are still a mystery having tried Studio Tools PLE etc. As at some point I'm going to have to go back and have a look again, did you settle on 3DSMax for a reason, or was it just what came to hand?

Wow! I think this new design looks damn sexy! I already like the original, but it just gets better and better every time you alter the design!

*joins the requests for an entry-level kit*

If the roll bar is level with the driver's eye which it looks like there you will need a hoist to get in and out of the car. Your vision will be severely restricted by the bar in front of you as well. The roll bar and seats look out of proportion.

[Edited on 18/11/06 by Peteff]

yeah, still progressing with the design - took the grinder to the chassis this morning took off the old roof

Sat in it to get head height measurement, and therefore the roll bar height required...


James

OK, the bars along shoulders are now further apart - and the roll bar is the correct height.

Not sure on the shape? would a plain hoop be better? or maybe two hoops?



James

Hello Cloudy,

The new design looks much better than the one with the roof on it. And very original I must say. In my opinion build a plain hoop.
One question, how do you get in the car? Climbing over the upper frame tubes doesn’t seems practical.

Greets Roy.

I love the design! Leave the hoop as it is now, it looks great! However, are you sure the scale of the seats/driver is correct in respect to the rest of the car? Or are you running 24 inch wheels? It just seems a bit off..

Yes i'll be just climbing in over the chassis! Shoulda seen me trying to get in the roofed one! I'll go with the old standard plain hoop - I won't be able to make the bendy one with the bender i've got access to anyway...

I've measured it simulating the recline of the replacement seat, the 3d copy man is probably a little on the small side!

Here's a pic I took, however these seats are going in favour of some more reclined ones, i've used this lower measurement in the 3d copy



[Edited on 19/11/06 by cloudy]

[Edited on 19/11/06 by cloudy]

[Edited on 19/11/06 by cloudy]

The chassis has a very sexy line to it. But I must caution you on the use of the upper frame tube in it's current position. It is too close to the head. A side impact and the bar will definitely impinge on the head. You simply cannot forsee that everyone driving this vehicle would wear a helmet and it's possible that even with a helmet, a side impact of medium or large intensity will cause serious neck and or head injury. Please re-evaluate this!

Graber

Wouldn't that problem be fixed by fitting those rally seats that keep the head in place? (ya know, like a bucket seat but with extra 'flaps' to keep the head/helmet from bouncing all over the place for when the going gets rough...)

Sortof like this:



Only way less ugly and probably a helluvalot cheaper that $1,700.

Or this:


Ohh well, ya get the idea..

I taken your comments on board, i'll look into a solution

James

I think SVA would throw a fit if you try to use seats with the side restraints, due to the reduced peripheral vision.

In the picture what the heck is the remote controlled do-dad with the camera strapped to then?

Hmm... maybe you could simply cover those bars with rollbar padding? It looks kinda cool without any body panels. Just add padding to the chassis around the driver area.

the doodad is a (now) PC tele operated exploration robot I built, tested 1km range - theoretical 5km range

some video from the field trials

http://www.digital-car.co.uk/video/trials.wmv

I built it in the times the car was giving me grief and I needed something else to work on....

Some progress, sorry for the awful pic - it was dark.....




Now thinking about fuel tank placement, its the half round object in the back center of this render. Is this a really bad idea for location? Shame as it works well in this orientation....

Is it going to have an engine, where is it going to fit and how are you going to get it in there? There's not going to be a lot of options with the bar from the roll bar over the gap behind the seats and the diff cage and suspension there as well.

read back through the thread before asking stupid questions!

Yes it will have an engine, a new concept I know
It's a motorbike engine, and it's already included in that render if you look carefully!

James

I have to say I share the concern about getting in and out with the side bars so high.

Like the design though and I think you are definatelly on the right lines.

this won't be a luxurious ride! you will need to get in by stepping in on the bar

I expect the discomfort to continue during the journey with the engine exhausts behind your head, and the possiblility of wheels falling off....


James

I posted earlier in the thread and you answered that you had removed some bars if you go back over the thread. I view things from a practical perspective and think other people do the same. If something looks right it probably is and the bar over where your engine drops in doesn't look right to me, possibly a bar either side with a gap in the middle. Show me the engine in place with a viable drive solution and I'll admit I'm stupid. I have built cars and driven them and helped build cars from scratch and from kits and have a good idea of what works.

The top bar is removable, yes the engine fits through the gap, and yes the entire drivetrain fits. I may be new to this and learning, I am not however, stupid.

James

Like - lets chill dudes!
I think that there's plenty of pre-Christmas tension in the air at the moment.

James,

I love it. Like the look, the idea and your execution. Nice!

I agree with others that the topmost horizontal tubes near the passengers heads need moving for safety and that the rear bulkhead outer tubes and rollbar should be one. Does seem to be a lot of unusable space behind the drivers seat.

The gas tank is right out there. Could you fit one in the front, forward of the passengers feet? That way it'll help balance the car and keep it inside the frame away from annoying SUVs and whatnot.

-Steve

Sorry, bad day!

I've built the entire car around the engine, it fits in the space, as i've already hoisted it in to check, I wanted the minimum wheelbase I could get away with

Agreed on the tubing near the head - Im' still mulling that one over!

James

you can see here how it fits in the space:

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
this won't be a luxurious ride! you will need to get in by stepping in on the bar

I expect the discomfort to continue during the journey with the engine exhausts behind your head, and the possiblility of wheels falling off....


James

---

lol i'll be sure to provide a video for your entertainment


James

Will that mean you will also be wearing tights?

See, that's all it needed, now it makes sense. Is it mounted same as the bike with a chain driven diff? I can't see it in your render although I have looked.

yeah, sorry for going off on one - yeah its a chain driven cossie diff

James

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
yeah its a chain driven cossie diff

---

I bought the entire rear axle from ebay. Then took the diff out of the casting, knocked the bearings off - made up some spacers and fitted sealed block units. Then had B&C express make up the correct sprocket to match up with the crown mounts

James

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I bought the entire rear axle from ebay. Then took the diff out of the casting, knocked the bearings off - made up some spacers and fitted sealed block units. Then had B&C express make up the correct sprocket to match up with the crown mounts

---

The fuel tank looks relatively small 20L or less?
If thats the case why not put it on top of the engine behind the roll bar, essentially where it'd be on the bike?
I had a 1993 GSXR-1100WP it didn't have a fuel pump so going for gravity feed may be cause less aggro in the carburation dept.
Given a small tank i don't think the change in height of the CofG would be much to worry about.

yeah i'm tempted to do it that way, trouble is the shape, its very tall and thin - I was hoping to have the nice curved back polished and engraved with the logo for that extra something, so wanted it to be on show. I know 7's have it right at the back, but they have the fibreglass offering *some* protection. What do people reckon?

James

On your car I'd put it between the front wheels if there is room, this is what I have done and it keeps the variable weight low and protected by the chasis.

Most ideal place for it though is right in the centre of the car, but not very practical.

I'm hugely lacking in space at the front end, I *might* manage it but it would be VERY close to a front impact, just a bit of a worry

James

I've seen triangular (prism shaped) tanks that fit behind the seats. Good weight distribution, but you lose the helpful little space that can be used for weathergear and an emergency toolkit.

quote:

---

Originally posted by iank
I've seen triangular (prism shaped) tanks that fit behind the seats. Good weight distribution, but you lose the helpful little space that can be used for weathergear and an emergency toolkit.

---

I'm really intrigued by your chassis shape and I think it has a lot of potential. It just looks 'fast' sitting still and that's great. I would like to know about the sightlines for the driver and have you done any modeling or research into that and let me tell you what I am thinking. The trouble right now is the side bar and the head, Your current seating is very upright. So why not recline the seating position drastically and get the noggin below the bar? Then remove the crosstube in front of the passenger area, replaced by a triangulation brace forward. That would open the sight line to the front, and lowering the head would give you a sight line out between your top tubes?

Just an idea....

Graber

I don't now how wide the area between the seats is, but MR2 MK1's have very slim tanks in the transmissiontunnel, maybe one of those would fit your needs,

they're steel items so easily modified

here's a piccie



That would sureley be the best spot to put the tank cog wise and safetywise

Nice going there btw!

grtz Thomas

[Edited on 22/12/06 by thomas4age]

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I'm hugely lacking in space at the front end, I *might* manage it but it would be VERY close to a front impact, just a bit of a worry

James

---

The thought with my previous post was to tip it so the flat was on the bottom.

I'm sure I've seen more than one trike with a beer keg as a petrol tank and those things are near indestructible (the keg that is)!

In my design the tanks on the floor behind the seats BTW, but I want to have 40L+ on tap.

Dick Bear has really neat pictures of doing it this way where he used 2 separate tanks.

Merry Christmas!

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I was thinking of perhaps redoing the chassis when I got bored, and i'd like to loosely base the design on this:

James

---

To answer your comments,


sgraber - many thanks, re: the seats - that's the current plan, but as you rightly point out reclining the seats may bring out serious visibilty problems, at the moment it's fine - I will have to do a bit of experimentation when it's warm enough to get back out to the garage

erwe: That car is an australian concept I can't remember the name - it's similar to the caparo T1, will post if i can think of it
EDIT: It's the "Hulme F1"


as regards the tank, it fits well where it is, and would be great for a logo, (see latest renders) - any comments on whether this is safe 'enough'





J

[Edited on 23/12/06 by cloudy]

I haven't read the entire thread, so maybe I missed it, but my only concern is how close the driver's head is to the side bars. As long as the helmet isn't optional.

Other than that, I think it's fantastic.

Well the tank does have some chasis protection at the rear, my only real concern is that it is above the engine so if it does get damaged.......

But lets be realistic here, bikes have them above the engine, and many other kits have them completely unprotected and by the engine.... so if thats what you want, go for it.

Now its been pointed out, Kb has a very good point about how close your head is to that top rail.

yeah its been pointed out numerous times, I have a few ideas - the only practical one so far is to step the curved tubes lower for the cabin but it totally ruins the lines - Still scratching my head on this one.

tank would be behind the engine (over the diff)

J

James

How about lowering the top one 2inches or so and also the one below it by similar amount.

Have you also considered curving the lower bar to a similar shape to the upper one? I think that would compliment the lines well.

BTW It's looking awsome at the moment, great project.

the lower half has all been built as per my other version, I don't want to have to rip up any more than I have already.....

James

Id be happy with the tank there. Maybe use a fuel cell inside the metal tank? Dont know lots about them but some sort of tear proof tank sounds a good idea

Hello James,

Because I had nothing better to do on this Sunday morning. I did some brainstorming, how to get the upper curved tubes free from the driver’s head. And not to disturb the lines of your buggy. Probably taking the upper tube higher, would be the only solution to not hit your head. And it makes it easier to get in and out of the car. Perhaps you can do something with this idée.

Happy Christmas, greets Roy.
Rescued attachment roofless_sketch.JPG

interesting approach, I'll have a play about with it - thanks

I don't like the high bars..

Just make it a center-steered single-seater!

i like the high bars myself. I would also make it a centred single seater, but have a pair of 'seats' on either side (more like padding and harnesses) so that you can still have passengers. I know a bec isnt ideal for a 3 seater but when theres no one in it, its only a few kilos extra, and i think the centre driving position would make up for it - especially the better corner balance.

quote:

---

Originally posted by akumabito


Just make it a center-steered single-seater!

---

I wonder if you could cross those top two tubes or make a halo and join the front and rear to the halo?

-Steve

This style has been done before

http://twintechcars.com/

quote:

---

Originally posted by JoelP
......... I would also make it a centred single seater, but have a pair of 'seats' on either side (more like padding and harnesses) so that you can still have passengers..........

---

must be a good idea then! I have plans from '04 and a lawyer at the ready! lol

quote:

---

Originally posted by designer
This style has been done before

http://twintechcars.com/

---

I like this chassis. I like the high bars. When you compare frame designs, ask yourself, which one whould I prefer to be strapped into when the car rolls through the fence and down a bank. High bars win. Note that F1 cars have special inserts each side of the cockpit to limit the sideways movement of the helmet. Obviously the bars will need to be padded. I like the idea of making the finish shape of the car in the frame. But this can have weight liabilities if the resulting frame shape gets compromised when it comes to getting ridged support to the suspension etc mounting points. Permission to rave sir? My preferred concept is (a) make the suspension and engine mounts and seat mounts and roll-over protection frame. (b) locate all these in space. (c) joint them all with straight tubes (d) make it all triangles with extra tubes (e) make closed solid shapes (pyramids etc) with more tubes to give torsional stiffness (f) then start making compromises and contrivences so there is actual space the the engine and driver etc... but try not to compromise the step (e) structural achievements. Shouldn't need to use anything stronger than 20mm ms tube with 1.6 wall. Might not look so svelt, but gets best stiffness for weight. Cheers, Brian

If I may chime in, the overall design is quite pleasing to the eye, but as has been previously noted, the high side bars are lethal. Also very important is that they'll be a distraction and create a claustrophobic effect. If you've a light car, it should feel light, not like a coffin. Don't be a slave to fashion.

The side tubes appear to be at eye-level. If so, the driver has no peripheral vision, and to see what coming from the sides means raising or lowering the head to see above or below them.

OK, two possible solutions - after some feedback from you guys...

I'd vote for the second option. Looks less fussy to my eye, and can't obscure vision to the mirror (might just be the angle it's rendered) or the front wheel (nice to see exactly where you are putting it.

Second option me definately. I laid out the basics of a midi design in CAD and came up against all the same problems as you. I had to get rid of the files as it was driving me mad. I really admire the work you have done so far.

I can't photoshop it but I quite like removing the top rail as your second picture, replacing it with the bracing as you have from the scuttle back down to the mid (or new top rail) AND similar bracing from the rear down to the mid (or new top rail) at around a 45deg angle. To me it looks better with the extra triangle.

I quit the idea of making my own middy because it took me a year to decide between a +4 and a +442 Locost and I realised I would never build a thing at my rate of descision making.

I am following your progress (and JC's) with immense interest, I wish I had the bottle to go for it as you have. I think your car is fantastic.

thanks both of you

I prefer different soluctions depending on the angle viewed, I'll play around with a few more ideas.

Mansfied, i'll give your idea a spin later, just have to avoid introducing the problem again, as anything there is instantly close to the head

James

James,

I haven't kept up with your thread in a while but did my usual backwards reading of it today. It is great to see the progress and the suggestions at each stage in your design process. Brings the best out in everyone! The result so far is a great looking and a promising solution to an original build... keep it goin'!

I wish you had picked up the moon rover just once so we could see its' camparable size. Pushing the barrel up the hill was the only time that a perspective of size could be judged.

I'm sending the clip to my son in California who is an active DP (Director od Photography), thought perhaps he would be interested in its use in filming from angles and environments not suitable for current rails, slides or other contraptions.

Now if you can only make the little monster clean up the junk in your yard.... you'd really have something!
Kidding, of course!

Dick Bear

I'm baffled by your last 3 paragraphs?

James

I'ms sorry James that was a bit of a curve ball but wasn't meant to be.

I was refering to the link you posted on page 5 of this thread and the video of the RC car. That's what i get for reading things backwords. The first intallments are thought of as the most recent and sometimes I forget that what is news to me is old news to those who do things more conventionally.

http://www.digital-car.co.uk/video/trials.wmv

I hope this makes sense to you now.

Dick Bear

ah right with you now. It was way too big and heavy for the usages I require - so it's currently being scaled down. Going back to tracked drive to allow it to use stairs...

Put the tank behind the seats, there's plenty of space (so it could be bigger), it's safer, AND it improves weight distribution.

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy

as regards the tank, it fits well where it is, and would be great for a logo, (see latest renders) - any comments on whether this is safe 'enough'


[Edited on 23/12/06 by cloudy]

---

Designwise I prefer the first option, although as other have pointed out, the second option is much more practical.

Love it!
Really fresh concept, that front end looks spot on IMO and I think using panels here and there as needed rather than hiding everything in a jelly mould is a very good idea.

I'm a beliver in form follows function so I tried extending the tubes in the second render so they run right back to the roll hoop, which should make the chassis stiffer and probably a bit stronger.
Also added another diagonal bracing the roll hoop. Is it a bit too functional??

Fuel tank in the space behind the seats seems logical to me too - keeps it low and central, and in the part of the car which is best protected in a crash - at lleast you'd hope so if you're going to be strapped in there!

Someone mentioned fitting exhausts in. If space is a problem, they could be run forwards between the seats in a very narrow 'tunnel', which needn't be structural - just folded ali sheet for example. Then exit at the front somewhere, may help with fitting in silencers as well. Its worked pretty well that way on my middy project - see pics.
Not sure how that would work if you had tank behind the seats as well though.

Anyway, just some ideas to add to the pot, keep up the good work!
Rescued attachment middy car.jpg

I quite like the straight tubes actually, they echo the tube below nicely, I also like the extra bracing on the roll hoop.

have actually welded the roll hoop to the chassis at the weekend, but found despite many measurements sitting in the car - I just dont feel it's high enough to be safe without having a very laid back driving position. Trouble is as soon as I put even just the 8cm rise I calculate will make it safe, it destroys the proportions entirely

I will produce some more updated renders with the revised roll hoop tonight, you guys are always great for fresh idea's

James

OK easier to just photoshop the change on, here's it with the revised height. Those rear braces certainly help to avoid it looking like an after thought towering above the chassis.

But it still look a lot less sleek than I'd hoped for. Obviously this is a fixed measurement - any ideas where i might be able to rescale to reduce the apparent height?





James

[Edited on 16/1/07 by cloudy]

[Edited on 16/1/07 by cloudy]

Hmmm, the high-hoop is definitely less sexy looking, but safety is more important than looks, I guess.

I still like this look best though, it gives a really nice look to the car:


Perhaps you cold try something like that again? With the higher rollbar you just might have enough headroom..

I guess that would make it more similar to this:



Idunno... it may make things easier if you'd ever decide to fit weather gear

truth is none of these designs appeal to me like the original one with the complete curves did - it's just starting to look boxy like the first one did again. Might revert to this design and try and again find a solution to the head + visibility problem...

James

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
truth is none of these designs appeal to me like the original one with the complete curves did - it's just starting to look boxy like the first one did again. Might revert to this design and try and again find a solution to the head + visibility problem...

James

---

I hear's you still cannot see any traffic to the left or right though

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I hear's you still cannot see any traffic to the left or right though

---

I feel your pain.
Go back to the beginning keep what you liked ditch the rest and keep going until you get something that works.

And remember whatever you make will be better looking than the thing below
Rescued attachment pontiac_aztek_2001_01_b.jpg

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
have actually welded the roll hoop to the chassis at the weekend, but found despite many measurements sitting in the car - I just dont feel it's high enough to be safe without having a very laid back driving position. Trouble is as soon as I put even just the 8cm rise I calculate will make it safe, it destroys the proportions entirely

I will produce some more updated renders with the revised roll hoop tonight, you guys are always great for fresh idea's

James

---

looks like that's the magic measurement then!

James

James,
your original design is cool but the progressive edits are moving further from what you wanted and closer to many designs that have already been used - Atom etc. etc.
Keeping the reclined seating, are you able to scale up the design slightly and raise the offending top rail and incorporate it as a roof line? Maybe use gullwing doors or Nova styled front hinged roof. You could then keep the original proportions.

regards

Steve

Working long hours at the moment, so not much progress - but I finally got the correct fuel parts, so I gave the engine a good thrashing. Gives me some inspiration to keep going!

With some inspiration I saw on MK engineerings site for a roll bar, I think i've cracked the issue with making a roll bar that's tall enough for safety that also doesn't make it look overly tall

I see you've been working your magic again in the MEV thread Fuoriserie - feel free to experiment on mine too!

Thoughts?








Oh and also - I know you all like videos here's that engine run up from last weekend. Don't worry the engine was up to temp and I was just checking the rev limiter...
http://www.digital-car.co.uk/wr4/r4_engine.wmv

it certainly ticks the boxs for me

I must say, I REALLY like that shape. I think you nailed it.

Agree time to tack tubes I'd say.

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy

I see you've been working your magic again in the MEV thread Fuoriserie - feel free to experiment on mine too!

Thoughts?
http://www.digital-car.co.uk/wr4/r4_engine.wmv

---

Looks superb

If it were me and for give the rubbish photochop I'd make the mods below:

Also the front tube going over the dash is shown as 3 bits welded together if this were one bent tube with the fore-aft tube butting into it it'd look much better I think.

Top man for sticking at it!
Rescued attachment altrollbar1.jpg

I also wanted to suggest Doug's mods.

Cheers

Fred W B

Doug has a point, the previous setup would risk folding in half in a serious rollover.

I like you're thinking doug although it would be destroying a lot of chassis that has already been built - would look something like this....





[Edited on 22/2/07 by cloudy]

[Edited on 22/2/07 by cloudy]

[Edited on 22/2/07 by cloudy]

Yep, that's it.

I'm moving forward with this new design - thanks everyone for the great input

Sorry about the messy garage!

OK the fun old job of mounting the steering rack this coming weekend. I've bought myself a laser level to visualize my bump steer, but where should I be mounting rack fore/aft? should the rack arms be straight at centered steer?

James

Go get yourself a copy of the Race & Rally Car Source book it'll explain what you need to do better than any answer you'll (probably) get here.

[Edited on 7/3/07 by Doug68]

It's too quiet in the middy section of late, we are all slacking!

Last weekend I put my new digital angle gauge to good use, by setting up the front suspension for 6 degrees of castor. Also tested out the laser level method of bump steer checking, which seems to work a treat. Next weekend I hope to get the rack positioned and mounted. Cleared up the build area a little....

A bigger job is to extend the car to give another 10-15cm in the cabin, another mis-calculation on my part

All part of the learning experience I suppose - although I seem to be having more of the experience than most

Another render as I'm bored in work today!

any comments on suitability/improvements to this rack mount i've designed? It's based around the locost mount, but uses 3mm plate boxed into an L profile for strength

I'd brace directly between the mounts parallel to the tubes as close as possible to the rack and then use just one diagonal.

Something strange happened when I tried to position out the bump steer, the rack had to sit a lot lower than the line between the pivots rule would suggest.

I believe the reason for this is because of the unequal length wishbones, which obviously add camber in bump, which in turn move the steering arm in and toe out occurs. Presumably this applies to locosts that also have unequal length wishbones, I cannot see any others with such a low mounting point however?

Any ideas? Should I just go with it here as it's resulting in least bump steer - or do I have another problem at play here?

I resently worked through a similar rack and bump-stear problem with a friend's car. I suspect, that low position that you have indicated will give a small amount of bump stear with small suspension movement, and then will get very bad if the suspension moves further.

Long and short wishbones is not a problem. But the suspended tierod needs to be in proportion. As an initial set up, if the outer end is at say 30% of the vertical distance between the suspension joints, then it should also be 30% of the vertical distance between the suspension joints at the inboard end. The length of the suspended tierod should then be proportional to it's location. i.e. average of upper and lower wishbone if it is located at mid point, ands correspondingly longer or shorter if it is not.

When I was doing this we made up a very crude dummy tierod for one side and made endless 5mm adjustments with clamps and blocks of wood etc. Using a two meter long bar attached to the hub, to measure bump stear, you can expect to get the end of a 2m bar staying within 20mm of a vertical line as you move the hub up and down 200mm.

because there are several dimensions that you can change, and you can't be sure what the effect is going to be, keeping good records of your trials is important. We used a spreadsheet to plot the results, and that helped zero in on the optimal tierod length and inboard location.

You are very likely to find that your rack is too long or too short. Nothing you can do about this except change the length some how. be sure that you have the ackerman angles that you want at this stage, as any change in the stearing arm on the hub for this reason will directly affect the length of the rack, if you want to keep zero bump stear.

let me know if you want more (clearer) description of the way we did this.

Cheers, Brian

looks like the rack is too wide to me.....

That's the odd thing though, it is adhering to the proportion rule in that it's sitting proportionally about the same height as the steering arm. I'm only measuring around 2 cm of deviation of the laser on the wall about 4 meters away, which by my calculations is about half a degree of bump steer, which must be pretty good?

James

That sounds very good. For that deviation, is that moving the hub through it's full range of suspension movement?

damn, now the bump steer is better (rack still needs shortening) The TRE's bind at full bump

It would be ok if the pivot went through the uprights, upright - but its at a funny angle, common problem?

James

I don't know if you stumbled across my other threads, but was basically having all sorts of travel issues.
I've managed to get around this by raising all mounts and moving upper mounts inboard allowing for a longer top wishbone (via adjuster) and therefore less angle on the top joint for a given deflection...
(The top mounts will be webbed in, just temporarily mounted in the pic)

Only complete on one side, but happy to be over this hurdle. Well aside from needing to find different TRE's or bend the rack ends

I promise better updates soon!



[Edited on 2/4/07 by cloudy]

[Edited on 2/4/07 by cloudy]

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I don't know if you stumbled across my other threads, but was basically having all sorts of travel issues.
I've managed to get around this by raising all mounts and moving upper mounts inboard allowing for a longer top wishbone (via adjuster) and therefore less angle on the top joint for a given deflection...
(The top mounts will be webbed in, just temporarily mounted in the pic)

Only complete on one side, but happy to be over this hurdle. Well aside from needing to find different TRE's or bend the rack ends

I promise better updates soon!



[Edited on 2/4/07 by cloudy]

[Edited on 2/4/07 by cloudy]

---

Sorry no updated pictures yet - i've been slacking!!

I have a new render though

Just stop doing renders then you lazy bum!
Looking good though so far.

I'll go out and get cracking tomorrow if the garage isn't underwater of course....

[Edited on 27/5/07 by cloudy]

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Sorry no updated pictures yet - i've been slacking!!

I have a new render though

---

That's 3dsmax using the mental ray renderer


James

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
That's 3dsmax using the mental ray renderer


James

---

Bit more done on the chassis:





Here's a pic with the roll bar taped on at correct height - looks huge in comparison to the rest, any good ideas for a clever shape or reducing the height i'll need?

Painting the bar darker than the frame should reduce it's impact.

T

What's it look like when someones sitting in it?
I expect it will look just right then.
To me aesthetically it looks just fine the way it is.
If you don't like it though maybe disguise by mounting the rear wing off it or something like that?

Thanks to 'rickys2000' for lending me his engine hoist - which will allow me to drop the engine in saturday!

James

That looks really good.........I like your latest chassis design.....

Italo

The engine is mounted, I couldn't resist starting it up (with the help of some gaffa tape!) - here's a vid
http://www.digital-car.co.uk/wr4/r4firststart.wmv

and some pics:











[Edited on 7/7/07 by cloudy]

It looks simply SMASHING!!!!

Can you tell me the wheelbase and width (out to out) front and rear?

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
The engine is mounted, I couldn't resist starting it up (with the help of some gaffa tape!) - here's a vid
http://www.digital-car.co.uk/wr4/r4firststart.wmv
[Edited on 7/7/07 by cloudy]

---

It works OK for me, a bit slow to buffer but it gets there.
you could also right click and "save as".

Its coming along nicely!

I particularly like the part where you duck in to get the ear defenders!

And the exhaust routing may need a bit of a rethink

Steve,

Wheelbase: 229cm

Track front and rear(out to out) 162cm

James

Thanks to some rack extensions from MAC#1 i've installed the steering system.

It feels fairly smooth - but does this look like too much of an angle for the UJ? (It's around 45 degrees)



[Edited on 25/7/07 by cloudy]

I think that angle will be ok as long as you don't feel a 'hitch' at any specific point as it rotates?

However... I am not too happy with your rack mounts. At least not if you are leaving it that way... They should be much beefier.

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Thanks to some rack extensions from MAC#1 i've installed the steering system.

It feels fairly smooth - but does this look like too much of an angle for the UJ? (It's around 45 degrees)



[Edited on 25/7/07 by cloudy]

---

maybe you could replace the fibre disk joint with a UJ and split the angle between the 2 UJs. this way you can get exact CV between the steering wheel and the rack. I have been surprised to find how many cars use common splines in their steering systems. If you use Toyota stuff you can find shafts and UJs of all lengths that can be cobbled together.

Good idea - I think rally design sell a compatible UJ

There is no notching of the UJ, just thinking about logievity

The rack mounts are not finished, I have both an X brace to prevent sideways movement and a another two to prevent any fore-aft movement

Hi !
It is time to promote this design in to Mk I ( beta version ) of official locostbuilders`s mid engine car?
Many good and competent gay are included in discussion and I suppose that exist general agreement about look and strength and easy to build quality of this particular design
Or I am wrong and this is only special BEC construction not strong enough to carry MOST of contemporary FWD car modules (many Japan models , WV , PSA group of France etc. .. etc)?
I am sorry not to hear Rorty opinion here (read historical tread : http://locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=34017 )
At least I am middle aged man ( mid.... if you assume that life expectancy are about 100years!) and not have a time to wait next 50 y. for new FWD locost.
Spend last 2-3 y. on the NET looking for something that I can build ( in the first time buggy , lather super 7 and at the end middy with Suzuki Swift 1.3 GTI module ...single seater may be for general safe?)
My "neighbor" kikiturbo have nice space frame single seater and I waiting for final conclusion
after careful FEA work (whatever mean that).
May be I can finally bay plans from somebody similar to Book Design and finish little screamer before going to die("Never attempt to build locost after 40thy probably you not drive them"
cheers to all

[Edited on 26/7/07 by nkosta]

quote:

---

Originally posted by nkosta
....It is time to promote this design in to Mk I ( beta version ) of official locostbuilders`s mid engine car?......

---

I wouldn't even volunteer my own car for it! I'm brand new to all this and i'm making it up as I go - far better designed by someone with experience...

James

With all my heart I support diversity ( ..of species ....Charles Darwin my favored tuner ) And concern and modesty of some"non experiencing " but generous people .... but IMHO its time that Lord ( Law and Order) take things in hands ''
I t is time to make some basic recommendation about tube material ,cockpit , front end , front suspension etc. .. etc at least in level of so many Book design ? . Ariel Atom established one particular point of view and slowly become standard. Especially with this large-long- curved good looking tubes up ( a MUST for mid engine?) . It is time to identified a couple most affordable front end donor? .. across the world of course. Many good gay almost finished their FEA-patran - nastran work
At the end this while help diversity its self
Good plan and numerous variants of this plan are key for longevity
Who are a Jim McSorley in mid-engine-transverse mounted kingdom?
(sorry splecheckered English)
Thank you for patience
kosta

[Edited on 27/7/07 by nkosta]

It's still coming along,

Brakes are in and almost completed gear change assembly...

Have been throwing some idea's round for a 1+1 revision to the chassis to be completed after mk1 is complete - a few renders...

The basic layout:


Atomesque?

The design for the "transmission tunnel" for the current car

was hoping for some input there on the 1+1 design


Just weighed the car today, 345kg minus floor, exhaust and diff - on the heavy side!
I will definately have to rebuild the chassis at some point with lighter tube and be more intelligent with my space frame attitude

Weight distribution is 58:42 rear:front - sound OK for a middy?

James

wait a minute, your whole car weighs in at 345kg with engine and everything you need, exept exhaust, diff and 2 floor pannels? and you're on the heavy side?

I can only dream........

grtz Thomas

[Edited on 21/9/07 by thomas4age]

I was aiming for 350kg all in!
I must weigh my alloys at some point, I suspect the final wheels will weigh considerably less (16"

James

maybe team dynamics are something to look at those seem to very light and not really expensive

still I can only dream, that things going to fly, a Global GTlight weighs in at 380kg with an R1 fitted, yours is very light indeed

grtz thomas

[Edited on 21/9/07 by thomas4age]

My 17 "wheels are 21.6kg a pop with rubber - how's this compare to a light 16"?

Just weighed all of the additional components to add - just a shade over 30kg's making a total of 375kg dry

Light 16's with rubber should be down around 15-16 kg.


The 15's I am looking at are 11.5-12.8 Kg dependant on tire width.


T

Scour Tirerack.com for tyre and wheel data, there's a lot on there.

As for the 1+1 I've never seen this arrangment look anything other than fugly to me.
The roll bar won't protect the driver and the passenger never has any legroom.

We need to see more pics of the the current project coming along!

I echo the "more pics" comment!

Someone on my "local" forum posted this information up, might help if you try to find some lighter wheels!


Garry

I've made a temporary dash just to house the clocks for now: (Notice the gear lever - thanks Steve!)


Here's the spoiler i've just picked up in place - it needs one of the wings taken out and the whole thing made thinner. Hopefully this avoids the chav looks it's currently adding to the car!

OK, decided to remake the chassis properly now - the dimensions are a little large in passenger area. All the sus mounts will be kept in the same locations though...

I know i'm seriously in atom territory here, but i'm not too bothered. Thoughts (back needs a little work)?

Looks awesome, seems you are also suffering what I am finding, which is that you work out how to do it better once you have actually made it up.

WRT the rear, if you want to even pretend the rear wing will work at all it needs to be higher.

Cheers

Fred W B

the height of the rear wing, may not be functional, but looks much better than way up in the air.

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
The engine is mounted, I couldn't resist starting it up (with the help of some gaffa tape!) - here's a vid
http://www.digital-car.co.uk/wr4/r4firststart.wmv

and some pics:











[Edited on 7/7/07 by cloudy]

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
OK, decided to remake the chassis properly now - the dimensions are a little large in passenger area. All the sus mounts will be kept in the same locations though...

I know i'm seriously in atom territory here, but i'm not too bothered. Thoughts (back needs a little work)?

---

Maybe in the distant future when i've finished it and smoothed out any problems

quote:

---

Originally posted by FUORISERIE
]

I Like your chassis, are you going to sell plans for it ?, it does have potential

[Edited on 26/10/07 by FUORISERIE]

---

2008..??

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Maybe in the distant future when i've finished it and smoothed out any problems

quote:

---

Originally posted by FUORISERIE
]

I Like your chassis, are you going to sell plans for it ?, it does have potential

[Edited on 26/10/07 by FUORISERIE]

---

---

2050?

just watching

any progres or decision ?

Little bit,

My homemade tube roller (my tube bender won't produce smooth large radius bends)



Yesterday's progress on the chassis:

The tube bender looks great!

I love this thread when you go back to page one and look at how this project has progressed its just great to see the evolution of it.

Little more progress

Nice work on the new chassis..

Italo

I'm making good use of some time off work!

and some more

perfect , just perfect shape! ( girl like )
Can you PLEASSSEEEE put on pictures some dimension (weight , tube diameter , wall of tube , steel quality , current Amp for welding , MIG or TIG , material for welding)
I know its time consuming but while be of greatest help for rest of us
And final question : do you ,PERCHANCE , have some plans for this , just for reading before slip

I love it. (but your "old" one was also very tasty)

But just a slight remark; your wishbones look a bit flimsy compared to the rest of the car. I've seen people using 40x20x3 elliptical tubing, and I think that would look just great with the rest of your car. Again; I'm only referring to the looks of your wishbones, I'm not saying that they're not strong enough.

or, maybe,main tubes are slightly huge
never mind

wishbones look normal

They are standard book locost wishbones - on a car I expect to weigh a good 100kg less than a seven. Should be plenty strong enough - allthough had I not bought them early on, i'd probably had a go at it myself...

nkosta: I'm using 1 1/2" and 50mm tubing, both in 16g (bright steel)

I'm welding using a clarke 160en MIG - using 0.8 wire with just co2 shield


no plans as yet, i'm still rejigging things slightly as I go...


James

As I said before, I'm not referring to the strength, but purely the cosmetic part of the 'bones. I think it would look great when the wishbones are more in line with the chassis, dimensionwise.
But each to his own of course!

Thanks James

Am I the only one who thinks that you should throw some planking on the sides and a propeller on the back?!

Seriously, nice, clean work. Thumbs up!

A little more progress on the front, just making up the rack mounts. I'm still ooming and aahing about my rack position in the fore/art direction - any comments? I think i'm happy about where it is..



James

Steering rack position is not for the faint of heart. You should "design" its position as it will determine the amound of bumpsteer you will get.

Moving the rack fore/aft sets Ackerman, a hotly debated issue as far as how much or little you need.

Indeed, I have a test method for achieving zero bump steer, but on the ackerman side nobody has a clear answer - some people have more than that some less!

James

Seeing as you have lots of space at the front, why not make an adjustable bracket in the plain where you have dialed out the bumpsteer?
That way you can experiment with the rack position if you are unhappy with the way it behaves.

In the picture of the front end of your car, it looks like the steering arms are angled further 'in' at the front, to a front mounted rack. Surely they need to be 'out' at the front for ackerman steering???

Hope I'm not being stoopid here.....
Hugh

It's standard cortina uprights so I assume its right - but I can see where you are coming from, anyone else have any comments on this?

quote:

---

Originally posted by kb58
Moving the rack fore/aft sets Ackerman, a hotly debated issue as far as how much or little you need.

---

That is why my rack is set at the same height as my bones (pivot same as bones for no bump) and straight onto my uprights:


Description

You can see where the tie rod goes at the top rear of the upright:



Description

[Edited on 10/12/2007 by nitram38]

Can anyone comment on the best aluminium alloy for use as floor material?

6082 T6 or 5251 H22?


Aluminium alloy 6082 is a medium strength alloy with excellent corrosion resistance. It has the highest strength of the 6000 series alloys. Alloy 6082 is known as a structural alloy. In plate form, 6082 is the alloy most commonly used for machining. As a relatively new alloy, the higher strength of 6082 has seen it replace 6061 in many applications. The addition of a large amount of manganese controls the grain structure which in turn results in a stronger alloy.


Aluminium alloy 5251 is a medium strength alloy possessing good ductility and therefore good formability. Alloy 5251 is known for work hardening rapidly and is readily weldable. It also possesses high corrosion resistance particularly in marine environments.

5251 is the one to use IMO...good formability

reckon the rapid work hardening could cause a flintstone effect with all the flexing though ?

James

just for ilustration:
russian Midy Lada Revolution 650 kg , 1600ccm 165-215 ks
http://autoreview.ru/new_site/year2004/n22/ladarev/1.htm

[sorry slightly of topic but i am suprised with this lada]

More on this place
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=79347

[Edited on 15/12/07 by nkosta]

[Edited on 16/12/07 by nkosta]

[Edited on 16/12/07 by nkosta]

Had to take it out of the garage to spin round today - so I put some wheels on (completely wrong size - going for 195/45/15 I think) while it was outside to get some idea of how it was progressing...

Also a check layout check on the engine/diff combination...

I intend to have some driveshafts made up so the engine is able to sit centrally. Anyone have any comment on whether such a short chain is likely to have alignment issues?





James

CURSE YOU !!!!!!
Just read your thread. Pure inspiration. Hats off to your design and ingenuity. Brilliant
I been umming and aarhhing about a RWD bike engine Mini project I'm planning and waking up in cold sweats about the design. Can't bring myself to shell out £5K+ for a Zcars one, nice though they are
Your car makes my plans look like an infants school project, and me with 25 years engineering experience
What's your background, If you don't mind me asking ??????
Great stuff, best of luck. I'll be following closely from here on in.

My very limited (I'm 22) background is IT - which is not proving very useful so far except with the CAD drawings!

I recommend you just go for it, if you look back in this thread you'll see it's taken a good few tries to get to this point so don't be afraid to experiment

James

,22! by just reading all this thread tonight i would of never thought you the "creator" would be 22. not knockin you in anyway. im 24 and would love to have come up with this design (btw can i copy it in the future as it looks the dogs balls) any more progress?

Engine's going in today - will have some more pics in the next day or two...

Just two of the latest renders showing the OZ alloys and the diff mounts...

just how do you do these detailed pics. they are amazing and must take a while??

how come got no pic archive?

Rob

All made in 3D studio max - I still can't get my head around solidworks!

I'm trained in 3D Studio Max and I found Solidworks quite easy to use. The big difference with SW is that you have to be much more deliberate in how you do things. Another snag is that Max is designed to let you make absolutely anything whereas SW is an engineering program. When I was designing my chassis I found that it wouldn't put a weldment profile on a spline. It only wanted to play with arcs so I made my tube an arc and worked with a regular shape rather than a custom one. Another downside is the rendering in SW. I don't have the 'Photoworks' package so I'm limited to screen captures as far as I can tell. After using Max and Mental Ray, it's a real let-down! I'm still learning SW and I no longer use Max but if you can learn Max you can easily learn SW. Hard to put down the familiar tools though

I guess the difference is that 3DS max will let make anything on the screen...whereas the parts in SW you can make in real life (for the most part)...

How would you detail an extrusion extruded along a spline?...how do you do any detail drawings from 3ds max?...I don't think you can (can you?) because it is just a visualisation program...as opposed to (as you say) an engineering design tool...

I've just assumed the units in 3dmax are millimeters, so I can design to scale. I do have to read off all my dimensions on the fly as I can't get a good printout, but I just take a laptop outside with me

James

[Edited on 7/1/08 by cloudy]

[Edited on 8/1/08 by cloudy]

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I've just assuming the units in 3dmax are millimeters, so I can design to scale. I do have to read of all my dimensions on the fly as I can't get a good printout, but I just take a laptop outside with me

James

[Edited on 7/1/08 by cloudy]

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by Alan B
I guess the difference is that 3DS max will let make anything on the screen...whereas the parts in SW you can make in real life (for the most part)...

How would you detail an extrusion extruded along a spline?...how do you do any detail drawings from 3ds max?...I don't think you can (can you?) because it is just a visualisation program...as opposed to (as you say) an engineering design tool...

---

Amazing work dude

Small update, I've turned up my chain tension adjusters and test fitted the chain:

My only suggestion for your chain adjusters is that I recommend some top guides for your diff carrier.
From your 3D drawing there is nothing stopping side loads pushing the diff brackets over at the top.
Remember that as your driveshafts are moved up and down, there is a chance that thse will put side loads on your diff carrier.
This is not to criticise your work, but to stop any problems.

Good spot - thats something I have thought about but haven't yet designed, I think I'll do it once the adjusters are in...

James

Remade the diff plates in ally, with an offset to allow a chassis tube between it and the engine. I also made up some temporary driveshafts from my sierra ones to get the lengths right....

Just got to say, that it looks the Dog's Cahoonas !!!!

Hey Cloudy, sorry if I missed it but how did you bend the main tubes for your frame. I have considered CNC bending but I'm aware that I may suffer from 'sticker shock' after asking the price. If you have used a lower tech method I'd be interested.

Cheers.

Ben.

I built myself a tube roller from parts I had lying around see here:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=54042&page=20&contribmessage=none

It can't bend the tube much tighter than I have for the side tubes, as the tube starts to oval....

James

[Edited on 14/1/08 by cloudy]

Span the engine up tonight to check everything so far, here's a little video
Video

Ignore the wobbly driveshafts they are just temporary cut and shuts till I'm happy with the lengths...


[Edited on 20/1/08 by cloudy]

Hi James,
Project looking cool as ever.
Quickie question:
Rear suspension pick points, they based on the book chassis or your own design ?
What tube & wall thickness are you using for the diff mounting / rear suspension monuting.
keep up the good work !
cheers

They are of own design but will inevitably sit fairly close to the book dimensions as it's an MNR rear wishbone setup

James

This project is looking really good. I just wish you would hurry up and finish so you can make me one.

Did you ditch the cross over roll bar idea al la MK?

BTW can you make mine a single seater with the seat in the middle of the car

[Edited on 24/1/08 by neilj37]

ye this project is amazing! cant wait to see it finished. put me down for one too!!

Rob

Im amazed by your tube rolling device. Can you tell me the wall thickness you are able to roll?

I've only tested it up to 3mm wall tubing, I suspect thats close to it's limit as the screwjack becomes very hard to turn!


Does anyone know a supplier for the foam commonly used for hand shaping moulds intended for glass fibre layup?

I'm going to take a crack at building a CF/GRP composite bonnet!

James

[Edited on 28/1/08 by cloudy]

I go to local building insulation companies (if you have a Sheffield Insulation near you give them a try)

Thanks any idea what they call it?

James

Insulation foam

Comes in a variety of densities and block shapes, have a look at Fred's thread re his bodywork, he mentions his preferred density in there somewhere and I think he'd have a better idea on what's good for a project of this size. I've always just gone for the highest density offcuts they have as my mouldings have always been relatively small.

Just make sure that you go for a non-styrene based foam, otherwise it will melt when you put styrene based filler/fibreglass.
Polyester does not react with styrene, so go for polyester foam or similar

OK will remember that


James

Just don't try to shape that expanding foam with a hot-wire as it lets off very noxious fumes. A serrated blade and sanding block would be the way forward.

Best of luck and congrats on a fine design it very attractive and from all appearances should be a successful design.

I used polyurethane foam, with a density of 32 kg/m2.

The "surform" tool works great on foam

Cheers

Fred W B



body23

[Edited on 28/1/08 by Fred W B]

Thanks guys, all good info

I take it you coat the foam when you have finished. Then you lay up straight on that which gives you the mould?

James

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I've only tested it up to 3mm wall tubing, I suspect thats close to it's limit as the screwjack becomes very hard to turn!


Does anyone know a supplier for the foam commonly used for hand shaping moulds intended for glass fibre layup?

I'm going to take a crack at building a CF/GRP composite bonnet!

James

[Edited on 28/1/08 by cloudy]

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Thanks guys, all good info

I take it you coat the foam when you have finished. Then you lay up straight on that which gives you the mould?

James

---

WRT surfacing the plug I have been advised by a very experienced pattern maker to proceed as follows:

Cover foam with a layer of csm and resin, and sand.
Coat with body filler, sand, finishing with 180-240.
Spray with a purpose designed product called Durabuild

duratec

(only need the primer) and sand, finishing with 1000, then cut and polish.


Cheers

Fred W B


[Edited on 29/1/08 by Fred W B]

Managed a 32kg weight saving by swapping to 15" superleggera alloys totalling 13.5kg (they have some cheap heavy rubber on at the moment) I'm hoping to get that down to 12kg with a sensible rubber choice...



[Edited on 30/1/08 by cloudy]

[Edited on 30/1/08 by cloudy]

The OZ Ultraleggera weights just 5.44kg/piece and are the lightest 15" alu wheels. At least that is stated in POWER TUNING MAG.

[Edited on 31/1/08 by ZEN]

[Edited on 31/1/08 by ZEN]

The superleggera's are lighter, but you cannot buy them anymore - this was a well looked after set from ebay...

superleggera 7x15 = 4.9kg

[Edited on 31/1/08 by cloudy]

Lighter than Ultraleggera??

yup

Pushed her outside today to see how it's looking

Looks great to me!
Seems you will beat me to the finish first!
I'd better get going to salvage some pride

Not sure about that!, I've got a helluva lot to still do - it's the fiddly stuff that takes the time as I'm sure you know

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Not sure about that!, I've got a helluva lot to still do - it's the fiddly stuff that takes the time as I'm sure you know

---

may I kindly ask you, and nitram of course, the weight of your chassis.
I can't seem to decide how light is light enough in my build... and while the FEA numbers are OK, I sometims want to keep slightly thicker tubing around the passenger compartment then strictly necessary.

I must admit I did not weigh it bare, Can probably come up with a guess based on tubing length if you'd like?

Incidentaly weighed it today at 294kg - looks like I need to do some work on the heavy sierra components at the rear....

James

Nice progress!

Here are some styling ideas







[Edited on 2/2/08 by ZEN]

oooh interesting, any idea where I can find more info?

Wow..never seen the Kirkham Rush before...soooo much like what I'm doing except for only being 2 seats of course...


[img][/img]

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
oooh interesting, any idea where I can find more info?

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by kikiturbo
may I kindly ask you, and nitram of course, the weight of your chassis.
I can't seem to decide how light is light enough in my build... and while the FEA numbers are OK, I sometims want to keep slightly thicker tubing around the passenger compartment then strictly necessary.

---

ok nitram, no problem, I am hovering around 50 KG, and am not comfortable in getting it lower than that..
I'll cheack what different sanctioning bodies say about tubing size vs. vehicle weight next..

[Edited on 4/2/08 by kikiturbo]

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I must admit I did not weigh it bare, Can probably come up with a guess based on tubing length if you'd like?

Incidentaly weighed it today at 294kg - looks like I need to do some work on the heavy sierra components at the rear....

James

---

Need a bit of advice if poss...

I have two options for seat mouting, the top one is the "traditional" steel plates or the second a possible design that also allows for moving the seat and is potentially lighter?

Any problems you can see with either? I will have a very thin ally floor so that won't add any additional strength. Is it desirable to have some flex in the mounts for comfort?





Thanks all,

James

Wouldn't you feel better about using some 2" X 1" box section?
That is what I am using on my car.
It is the one thing that I believe should be strong as it will take all of your weight and any forces.
I have used mine to pick up 4 of the 6 point harness points aswell (per seat).


seats on subframe

seat subframe

Need my bum to be as close to the floor as possible to maintain the proportions

The seats don't have to take much force at all really plus no shock loads at all. The seat belts take all forces in an impact...

James

If you look at the frame/seats, the curved bottom of the seats fits in the frame cut outs.
In otherwords your bum does come level with the floor (less the 4mm skin thickness and 5-10mm pad). It is only the Aluminium side runners that sit on the frame.
I wanted the lowest seat I could get too.
I also wanted some comfort this time around so I opted for the bucket seats/pads.
They weigh about 5kg each with the side runners.
Admitedly, my seats are supported at each end and not in the middle, so that has a little bearing on my choice of material.


seats subframe side

[Edited on 16/2/2008 by nitram38]

What brand of seat is that (knowing full well it'll be a English brand, with a shipping cost to the USA of more than what they cost )

From a uk ebay seller redpip1984
Seats around £200 per pair, pads another £40 per seat and side brackets about £30 a set, but you could make your own

5kg per seat is quite an achievement!

James

see www.jkcomposites.com for more info.


I was quoted 115 pounds for shipping a pair to the USA. (That was East coast,would expect more to CA)

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
5kg per seat is quite an achievement!

James

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by kb58

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
5kg per seat is quite an achievement!

James

---

As long as they don't collapse or break in an accident.

---

puff very very nice build pics are beeing show over here....

sad to see that the well bespoke rollbar idea is ditches (its was 3 pages discussion ) also i noticed that you changed the engine???

wy you changed for a 4inline and chain diff instead of the turned V2 and prop???

maybe this is lighter (no diff) but don't you suspect that chain getting hot (i mean really hot??) its a small chain you know.

keep up the good work!

saying that your project looks very very good/promising!

Tks

The engine has always been the GSXR powerplant, right from the off!

The crossover rollbar is still a possibility, haven't decided yet...

Chain heat shouldn't be an issue - this setup is pretty common with BEC middy's


James

Rear wilwoods have finally arrived!




There does seem to be a problem with the connectors for the willwood MC's, see below for the recommended part from rally design, fully screwed in. Looks awfully wrong to me!



Last question, has anyone flipped the disc round on a cortina hub so the bell points outwards? moving the disc nearer the outside of the car. With the disc mounted to the hub instead of sandwiched between the wheel it looks rather odd being so far recessed...

James

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Rear wilwoods have finally arrived!

---

What part number calipers are those?

Cheers

Fred W B

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
There does seem to be a problem with the connectors for the willwood MC's, see below for the recommended part from rally design, fully screwed in. Looks awfully wrong to me!

---

Figured it out, just had to remove the silver section - Not sure what that's for, but the copper fits suitably on its own...

Took the chance in the daylight to get a pic



[Edited on 24/2/08 by cloudy]

hi
i am a noobie on here but have been following your progress (and getting some ideas) for quite a while.
just thought i would say that your doing a wonderful job and cant wait to see it finished. i am only down the road in peterborough so maybe when its finished you wouldnt mind me coming and having a look.
keep up the good work
stu

Cloudy, your car is something else!
Somehow it looks a lot lower than mine.
Hopefully I will get the engine out sometime this week and then finish the welding.
Once welded, it is on to painting etc.
I am looking at different coatings/paints and at the moment I favour POR15 primer and and enamel top coat (advise appreciated).
I will still need to fabricate a mold for the floor pan (fibreglass) before I put the top coat on the chassis. I want to put the primer on asap as I want to make sure that there is no rust forming.

I'm completely in the dark with paint, would be very interested to hear any progress you make there

Have you wheeled yours outside for a few sneaky pics yet? I suspect its just the lack of roll bar that's making mine look lower....

James

I have just removed all the bones at the moment, so no rolling pics, sorry.

James its looking amazing!! it looks so low and small, i love the shape of it and would love to see it in the flesh one day!!
keep up the good work and the updates.

Rob

One to watch - Footman James just invalidated my build up quote when I called to take out the cover. For get this - my age!

I'm 22 and they say they would not insure me with a bike engine on the road so they cannot insure it offroad. What utterly flawed logic - how does my age have any telling on whether the car is stolen? The policy does not and cannot cover any form of driving.

I've taken up a slightly more expensive quote with AF instead.

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
One to watch - Footman James just invalidated my build up quote when I called to take out the cover. For get this - my age!

I'm 22 and they say they would not insure me with a bike engine on the road so they cannot insure it offroad. What utterly flawed logic - how does my age have any telling on whether the car is stolen? The policy does not and cannot cover any form of driving.

I've taken up a slightly more expensive quote with AF instead.

---

FJ wouldn't say but i'm now with Adrian Flux for £61 for the year with no time limit on finishing the build...

James

cracking car matey...

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
FJ wouldn't say but i'm now with Adrian Flux for £61 for the year with no time limit on finishing the build...

James

---

I'm having some trouble with my pedal box, when the pedal is depressed the arrangement pivots as shown in the pic, eventually ending up at about 45 degrees and impeding further travel!



Any ideas on this one? I know I need to move the pivots closer together, but I don't think this will solve it...

Any clearer and closer photos?

Cloudy, your going to have to mount your pedal box to a substantial surface, either the floor plate, or to full width brackets, just picture in your mind how much force the brake pedal in particular will get , that will give you a good idea how strong the mounts need to be
cheers Kaspa

If you look closely you can see it's mounted with a G clamp to a temporary chassis rail! I'm a little offended you'd think I'd leave it like that!

Cloudy, I'm pretty sure Kaspa assumes you'll remove the clamp (as we all would). However, there is no other clue as to how the pedals will be mounted..presonally I am pretty sure you will do something substantial, but without a being mind readers we have a duty in the interests of safety to point out things like that.

As Martin points out a better picture would help too.

Please don't take offence....it's all meant as constructive observation (not even critisism, as we don't know your plan)

Looking really nice BTW

The pivoting is in the balance bar? Are the MCs moving smoothly?

More detailed pics showing the situation when it "jams" (preferrably from the top and side) would make troubleshooting easier, could be geometry issues...

What i'll do is wait till it's all pressurised and then get pics if it's still doing it....

James

james/cloudy what pedal box you using? i have a luego/obp one. and mine used to jam up when depressed. turned out it was the hole where the balance bar pivots had distorted during welding. it was easy to fix just reamed it out. pedal now travels all the way smoothly. (please ignore me if this is not the case)

hope this helps

atb

rob

[Edited on 18/3/08 by COREdevelopments]

It's better now, it doesn't jam at least - will add brake fluid tomorrow...

James

sorry bloke i wasnt questioning your engineering i just didnt look at the big picture or totaly understand your question, i to have an OBP floor mounted pedal box and it was sticking as well when first fitted, but a light ream with some emmry paper and some lube in the housing and bobs your uncle, works extreemly well now
every thing else is looking good, you should be proud of yourself
Kaspa

A disappointing day - I managed to get it onto the drive under it's own power but I'm having engine troubles - it's only running on 1 or 2 cylinders - whilst you can pull off the engine just dies a few seconds later. Suspect fuelling issues.

Here's the vid anyway:

http://www.digital-car.co.uk/wr4/mk2/video/firstdrive6.wmv

[Edited on 24/3/08 by cloudy]

Really like the look of your car but you need to re-think the brakes. Using your feet to stop the car al-la Fred Flinstone his going to hurt after a while k

Your car is really cool
You seem to have a lot simpler chassis than mine and it appears to be more compact.
Maybe I shouldn't have looked at the atom so hard!
Seeing your car move has made me want to speed up a bit, but hopefully I will catch up as you have still got to dis-asemble it for painting.
Mine is in pieces so that I can finish the chassis and paint it.
Hopefully, this will be the last assembly before driving it!

A lot of it is temporary to be able to test it, I've got to take a lot off now it works!

I'm sure you'll catch me up

Twas the plugs causing the problem - I only had spark on one plug! Renewed all 4 as it needed doing anyway and she purrs again

James

Right, now we are talking:

http://www.digital-car.co.uk/wr4/mk2/video/seconddrive.wmv

Snapped one of the cut and shut driveshafts but made a quick repair...




James

[Edited on 24/3/08 by cloudy]

[Edited on 24/3/08 by cloudy]

nice.

its bound to feel good when you get to that stage.

nice, bet you are so tempted to just go for a blast down the road!!! whats with the earmuffs? dont you wanna hear it roar?! she sounds nuts.
good work i really like it.

Rob

Looking great!

You guys who build cars in single garages are heroes - don't know if I could keep up my enthusiasm in those conditions

Cheers

Fred W B

I need a some advice on this one...

Trying to work out how to sort my cooling system. The bike stock has one water rad about 400mm x 350mm and one oil cooler about half this.

I like to keep things symetrical so was thinking about putting them as follows, but I don't like the idea of one having a fan and one not...

Any other good idea's where they could go? The water exits top left of engine and enters bottom left, the oil enters and leaves at the bottom of the front under the exhausts...
I don't want to mount it at the front of the car due to the extra weight of coolant it would require...

Also bear in mind I'm planning to have the air intake between the seats atom stylee






[Edited on 7/4/08 by cloudy]

[Edited on 7/4/08 by cloudy]

The atom has a single rad at the front of the car as per the picture.
My R1 oil cooler is built onto the engine and pipes into the standard rad. Can't you come up with a similar set up?
Thinkautomotive do oil coolers that plumb into your water system.


Description

My rad on my front subframe:

front subframe

[Edited on 7/4/2008 by nitram38]

The later GSXR-1100 lumps were water - oil cooled. The early ones were air - oil cooled.

If I were to replace the air to oil heat exchanger I with a water to oil exchanger then I'd want to really make sure it has sufficient cooling capacity as these engines do rely on the oil for cooling. Particularly in a car where the engine is gong to get worked hard than it would in the bike.

I like where the rads are positioned now, I'd build entry and exit ducts to protect them from road crap and make them work better though.

Personally I think mounting them to the side spoils the clean lines of the car.

I would either mount it at the front of the car as per the atom setup or somewhere around the back within the frame work and duct the air in.

Regarding oil and water temps, I know that this is slightly different, but every week I run the diesel generators at work.
We monitor the oil and water temps.
The oil temp (sump monitor) always matches the water temp (about 70oC) when the engine is flat out.
What temp does a bike engine water and oil differ?
Do they run the same or different?

[Edited on 8/4/2008 by nitram38]

James - How about a horizontally mounted rad above the diff, with a fan under it to move the air when stuck in traffic? If you can find an oil to water heat exchanger then a single water rad sized to handle all of the heat losses could be used. I guess you'll need to relocate the fuel tank though. Is there space to build a scrutineer friendly enclosure between the seat backs and the engine? Or perhaps between the engine and the diff and offset from the center line (to avoid the chain).

Another idea what about one of these one side?

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=340_367&products_id=2261

and then one the same size the other side for the water?

I presume you can't "overcool" the oil?


I quite like the side mounted ones as it helps it look a little less odd from the front 3/4 where the body tails off at the bottom... I had thought of making a big air duct atom shape between the seats and then splitting this between the engine intake and a horizontal rad as suggested by Puk

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I presume you can't "overcool" the oil?

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I presume you can't "overcool" the oil?

---

I have a book of tuning 4 stroke engines that reccommends oil temp should be 95 to 110 degC. Above 130 - too hot and breaks down, below 95 the oil is thicker and does not lubricate as well, and can rob a small percentage of your engine power.
Engine is usually more efficient if water is set cooler (70 degree thermostat), but can also run water temperature up to 110 (as its under pressure).
Regards
Hugh

Another consideration is that the placement in the pic is directly in line of anything that gets thrown out from the front wheels...

I know my wing protectors get hit a lot there!! Not sure I'd like an ally rad to be blasted in that way.

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy

---

That is a good point actually...

Could you not use the airbox for all purposes or do you think it'd have to be huge to cope with all three things?

Just a pic from yesterday - roll bar and rear suspension is in

Damn fine work there my good man.
I bet you're itching to get out there for a blast aren't you?!

That looks

quote:

---

Originally posted by andyd
Damn fine work there my good man.
I bet you're itching to get out there for a blast aren't you?!

---

Awesome work Cloudy The finished car will be something to be proud of.

Cloudy, I'm sorry if u thort i was copying ur design, I never new how similar our frontal section is, where the suspension mounts are.

[Edited on 19/5/08 by Gakes]

I'd like to throw my opinion in here about a few things.

#1 - the car is abso-f-ing-lutely GORGEOUS. I think it ranks in the top 10 of my all-time best looking list. It's just tubes for godsake, but the proportions are just right and don't need panels to cover it up. So congrats on hitting my g-spot cloudy.

#2 - It was just mentioned about stones and other items being thrown up that might impact your cooling and that is a valid point. A friend of mine spent a week recovering from a stone that impacted his left gonad while driving an Atom at 80mph. He tells me that he will never drive in it again as he seriously thought he had lost the nad. You may want to consider the direction that stones can leave the tyres?


Might I suggest mocking up in 3D the coolers in a duct above the engine F1 style above the seats. Air blows down across the coolers then flows across the engine and forces the air out the back. The shape of the inlet might be rectangular and sit along the top of the rollbar?

quote:

---

Originally posted by Gakes
Cloudy, I'm sorry if u thort i was copying ur design, I never new how similar our frontal section is, where the suspension mounts are.

---

#1 Coming from you - with your beauty of a car I consider that high praise indeed - thankyou!

#2 That sounds really painful! I'll certainly take that into account! perhaps impact resistant clear polycarb sides would increase safety in the cockpit...

#3 Ive managed to move the fuel tank to behind the seats in an effort to increase safety and reduce the C of G. Hopefully this allow for more space at the top/back for cooling - Will mock something up....

quote:

---

Originally posted by sgraber
I'd like to throw my opinion in here about a few things.

#1 - the car is abso-f-ing-lutely GORGEOUS. I think it ranks in the top 10 of my all-time best looking list. It's just tubes for godsake, but the proportions are just right and don't need panels to cover it up. So congrats on hitting my g-spot cloudy.

#2 - It was just mentioned about stones and other items being thrown up that might impact your cooling and that is a valid point. A friend of mine spent a week recovering from a stone that impacted his left gonad while driving an Atom at 80mph. He tells me that he will never drive in it again as he seriously thought he had lost the nad. You may want to consider the direction that stones can leave the tyres?


Might I suggest mocking up in 3D the coolers in a duct above the engine F1 style above the seats. Air blows down across the coolers then flows across the engine and forces the air out the back. The shape of the inlet might be rectangular and sit along the top of the rollbar?

---

Cloudy, how was the test drives so far, hows the handling and acceleration?
how much does she way?

Haven't weighed it recently but three people can lift it off the deck and move it around

Handling I think can be summed up as lairy!

hey any more progress? i love the pic on page 34 of the car it looks great with you, keep up the quality work!!

Rob

Thanks to Wadders for the design of this part. I think it's a really good solution, for a stronger, lighter cycle wing mount.

I've cut the holes in the carbonmods wings (That was fun!) and mocked up the mount. Just need to jig up the position of the wing and then make it!






[Edited on 14/6/08 by cloudy]

Re positioning the wings, I really like the trick I saw on American chopper of laying a hose (would use two on a car) on the tyre and putting the wing on top of it. Select the hose diameter to set the gap to the size you want.

Cheers

Fred W B

You'll laugh - I'm using a christmas rope light to make the gap! Was the only thing the right size

Great minds think alike-ish...

I thought I better show what I'm doing before anyone says I'm copying....

The diference is that I'm going to use flat brackets bonded under the wing bent 90 down and then bolted to the stay.

The rear stay isn't trimmed to length yet, but you get the idea.

The trouble I found when building prototypes, was even with 5mm thick bar there was unacceptable flex at the outer edge! I've got a larger air gap by the looks of things, so perhaps this isn't possible on yours - but i'd recommend tube if possible?

I guess it depends what is unacceptable flex....many stays across the wheel arch part are only around 3mm (it seems from my research)...I was looking at using 1/4" (6.35mm) Ali....

Of course the more gap you have the deeper the section you can use which will stiffen things up considerably...I was going for the minimum clearance for looks.

It's all fun though isn't it?

Yup! I imagine they create a fair few kilos of downforce at triple figures.... Anyone ever taken any measurements?

James

cloudy, I have two sets of those carbon mods wheell arches and they are a copy of the catering van aero ones.
They are supposed to reduce lift and so stay on!
I put two 8mm bushes in the top of my uprights to pick up my wheel arches. This means that the stays will be nice and short.


Description
[img][/img]

This is mine a little more complete...should be self-explanatory.
The actual top brackets will be ali and bonded to the wheel arch..the ones shown are steel prototypes. I may possibly come off the top of the upright with a pair of bracing members to the stays if it needs it.

Finished them off today - solid as a rock








[Edited on 19/6/08 by cloudy]

Sweet.

Look good.

Cloudy, that is one serious bit of kit your are building. Well done.

Can I ask how much your build has cost you?

Thanks,

O

Cloudy I like the mounts for the arches.
Seeing how mine are the same ones, a bit of copying is coming up!

Well I copied Wadders - so copy away!


As for how much it's cost - I don't dare go through the receipts I'm guessing in the 5-6k region so far...

Some work on the dash today, have built this in ally, the carbon fibre and buttons are photoshopped in. Excepting the radiusing/edging required round the edge can anyone see any SVA problems?



James

Wow it's quiet in the middy section at the moment!

Ah well, a little more progress from me:

The rear cycle wing mounts are done

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Wow it's quiet in the middy section at the moment!.......

---

Cloudy i don't know how you have the drive and perseverance to push the car along that quickly. What's your secret? I spend most of my time on forums and the net 'researching' and very little time down in the garage.

forgot to add cars looking great.

[Edited on 8/7/08 by quinnj3]

I have to say what an impressive project you have there! I'm based in mid beds, where abouts are you?

quote:

---

Originally posted by quinnj3
Cloudy i don't know how you have the drive and perseverance to push the car along that quickly. What's your secret? I spend most of my time on forums and the net 'researching' and very little time down in the garage.

forgot to add cars looking great.

[Edited on 8/7/08 by quinnj3]

---

Hats off to you mate, I have to say that this is probably the best looking exoskeleton type car I've seen - and that includes the atom.

I also have to say that the chassis is a lot simpler than my car and I wish that I had thought of it!
I am now trying to get the floor pan made which if you look at the atom, has some quite alkward angles. Your simple flat floor pan would have made life easier for me.

Forgive me cloudy if my design looks similar, but i too went the flat floor root coz of time and simplicity

I think the atom's floor design is a nice touch - suits the shape of the main tubes, not sure it's any good for the aerodynamics mind you!

As said before, that is one good looking car.

You are to be seriously congratulated on producing something that looks that good and isn't even finished.

I hate to think what the finished item will look like, starting to turn slightly green with envy just thinking about it.

all the best with the remainder of the build

I think I already know which i'm going to go for, but do you guys prefer the lights on the left or the set on the right?



James

Left, deffo ..

Left

james any updates? hows it looking?

atb

Rob

I've been involved with Scrapheap series 11 for a month - so I've not even touched the car! Will get back to installing the harness' next week

James

I've been involved with Scrapheap series 11 for a month - so I've not even touched the car! Will get back to installing the harness' next week

James

I've been involved with Scrapheap series 11 for a month - so I've not even touched the car! Will get back to installing the harness' next week

James

Scrapheap Challenge? I've been doing that for the last year and half ha ha

Scrapheap Challenge? I've been doing that for the last year and half ha ha

set of lights on the left get my vote. When are we going to get to see more photos I'm really interested how it's coming along.

Update please

O

wow that was a quick hour lol... just read your topic through.

man i love your vision. very cool.

car looks awesome.

For some reason I'm working on a scrapheap project again!

Hopefully can get back to her in a month....

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I think I already know which i'm going to go for, but do you guys prefer the lights on the left or the set on the right?



James

---

This thread is useless without updates

I've finished my five minutes of fame, so back to the grindstone. I have some STUNNING projector lights to fit from furore, will get some pictures and a full review soon!

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I've finished my five minutes of fame, so back to the grindstone. I have some STUNNING projector lights to fit from furore, will get some pictures and a full review soon!

---

ye cant wait to see some more progress.

rob

Two options, do I....



Send chassis away for blast + powder coat

Make a homebuilt blasting/painting tent and do it conventionaly at home with spray gun?

James

Option A

O

Trouble is the cost and the fact I can't make any changes when it's done - and I see this as an evolving project...

I got slated for what I did to my chassis but I don't care!
I hand painted mine with Epoxy 121 paint which is a two pack that is impervious to salt/acid/brake fluid etc and does not chip/flake.
It looks rough, but at least I won't be fretting everytime a stone hits the car.
I figure that if you buy a new car, put the first dent in it with a hammer so that you can relax when you put it in a car park!
Being a rough finish, I will be able to repaint any damage without it noticing.
If you use powder coating, I guarantee it will chip/rust in a few short years and p*ss you off.


Description

Half the powder coat has come off my wishbones already and I haven't even driven it!

Can that epoxy paint be sprayed?

James

In the shippyard that I'm working the 2 component epoxy paint is used for painting transoceanic ships. And yes it is sprayed.

I guess you coud polish it for a smooth aperance.

[Edited on 20/10/08 by ZEN]

sounds like a great middle ground!

Nitram where did you get hold of yours?

James

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
sounds like a great middle ground!

Nitram where did you get hold of yours?

James

---

+1 on the powercoating. Avoid. I had a chassis done in it once and it cracked and peeled off before the thing was even built. Almost impossible to repair too.

Go with an epoxy (lots around) or an enamel. The important part is the bond so the chassis will HAVE to be etch primed after sandblasting.

Powdercoat looks good to begin with but if it's done wrong it's useless. If the coaters heat the chassis too much the coating becomes brittle and will flake off and chip really easily.

Coating over bare steel does not achieve a bond either so even if the coating comes out right, its still not really stuck to the metal.

Epoxy 121 bonds straight on bare steel without a primer. That was another reason I choose it.

Is there a choice of colours? Or any colour long as it's black?

James

Although it doesn't say so, they do different colours, but not that many!

Here's a few pics of the new projector headlights, (available from Russ of furore cars)

Extremely pleased, and have a good UK beam pattern, construction is high quality and solid - much nicer looking than the standard 7 style

I'm not 100% sure about the location of them, I'd prefer them lower - but they are at the minimum height for SVA. Maybe I'll move them further up the body... Comments on the positioning welcome!







[Edited on 26/10/08 by cloudy]

Integrate them in the front fenders for swiveling headlights?

Cloudy, they look the dogs!

Just remember to check that they are no further than 400mm from the outside of your cycle wings (the widest part of the car).
They look a bit too far inboard but I could be wrong.

[Edited on 26/10/2008 by nitram38]

That only applies to the dipped beam I belileve, which is mounted on the outside - within spec... I may be wrong though!


James

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
That only applies to the dipped beam I belileve, which is mounted on the outside - within spec... I may be wrong though!


James

---

That's how I read it too...

It's only the dipped that is restricted!

I love the lights, but not sure on the position - looks a little, erm, goofy!

I presumed they would sit further up, bit like this...


Description

As you've drawn was the original design, and I agree - I prefer that to the current location

I think I'll move as shown until after SVA at least...

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I've been involved with Scrapheap series 11 for a month - so I've not even touched the car! Will get back to installing the harness' next week

James

---

There certainly is another series

Slowly progressing with the cooling system...

Dyna 2000 ignition, coils and leads fitted, and another set of carbs as the others were playing up

You can see the two oil coolers, the 34 row one is being used as the water radiator - we'll see how that goes , rather experimental...




James

Are the radiators too near the exhausts?

No - or I wouldn't have put them there

In all seriousness, yes - but the exhausts will be either wrapped, or a heatshield will be made to protect the rad

The pictures are deceptive there's a good 4-5inch gap between the two, and most of the heat is convected upwards

James

[Edited on 10/11/08 by cloudy]

Wouldn't you get better air-flow if you turn them 90°?

Geoff

Yes, but it looks rubbish - There will be ducting to pull air in and force it through

James

I've moved the lights further up

Have also fitted wing mirrors, and front indicators...

Will get some pictures on the ground again in the light over the weekend along with a full review of the furore lights



James

[Edited on 14/11/08 by cloudy]

I've put the fuel tank behind the seats, but I've got two problems -

a) the proximity to the exhausts - is this something to be concerned about?
b) The seat belt lower mounts are directly under the engine raising up slightly, so the tank would have to move up about 2 inches from this position (It can't - would have to have a tank made)

So my questions are, do I have a tank made to fit here, or make a bar to keep the belt mount down (I can't move mounts forward as there is no strong structure) or do I move the tank into the space above the diff. The last options sounds easy - but will raise the CofG and move more weight over the rear axle...

Personally I don't like the tank in it's current location....

If you had a bit more room, I'd suggest perhaps looking at an MGF tank but as it stands, I think above the diff is the best option...

*but* if you *do* want to keep it in that location, I'd have a talk to Bryn@alifabs about a custom tank ... I was pleasantly surprised at the cost of mine...

I'd also think about some sort of heat shroud to go between the exhaust / engine and tank...

[Edited on 15/11/08 by stevebubs]

Another idea is to have two tanks, shaped to fill each side,with a 45 degree end to match the chassis, meaning it clears the exhausts better, and doesn't interfere with the belts...

Steve, any contact details for alifab?

James

[Edited on 15/11/08 by cloudy]

It's a pity you are not near me, I got a mate to make mine from a pattern that I made in cardboard.
I also agree about some protection. Even if you get warm fuel it will affect your performance.
I have fitted a Aluminium plate with some of that heat blanket (not cheap).


Description
[img][/img]

You can see the tank in front of the engine, and I have an aluminium firewall between the tank and my seats. I also have a plumbed extinguisher. I have seen and met a few motor racing burns victims, so I take no chances!


Description

Nitram- looks like a good solution - to what is basically the same problem,

here's what the 3D model says how tanks should be shaped, looks like a good capacity too..



James

http://www.allyfab.co.uk/

Made me a near - mm perfect tank for my Fury based on a set of diagrams for less than a smaller standard tank from the manufacturer...

Just one other thing to consider - Nitram's tank is outlined by a kind of cradle which (I should imagine) gives the tank some protection from the engine in a rear-end impact

Also weighed it again today, with fluids - no fuel 340kg. Few more kilos to be added with the cycle wings - but generally happy...

Hopefully a later weight reduction excercise on the rear diff, driveshafts and CV's will get this close to the 300kg target... They are seriously overengineered!

Added up the project receipts for a laugh! I think it's surprisingly low actually, £2500 all in so far...

James

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Added up the project receipts for a laugh! I think it's surprisingly low actually, £2500 all in so far...

WOW that is seriously low for a one off car!!
especially at the stage you are at!
when's it going to make an appearance at a show? i am so eager to see it in the flesh, and can you put my name on the list for a chassis? please?



Atb

Rob

---

cloudy - 19/11/08 at 09:50 PM

Sooon! Promise!

The diff has been rebuilt with one of the Westgarage covers, ready for installation

---

nitram38 - 19/11/08 at 10:11 PM

The diff carrier looks
Any pictures of it before you put it on?
I have a welded cover that I have never liked

---

cloudy - 23/11/08 at 05:32 PM

Le bonnet

---

paul the 6th - 25/11/08 at 02:46 PM

speechless

---

nitram38 - 25/11/08 at 06:12 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by paul the 6th
speechless

---

is a word

Cool is another

---

TimC - 29/11/08 at 07:58 PM

Did you say that you're 22?

Holy sheesh - but I suppose as Wenger would say, if you are good enough you're old enough.

Unbelievably impressive work.

---

jabbahutt - 1/12/08 at 08:35 AM

as ever it's looking stunning!! just don't ask how envious I am of your skills and natural aptitude

---

cloudy - 1/12/08 at 05:01 PM

Just an interesting shot showing the side by side on the 3D model, versus what's complete so far - rather similar

---

nitram38 - 1/12/08 at 05:39 PM

Wow! You built two at the same time!

---

Gakes - 1/12/08 at 06:10 PM

youve done very well....some just have a natural flair. cant wait to see it painted up

---

COREdevelopments - 1/12/08 at 10:14 PM

looks spot on james, just love the stance of the car, looks fast just sitting there!!

Rob

---

cloudy - 2/12/08 at 03:03 PM

I need to brace the rear suspension box, but the optimal tubes pass about an inch and or so above the exhaust just before it reaches the can... Is this just going to destroy any coating I try on the tube? Could heat reflective tape be used on the underside of the tube?

James

---

yahshuatwo - 2/12/08 at 05:30 PM

love it! Dynomite! Need plans to purchase so I can build one in the USA.

---

cloudy - 5/12/08 at 04:33 PM

Well I've just taken the plunge and bought 5 litres of Epoxy mastic 121 as used on the motaleira, I'm going to try and spray it with an HVLP gun - hopefully it works!

James

---

Hammerhead - 6/12/08 at 01:06 PM

do you think that it will be hard to spray in cold temperatures?

---

cloudy - 6/12/08 at 01:26 PM

I have got together some parts to make myself a heated spray booth (miles of platic sheet and an oil heater )

I wouldn't even attempt to spray at ambient temps at the moment

[Edited on 6/12/08 by cloudy]

---

cloudy - 6/12/08 at 10:32 PM

Spent today taking every last component and bolt off the chassis ready for blasting + painting...

First time i've had the complete chassis on it's own - Can just about pick it up with one hand

---

cloudy - 7/12/08 at 06:13 PM

Spent today cleaning up the chassis, and tidying any welds that needed it....

Will continue this tomorrow, I'm in two minds as to whether the rails that go lengthways up the middle of the chassis (the top one is in place you can see the mounts for the others) Should be made of steel and therefore can be welded to the chassis, there is a visible lack of strength down the middle there and the rails are just T6 ally with 3 M6 bolts each end....

---

cloudy - 12/12/08 at 04:49 PM

Painted the bottom in my little indoor tent!!

Spraying this epoxy mastic 121 seems to be the best way to apply, its so sticky it's like warm toffee! I'm not surprised nitram gave up trying to get a smooth brushed finish!

Required 10% thinners, they recommend 15% maximum and the paint flow on the gun turned up to max, running at 80psi!!

---

locoR1 - 12/12/08 at 04:56 PM

Looking James cant wait to see it finished!

Don't forget you owe me a ride

---

cloudy - 13/12/08 at 03:51 PM

I'll get some when its dry, if you spray a dry edge you can give it a nice textured finish, rather like a textured powder coat, spraying a wet edge gives a satin finish but with orange peel - Both I think are actually quite nice on tube, I've tried to spray the top coat dry, as this will hide imperfections and knocks far better...


James

---

nitram38 - 13/12/08 at 05:23 PM

Naw.....just brush it on

---

cloudy - 18/12/08 at 07:27 PM

Chassis is still cooking under some sheet, have managed to get it up to 40 degrees even with the sub zero temps in the garage

I'm really happy with the finish - and it should be really durable if I can get it to dry well in these cold conditions...

My air riveter arrived today - It makes the most satisfying noise in the world! Kerchunk PSSSSHHHHH

Anyone have any recomendations for where to get closed rivets for the floor panel - what size and length should I be after?

James

[Edited on 18/12/08 by cloudy]

---

tomprescott - 28/12/08 at 06:12 PM

I think it looks absolutely awesome with the roll bar style, only reservation I would have is that it might end up looking too short and aggressive, if it was mine I would build it long and low, like a cross between a sand rail and one of those american drag racers. But to be honest i think it looks great and it'll probably start to look even better when the frame is full!

---

cloudy - 2/1/09 at 07:38 PM

Waiting for bloomin rivets to arrive - I hate this time of year where everywhere is closed!

The floor laid out...




[Edited on 2/1/09 by cloudy]

---

cloudy - 7/1/09 at 09:06 PM

More waiting... Have corner pegged the panels ready to draw out the rivet locations and predrill them...

Using my new 8.1mp phone for pics - SE C905, I recommend it highly..




[Edited on 7/1/09 by cloudy]

---

pocket rocket - 7/1/09 at 09:22 PM

that is a work of art! amazing work!
can't wait to see it out and about at some show's, its going to pull a big crowd!

---

cloudy - 11/1/09 at 12:17 AM

Right, I've spent from sunup to midnight in the garage today - and finally I've made some progress !!

Fitting the floor:






Finally the right way up with some of the wishbones fitted.... (The red glow is a reflection from the heat lamp )




[Edited on 11/1/09 by cloudy]

---

COREdevelopments - 11/1/09 at 07:57 PM

finish looks great james! keep it up.

---

Omni - 11/1/09 at 08:11 PM

AWESOME as always James

WELL DONE MATE.

O

---

cloudy - 11/1/09 at 09:20 PM

Another long day - lots of pics for you!











[Edited on 11/1/09 by cloudy]

---

Omni - 11/1/09 at 09:27 PM

Blimey! You are soooo nearly done. You gonna make SVA?

O

---

cloudy - 11/1/09 at 10:00 PM

Should be able to, long as I keep the pace up...

---

neilj37 - 13/1/09 at 10:48 AM

Most important question is when can i have one

---

nitram38 - 13/1/09 at 05:38 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by neilj37
Most important question is when can i have one

---

Probably when you build one!

---

COREdevelopments - 13/1/09 at 07:50 PM

wow your progress is great! its really coming together! cant wait to see it at the shows, stoneleigh maybe?

Rob

---

carpmart - 13/1/09 at 09:07 PM

That really is coming together in an impressive way now!

Keep up the good work!

---

cloudy - 15/1/09 at 08:14 PM

I have decided the epoxy 121 is NOT the one to go for, it's marking at the slightest hint of contact with anything - I don't forsee it lasting long on the road

James

---

nitram38 - 15/1/09 at 08:32 PM

That is why I brushed it on.
I had to remove some to weld a bracket on and it is tough stuff. I had to burn it off to clean the metal enough to weld.
Tough but shows scuffs.

---

cloudy - 15/1/09 at 08:41 PM

I've sprayed a textured matt finish Martin, it should hide scuffs fairly well - I dont think its the application method...

Parts that were baked in the oven seem far tougher - so i'm hoping a day in strong sunlight should get the paint temp up enough to harden it further...

James

---

nitram38 - 15/1/09 at 09:00 PM

It is not the application method I am on about, it is the ability to touch up the paint with a brush without anyone noticing. On a smooth paint job, it will show.
I still like how tough this paint is and after your car has been on the road a while, you will probably like it too.

---

cloudy - 16/1/09 at 11:57 AM

Well a screwdriver I baked - I had to use a hammer to knock the paint off - so I'm hoping the chassis will eventually set to the same...

James

---

COREdevelopments - 16/1/09 at 07:07 PM

as for your paint issue, if you say you have sprayed a textured finish, you would be able to re-spray any scratches and get a decent blend in as its a matt.
both yours and martins build look awesome.

rob

---

BATHO - 16/1/09 at 08:59 PM

car looks great, are you thinking of producing this? I think you should!!!

---

cloudy - 21/1/09 at 10:12 AM

There might be plans to do so, depends how SVA + road trials go...


The big day arrived today - I put in my SVA1 form, applied for a date in about 4 weeks, so the heat is on!

James

---

cloudy - 21/1/09 at 09:49 PM

Finished making a template fuel tank from steel to send to allyfab, There will be a pair of these giving just over 25 litres in total (5.5gallons) - This should be enough I think






[Edited on 21/1/09 by cloudy]

---

Valtra - 22/1/09 at 02:07 AM

Don't know what to say . Just stumbled on this thread and spent a couple of hours skipping though it .
I firmly believe you must be one of the greatest natural talents off all time .

Colin Chapman
John Barnard
Adrian Newey
You
Etc etc

---

MK9R - 22/1/09 at 07:52 AM

only just seen this, awesome!!!!!

---

cloudy - 25/1/09 at 04:42 PM

Wiring is pretty much done, and have modified the Photon lights with an LED sidelight...






[Edited on 25/1/09 by cloudy]

---

nitram38 - 25/1/09 at 06:14 PM

I need to get my finger out!
I've still got loads to do!

Very nice work James

---

suparuss - 25/1/09 at 07:14 PM

im very impressed with your build! i can remember you starting it a bit before i dissapeared, i cant believe you are almost finished! very nice work, well done i hope you pass the sva.

Russ.

---

Valtra - 25/1/09 at 07:45 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by suparuss
im very impressed with your build! i can remember you starting it a bit before i dissapeared, i cant believe you are almost finished! very nice work, well done i hope you pass the sva.

Russ.

---

Another monumental effort ....we are not worthy etc etc

body work photos are mid blowing

---

cloudy - 26/1/09 at 06:50 PM

Yet more wires fitted today, I think aside from the temp and speedo sensors it's all done. The speedo hall sensor I will run down screened cable which I will chassis ground, It's a KOSO unit so can be rather flaky..

Had a bit of a nightmare with my SVA paperwork which I sent last tuesday on RM recorded 1st class, the tracking number said it hadn't been delivered still this morning, called SVA office and they had received it weds - tracking system must have a problem...

Not sure how long to expect to wait for the call saying the details have been passed to the SVA test centre?

James

---

FUORISERIE - 26/1/09 at 09:26 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Wiring is pretty much done, and have modified the Photon lights with an LED sidelight...






[Edited on 25/1/09 by cloudy]

---

great pictures cloudy...!!, are those aftermarket front mounted lights ? or are they bespoke ?

Cheers
Italo

---

nitram38 - 26/1/09 at 09:30 PM

James, you mentioned an Led sidelight.
Is that in the lamp housing?
Any info, pictures of this?
I am planning on using the lucas landrover style sidelights for mine.

---

cloudy - 26/1/09 at 09:44 PM

Italo, the lights are "Photons" available from Russ bost of this forum

Martin, the back of the directing lens has two manufacturing flats, I put a 5mm hole through one of these and epoxied a 8000mcd megabright LED in it - It's in the high beam unit so all 4 lamps are illuminated during normal driving - They are not massively bright but have the option of adding a second LED in each if SVA needs

James

---

nitram38 - 26/1/09 at 09:47 PM

Will the led's survive the heat of the halogen lamps?

Just as an aside, your dipped beam must stay on when you put your main beam on on twin light setups.
On single lights this does not apply

[Edited on 26/1/2009 by nitram38]

---

cloudy - 26/1/09 at 10:03 PM

Bugger! The sierra switches dont do that - no problem i'll just wire the main beam relay signal onto the dipped so they are both forced to fire together - is this stated in the sva manual anywhere?

I bench tested the high beams for half an hour with the LED only becoming lukewarm, there isn't much light hitting it

---

nitram38 - 26/1/09 at 10:08 PM

It is definitely an sva rule.
At least you found out now!

---

cloudy - 26/1/09 at 10:31 PM

The only mention I can find is on section 9.1 page 4 where it states

(If the lamp is of a gas discharge type)

dipped beam remains on when the mainbeam is on

along with other rules such as must have a washer system..

Presumably that only covers HID lights?

Can you explain where it's stated?

James

[Edited on 26/1/09 by cloudy]

---

nitram38 - 26/1/09 at 10:45 PM

James......Oops

I have just spent half an hour re-reading and it looks like you are right.

Sorry to give you a heart attack!

---

cloudy - 26/1/09 at 10:52 PM

I may go armed with some electrical tooling just in case! There is a case for it I suppose as there is a momentary point during the relay switchover where the lights are off, though only for a tiny fraction of a second....


James

---

nitram38 - 26/1/09 at 10:54 PM

I'm still going to wire mine so that they are both on.

---

cloudy - 26/1/09 at 11:00 PM

I think I will too, if I can simply jump across the relays....

James

---

Doug68 - 27/1/09 at 06:19 AM

What instrument panel is that? I can't see it referred to in the thread.
It looks really good I'd like to investigate them further.

Thanks,

[Edited on 27/1/09 by Doug68]

---

cloudy - 27/1/09 at 09:11 AM

It's a KOSO RX1N

---

cloudy - 29/1/09 at 06:00 PM

Wahoo, VOSA have cashed my SVA cheque - hoping for the call any day....

James

---

Valtra - 29/1/09 at 09:59 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Wahoo, VOSA have cashed my SVA cheque - hoping for the call any day....

James

---

When the phone call comes your stomach will instantly drop and your heart will pound , as you realise how little time you have to do a million and one jobs . The very best of luck to you

---

cloudy - 29/1/09 at 11:00 PM

Hopefully it's not too many jobs - list is:

Fit cycle wings
Fit fuel tank (when it arrives)
bolt in seats/belts
fill and bleed brakes
Nut covers
Clip back all wiring
Battery terminal covers
Speedo calibration
Fit driveshafts...


I'm sure that list will double!

---

Fred W B - 30/1/09 at 11:09 AM

All the best with the final push

Do you have to add wheel alignment to the list, or did you do that earlier?

Cheers

Fred W b

---

cloudy - 30/1/09 at 11:32 AM

I did do that earlier but will redo it in case anything has moved in the reassembly...

james

[Edited on 30/1/09 by cloudy]

---

cloudy - 30/1/09 at 01:36 PM

I was expecting a call to say my details had been passed on, but instead a letter arrived on my doorstep today from Leighton with a test date of 27th Feb - the race is on!!

Date is a friday - not sure if thats a good day or not to have it?



James

[Edited on 30/1/09 by cloudy]

---

pocket rocket - 30/1/09 at 02:27 PM

best of luck mate
wish mine would be ready before dam iva price!

---

Valtra - 30/1/09 at 06:27 PM

Do you need to check emissions?

My tester also told me that because my boot had no cover , technicly it is also tested for sharp edges (there were none) as yours is an open design do you need to install a temporary engine cover for example?

[Edited on 30/1/09 by Valtra]

---

nitram38 - 30/1/09 at 06:50 PM

I am going to put a 1" X 1" mesh over my engine.
I had to do it on the F1-2 as the tester said my engine had too many projections.
The atom has to do the same to pass and these bits disappear after the test!

---

cloudy - 30/1/09 at 07:10 PM

Pre 95 engine, so no emissions - but I suspect I will need to cover the engine...

How "permanent" does this have to appear? I don't want to drill loads of mounting holes...

James

---

nitram38 - 30/1/09 at 07:14 PM

If you form a piece of steel band that wraps around your rails and clamps like on a bike exhaust box, then you will not have to drill your chassis.
That is what I am planning to do

---

cloudy - 30/1/09 at 07:16 PM

Are tie wraps going to be obviously temporary?

James

---

nitram38 - 30/1/09 at 07:19 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Are tie wraps going to be obviously temporary?

James

---

That depends on your tester, but I would say not permenant, although you could argue as most cables are held permenantly, they might say that if you cut them for access, that they might not be able to be replaced if you are not carrying any.

---

cloudy - 30/1/09 at 07:31 PM

Yes good point, perhaps if I cable tie some mounts to the chassis then screw the cover on - allthough that might look equally as "disposable", I'll just have to see what I can do...

Actually I think I can get away with 4 mounts, so maybe just rivet in some ally corner pieces, that way I just have to fill in 4 or 8 4mm holes...

James



James

[Edited on 30/1/09 by cloudy]

---

Valtra - 30/1/09 at 07:39 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Yes good point, perhaps if I cable tie some mounts to the chassis then screw the cover on - allthough that might look equally as "disposable", I'll just have to see what I can do...

Actually I think I can get away with 4 mounts, so maybe just rivet in some ally corner pieces, that way I just have to fill in 4 or 8 4mm holes...

James



James

[Edited on 30/1/09 by cloudy]

---

jubilee clips or stainless cable ties (screwfix) maybe ?

---

nitram38 - 30/1/09 at 07:47 PM

James, take a look at a bike exhaust box clamp. It is a complete circle with two folded tags that a bolt can go through.
Make some to wrap around your rails and the bolt/tags will go through your mesh. No holes in your chassis required.

---

jabbahutt - 4/2/09 at 07:55 AM

Any more progress? I'm keen to see the latest photos to see how she's coming along.

Nigel

---

cloudy - 4/2/09 at 08:07 AM

It's all little details at the moment, hoping to get some major components like the tank in this weekend...

James

---

cloudy - 9/2/09 at 11:12 AM

Some rather large (rear ) discs arrived today

---

cloudy - 9/2/09 at 08:59 PM

Springs fitted, and correct size brake discs fitted at the rear...

A few blatant brake porn pics:

---

Gakes - 9/2/09 at 09:35 PM

Looking so hot!!!!

---

jabbahutt - 10/2/09 at 10:59 AM

That's indeed looking awesome. Can't wait to see an up to date whole car photo.

Hurry up and finish so we can see some photos to drool over.

---

pocket rocket - 10/2/09 at 04:24 PM

dude thats hot
wilwoods on the rear aswell... should stop well lol.
did the make the rear uprights yourself?

---

cloudy - 10/2/09 at 05:57 PM

rear uprights are from MNR, but ive lightened and modified to take rear cycle wings...

James

---

neilj37 - 11/2/09 at 10:42 AM

OMG just soiled myself

---

cloudy - 11/2/09 at 07:08 PM

Custom tanks arrived and test fitted!

Made by Paul Talbot (U2U for contact details) recommended by russbost - £200
Internal anti surge pot too about 4.5 UK Gallons total....

---

cloudy - 12/2/09 at 07:57 PM

Tanks are all plumbed in, so a chance to clear out the cobwebs!
Video

[Edited on 12/2/09 by cloudy]

---

Hellfire - 12/2/09 at 08:37 PM

Sounds great.

Phil

---

Meeerrrk - 12/2/09 at 09:28 PM

sweeeet!!!

---

Hammerhead - 13/2/09 at 02:10 PM

mental!

---

pocket rocket - 16/2/09 at 12:00 AM

dam thats the best thing iv seen all week
good work dude, can't wait to see it at some shows!

---

nitram38 - 16/2/09 at 03:10 AM

The race to finish is on James!
I've managed to get the brakes and clutch working, although I need to change the clutch master to a bigger one. The coolant system is filled and has held a pressure test allday yesterday and apart from a lug (will get today) my wiring is in.
Hopefully I will be starting the car in a few days.
I have the cycle wings to fit and make up some lighting storks and I will be finished.
SVA cheque has been cashed and I am waiting on a date.
Hopefully I will see you on the road in a few weeks/summer and we can both meet up and go out for a "mild" roadtest?

---

cloudy - 16/2/09 at 09:53 AM

Sounds like a plan Martin!

---

cloudy - 25/2/09 at 09:11 PM

Just been having a tweak of the lights and made a banner from one of the pics



I've aligned the lights by putting my tintop (also with projectors) in a marked position that I replicated with R4, using masking tape as guides (the beam is slightly high as the lights are higher in R4) Does it look about right?



[Edited on 25/2/09 by cloudy]

---

Valtra - 25/2/09 at 11:02 PM

Looks near enough . The tester gave mine a tweek to get them how he wanted them (my headlights that is ) so you should be fine . looking good

---

Xtreme Kermit - 27/2/09 at 03:09 PM

Come on cloudy - what's the news?????

Ian

---

stuleah - 27/2/09 at 09:13 PM

ditto ^^^^^^

---

cloudy - 27/2/09 at 09:37 PM

All the gory details here:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=107437

---

stuleah - 27/2/09 at 10:49 PM

well done for a not to bad fail, hope mine goes aswell.

---

cloudy - 2/3/09 at 03:46 PM

Just made an 80 mile round trip to DVLA Borehamwood - they were calling 191 when I arrived, the ticket they gave me was 262

When I did eventually see someone, they checked my ID, arranged for a "3rd party" to come and do a home visit and took £120 + 55 registration for my road tax.

Does this all sound about right? Who is the 3rd party likely to be?

James

---

otodb - 2/3/09 at 07:34 PM

Hi James,

I've only just joined & have really enjoyed reading your build thread, you've made a great job of your car.

Last year I finished building a Foreman Mk4 & had it SVA'd at Birmingham. After passing the SVA it had to be inspected by the DVLA to ensure the Doner engine & chassis No & correct Doner parts matched the paperwork they had in order to get an age related plate. You are lucky to get a home visit, I had to deal with Northampton DVLA & they had stopped doing them & although you could drive the car to the SVA test, they insisted it was trailered for the DVLA inspection.

I don't know if your car will qualify for an age related plate but even if not they will still need to inspect the car to make sure the engine, chassis No's match the paperwork.

Fingers crossed for the retest.

All the best,

Brian.

---

cloudy - 3/3/09 at 06:39 PM

Somebody called today to inspect the VIN's this friday, if I manage to cover all the bases and the exhaust/emissions problem gets solved I could well have plates by thursday!

James

---

Scouse Monkey - 3/3/09 at 07:13 PM

Just checking by for updates...


Good luck!

---

jabbahutt - 4/3/09 at 12:26 PM

James

Quick question for you. your rendered vision of the car had it sporting a rear spoiler. do you still intend to fit one or has this part of the original design idea bitten the dust?

Cars looking fantastic, a real credit to you.

Nigel

---

cloudy - 4/3/09 at 01:51 PM

Spoiler is ready to go on, just leaving it off for now...

---

cloudy - 4/3/09 at 08:03 PM

Can recommend Yamaha 1100 bulldog exhausts , pulling 100.3db @ 8000rpm without covering the intake or engine either... (From 109db @ 7500rpm with my carbon ones)

James

[Edited on 4/3/09 by cloudy]

---

cloudy - 6/3/09 at 11:09 AM

I've just had my DVLA home inspection, no problems - but he did mention they might want to assign me a VIN number
Well I did speak to Borehamwood before stamping and they confirmed it was OK, so I'll just have to stand firm on that one..

James

---

nitram38 - 6/3/09 at 12:31 PM

Tell them it is a manufacturers vin.....mine accepted that on the F1-2

---

quinnj3 - 6/3/09 at 07:42 PM

nearly there! I've been following your progress for almost a year and it seems like no time ago since I've been watching this thread. Your build was done very quickly, especially for a scratch build. well done!

---

cloudy - 11/3/09 at 11:01 AM

About to leave for SVA no2 - bit worried as the EGT is far higher on my left bank to the right Either a misfire in 3/4 or 1 or 2 is running very lean... Either is not good for the emissions test!

James

---

pocket rocket - 11/3/09 at 01:12 PM

ill keep my fingers crossed mate

---

cloudy - 11/3/09 at 02:49 PM

Brakes - fine when I left, no leaks - tested by standing on brakes for extended periods of time, I get halfway to SVA and they've done it again. Must be a mix of the small reservoir and the vibration. New master cylinders needed I think

James

---

cloudy - 11/3/09 at 03:06 PM

I'm about ready to throw in the towel.

DVLA just called to say they are denying my application because they consider a bike gearbox to be seperate from the engine. Therefore you cannot get a new registration with a bike engine.

Needless to say the timing was impeccably bad and I was rather angry. She's gone to check with her superiors.

James

---

cheapracer - 11/3/09 at 03:46 PM

Hmmm, so it's not just Australia.

Another thing we do here is try different rego branches as the attitudes change from branch to branch.

Oh and try Friday arvo at 4pm especially before a long weekend, they just want to get you out of there as fast as they can so they can get out themselves.

[Edited on 11/3/09 by cheapracer]

---

pocket rocket - 11/3/09 at 06:16 PM

oh mate you must be gutted but try not to stress... have a sit down and a beer and come back to it tomorrow.
IT WILL BE WORTH IT IN THE END! and you'll be able to look back had have a giggle about all the things that have gone wrong along the way.

---

carpmart - 11/3/09 at 07:38 PM

Keep at it fella!

After all, it can't get any worse.......can it?

---

Doug68 - 12/3/09 at 04:15 AM

Just some thoughts...

What do you think is going on with the brakes?
From the thread, its the fronts that are losing power?
You say you think its vibes doing the damage, whys that? The rotors you have are solid, so they can't be knocking the pads back in, I assume that the calliper mounting is strong enough not to be flexing in use or over bumps?

One other thought is, your MC's are mounted on the floor with the pedals? Which is lower than the callipers? Maybe fluid is draining back from the callipers and pulling the pistons away? There's residual pressure valves sold to overcome this issue.

---

jabbahutt - 12/3/09 at 08:41 AM

try not to let it get you down. You've produced a stunning looking car which many people here are envious of (well I am!!)

The grin produced driving with plates and going wherever you feel like will compensate for the hassle you're experiencing now.

---

cloudy - 13/3/09 at 04:00 PM

Nice box arrived today from Rally Design

Some wilwood MC's this time, they look of better quality than the girling ones, and a remote reservoir. Will get it all fitted over the weekend...

One problem: The fluid sender is only a 2 wire type, my others are 3 wire types which let you wire the check light through it. Is this a problem for SVA?

James

---

otodb - 13/3/09 at 07:59 PM

Hi James,

My car uses a BMW MC & it has only two wires for low level & it passed SVA OK, it is wired in parallel with the test switch which is operated by the handbrake lever.

Hope you get the paper shufflers sorted soon.

All the best,

Brian.

[Edited on 15/3/09 by otodb]

---

greggors84 - 14/3/09 at 12:49 AM

You in the garage this weekend James? Im back down south and hoping to get the MK back on the road and insured tomorrow. Might pop up if your about. Its been a long time since ive seen your build.

---

cloudy - 14/3/09 at 12:59 AM

I'll be working on it tomorrow yup

Would be good to catch up

James

---

Scouse Monkey - 15/3/09 at 12:30 AM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
remote reservoir.

---

fingers crossed it sorts it.

what grade of fluid are you running?

[Edited on 15/3/09 by Scouse Monkey]

---

nitram38 - 15/3/09 at 06:43 AM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Nice box arrived today from Rally Design

Some wilwood MC's this time, they look of better quality than the girling ones, and a remote reservoir. Will get it all fitted over the weekend...

One problem: The fluid sender is only a 2 wire type, my others are 3 wire types which let you wire the check light through it. Is this a problem for SVA?

James

---

Regarding your check light, it doesn't matter wether 2 or 3 wire as long as you can test the check light.
You need an ignition feed to your light then the other light terminal light needs to loop from there to one terminal on the brake resevoir and then loop to a test switch or handbrake switch. The other resevoir terminal and handbrake or test switch are earthed. Basically you have two switches in parrallel.
Hope that it makes sense!

---

cloudy - 15/3/09 at 01:25 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by Scouse Monkey

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
remote reservoir.

---

fingers crossed it sorts it.

what grade of fluid are you running?

[Edited on 15/3/09 by Scouse Monkey]

---

I'm using DOT5.1

---

cloudy - 19/3/09 at 04:17 PM

Off goes another half inch thick bundle of paperwork to Borehamwood, this time with detailed drawings of my powertrain, showing where all the receipts apply

I really hope this fixes it, I believe the car is due a new reg! I hope you don't get lumped with this martin

James

---

cloudy - 20/3/09 at 12:02 PM

My frustration is now immense - they've yet again rejected the application.

I am now having to escalate...

---

Omni - 20/3/09 at 12:08 PM

OH NO! That is STUPID!

Have you called any of the the manufacturers to ask how they get it through? I have always found MAC1 etc... very helpful.

Regards,

O

---

cloudy - 20/3/09 at 12:20 PM

... oh and they want to reinspect the car!

---

nitram38 - 21/3/09 at 08:31 AM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Off goes another half inch thick bundle of paperwork to Borehamwood, this time with detailed drawings of my powertrain, showing where all the receipts apply

I really hope this fixes it, I believe the car is due a new reg! I hope you don't get lumped with this martin

James

---

I hope all goes well for you.
Last time the wimbledon vro visited me, they only wanted a reciept to prove the chassis steel was new and took my word for the rest of the details.
I'm hoping I get the same person!!!!

---

cloudy - 25/3/09 at 09:04 PM

Failed again, just on emissions and noise..


emissions I can fix fairly easily

Noise is a whole different ball park, its gone up 4db since I fitted the exhausts, no idea why...

I'm running out of ideas! I've bought stuff to deaden the panels and move the air intake...

James

---

stuleah - 26/3/09 at 07:02 PM

you could possibly try one of these
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1527/JETEX-UNIVERSAL-DECIBEL-INSERT-2%22/product_info.html.

---

Scouse Monkey - 27/3/09 at 06:52 PM

what about whacking on a set of OEM car exhausts for now?

The indirect path should be better than bike cans for noise.

---

cloudy - 27/3/09 at 06:55 PM

It already has some indirect path ones on there

James

---

dr-fastlane - 29/3/09 at 09:52 AM

What type of air filter are you using? The noise level was a big issue on my car to. Go for a normal car exhaust and don’t use a open air filter. Take one from a production car, the box and paper filter type of thing. Old Chrysler Voyagers v6 have nice small filter boxes. That did the trick for me and dropped the noise level with 5 dB(A).

---

cloudy - 29/3/09 at 10:13 AM

Already had!

Plan is:

Add deadening sheet to all rear panels
Add "firewall" at back of engine with more deadening sheet
Use hose to move air intake to front

Failing all that, ask If I can set my rev limiter to 9000 and be tested at 6750

---

cloudy - 30/3/09 at 07:12 PM

Wish me luck...

A tiewrap round the crankcase breather connection which seemed loose got it down to 800 a side, but only for about 30 seconds after the purge, I'm hoping the test can be taken before then..

after that it sits about 900-1000 and occasionally goes up to 1200

James

[Edited on 30/3/09 by cloudy]

---

jabbahutt - 31/3/09 at 07:01 AM

All the best James it deserves to pass

---

cloudy - 31/3/09 at 03:38 PM

And that's a pass!!! Noise was 101 and emissions was 1159 out of 1200HC - talk about close. Now I just need to argue with DVLA about a reg

---

airframefixer - 31/3/09 at 05:14 PM

Congrats on the pass. Good luck with the rest of the process.

Andrew

---

nitram38 - 31/3/09 at 05:25 PM

Wahooooooooo! Well desrved!

---

scudderfish - 31/3/09 at 05:59 PM

Fantastic!

---

Valtra - 31/3/09 at 08:11 PM

Fantastic well done ...let battle commence.

---

cloudy - 31/3/09 at 08:29 PM

The youtube action

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtdnsY4D7t8

---

locoR1 - 31/3/09 at 09:16 PM

Nice one James congratulations mate love the video brings a new meaning to drive it like you stole it and its not even registered yet

---

cloudy - 31/3/09 at 09:21 PM

I'm going to try and make the baldock meet on sunday dave, all depends on DVLA

Might see you there...

---

locoR1 - 31/3/09 at 09:27 PM

Going to tax mine tomorrow so will see how mine runs fri/sat
If your going ill do my best to get there. If you cant make it i probably wont bother this month so let me know.

---

cloudy - 31/3/09 at 09:28 PM

I'll drop you a txt/u2u

---

minitici - 1/4/09 at 12:15 PM

Well done! - but just watch it in the wet......

---

cloudy - 1/4/09 at 01:34 PM

DVLA are completely useless - Borehamwood (A huge office) has one lady dealing with all the applications - I was told she would call me back but was only in today, waiting for the call - I call again - they refuse to put me through but promise a call back. Gets to 2 so I decide to drive there in person (40mile round trip) get out of work on holiday, and they call me as I'm leaving to say she's gone home now so will call me tomorrow...

I don't understand how they are so hugely rubbish at basic simple tasks.

James

---

Xtreme Kermit - 1/4/09 at 07:14 PM

Top job James.

I hope you get sorted in Borehamstupid.

Hope to see you at the George IV on Sunday!

---

jabbahutt - 2/4/09 at 06:57 AM

Congratulations on a fantastic achievement, well deserved. Try not to let DVLA get to you too much, just enjoy the grin of getting hold of the MAC certificate.

Look forward to seeing the car in the flesh at one of the shows this year hopefully.

---

Chris_G - 2/4/09 at 08:06 AM

Congrats on getting this far!

To lighten your mood a little, a friend of mine started to have similar problems with the Bristol DVLA office. He decided to play at having learning difficulties and dyslexia and all of a sudden they couldn't do enough for him and had his paperwork sorted out for him in no time!

Now I must remember to tax mine today!

Chris

---

cloudy - 2/4/09 at 11:41 AM

DVLA just called me back after 4 callback requests to tell me they want to inspect the car AGAIN!

Needless to say I've started the formal complaint procedure.

James

---

woodsy144 - 2/4/09 at 10:55 PM

Great build!!

Quick question, I am very interested in finding out more about your headlamps, could you please provide me with some information,

How much? where did you get them from? brand? E marking?

Thanks for your help and look forward to hearing from you soon. Thanks

Tim

---

cloudy - 2/4/09 at 11:02 PM

Get in contact with Russbost of this forum, He'll be able to sort you out

---

woodsy144 - 2/4/09 at 11:43 PM

Thank you for your help, ill try and get in contact with him

Thanks again.

Tim

---

Steve Hignett - 4/4/09 at 10:32 PM

Fantastic achievement James.

Can't wait to see it at the show...

ATB
Steve

---

cheapracer - 5/4/09 at 09:11 AM

James,

If it gets too much contact your local Member to help. Your car is Internationally known (hell just point out this forum and how many views) is a symbol of one Englishman's skill and dedication blah, blah.... and is a disgrace on the English Public Service whats happening blah, blah...

May help.

---

cloudy - 9/4/09 at 09:14 AM

Another week has passed - The application was passed to DVLA swansea because borehamwood "couldn't decide"

I've called again today to find out why they've had it for a week at head office with no result, and it's been escalated in swansea!!

How on earth can it take almost 7 weeks now to decide whether it can have a new reg? It's hardly the end of the world if they get it wrong! Complete waste of time.

---

Omni - 9/4/09 at 09:26 AM

What a joke

James, you got anymore up to date pics???

Cheers,

O

---

cloudy - 15/4/09 at 11:30 AM

After calling them yet again, they tell me swansea said no (this is despite the inspector OK'ing my argument that the transmission should be classed as the chain drive in this instance)
Told me now they want to assign a fresh chassis number!!! This will be sent out later this week and then I have to have it stamped and signed off by a garage.

Needless to say I went completely off on one on the phone, didn't help but the lady at least agreed to send off the new chassis number today.

Oh and they've decided they want all the paperwork resubmitting because it now requires the other V55 form.

An absolute farce on every level. Martin I wish you the best of luck!

James

[Edited on 15/4/09 by cloudy]

---

nitram38 - 15/4/09 at 05:11 PM

Sorry to hear all of your problems James.
The reception I got last time I went down to the Wimbledon VRO has probably set the tone for what I can expect......much the same as you.
My sva is this Monday, so one step at a time.
I go with the expectation of a fail so that I won't be disappointed.
My aim was to get the car on the road for stoneleigh. You never know!

---

COREdevelopments - 15/4/09 at 06:31 PM

Tbh i had issues with swansea as i wanted to use my own chassis number. i really hope you get this sorted dont give up. they really do take the pisss. i really cant see how they can tell you to amend the chassis number when it has been through the sva . i was really hoping to your car at stoneliegh. And i bet you are too.
atb
Rob

---

perksy - 17/4/09 at 09:31 PM

Very Very Nice Work

Hope you don't mind i've linked this thread to the WSCC Boardroom so the Lads there can take a look









[Edited on 17/4/09 by perksy]

[Edited on 17/4/09 by perksy]

---

cloudy - 17/4/09 at 09:39 PM

Thanks no worries

I've finally had DVLA agree to process my paperwork, it will be a Q plate though, so a lot of wasted effort there!
Ah well, I'm sure the thrill of having it on the road will help me forget!

---

Valtra - 18/4/09 at 12:02 AM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Thanks no worries

I've finally had DVLA agree to process my paperwork, it will be a Q plate though, so a lot of wasted effort there!
Ah well, I'm sure the thrill of having it on the road will help me forget!

---

"Qs" rule . remember that a new reg is only new for 6 months max but Qs never age

Look forward to seeing your car at Stoneleigh just try to keepit boney side up untill then

---

cheapracer - 18/4/09 at 02:21 AM

Whats a Q plate for us out of town'ers?

---

Chris_G - 18/4/09 at 09:25 AM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cheapracer
Whats a Q plate for us out of town'ers?

---

Clicky....

---

cloudy - 18/4/09 at 11:01 AM

Just seen the thread over there, I think my diary should be read backwards as somebody has posted the tack welded chassis! every weld was ground out and remade when I was happy with the final design...

James

---

JC - 18/4/09 at 07:28 PM

Congratulations. Perhaps not the exact result that you wanted but fantastic news nonetheless. You can be proud of your car - I look forward to seeing it at Stoneleigh if you are there.

Well done!!!!!!

JC

---

:{THC}:YosamiteSam - 18/4/09 at 10:50 PM

some good work there - isnt it nice to see people having an idea and going for it without having someone saying - 'oooo cant do that' just do it.. enjoy it - keep it secure too!
i would watch how you position / design any body panels - may destroy the look.

also think about when your driving it - iv a westy megabusa - you have to use waterproof gear when driving it - but when you have all the warm gear on you will be suprised how much your driving position moves with the layers on.. feels different..

love it tho - keep the momentum.. your gf must love you..

---

cloudy - 20/4/09 at 11:50 AM

After the DVLA promised it would be done that day or the day after (last thursday) I took today off work as I was told monday latest. Also refused I collect the paperwork

Guess what? nothing in the post.

Called up and....


"Oh yes I haven't done that yet..." It will be with you in another couple of days.

These people have no sense of how they muck people around

Please don't use Borehamwood - use anywhere else, but not them.

[Edited on 20/4/09 by cloudy]

---

Valtra - 20/4/09 at 01:04 PM

don't want to rub salt in but you would have been better trippin up to Peterborough . vehicle inspector there seemed quite an enthusiast (showed me loads of photos on his phone ) and delt with mine quite quickly

It will all be worth it !!!!

---

cloudy - 20/4/09 at 02:05 PM

I really wish I had, i'd be on the road with an 09 plate by now...

---

COREdevelopments - 20/4/09 at 05:51 PM

That really is a shame James, but when you jump in and drive off it will all be forgotten. would look so cool being an 09 plate(sorry) so will you be attending stoneliegh? i settled for a Q as i just wanted it on the road that day. and i did as i went to cardiff not bloody swansea!!
hope to see you and the car at the show

Rob

---

cloudy - 21/4/09 at 06:35 PM

Nothing yet again, suspect it hasn't been processed, but I was cheered up that my GPS arrived!

Navigo v2 which is about £50 from ebuyer, and is capable of running all major GPS apps.

Only problem is where to put it! Without refabbing the dash the only place I could find, that you can
a) reach
b) see

is in the steering wheel center, it looks tidy with and without the gps clipped in and is nice and visible. Potentially not very good for seeing where your exit on the roundabout is!

Any comments/experiences/suggestions?

---

nitram38 - 21/4/09 at 07:04 PM

It needs to see the sky so I don't know how accurate it will be there . Can't you put it above your speedo?

---

cloudy - 21/4/09 at 08:00 PM

It wouldn't matter where I put it in R4, it "see's" the sky everywhere. Notice the strong lock whilst inside the garage with the door closed - not an issue...

---

nitram38 - 21/4/09 at 09:01 PM

I have a tomtom 940 and a set of scala Q2 headsets and I'm thinking of getting another sat nav.
The Q2 can only connect to tomtom rider via bluetooth and not other tomtom models.
The headset has an FM radio and the 940 transmits on FM, but tomtom decided to remove the navigation instructions via fm due to a new eu rule regarding transmission with no sound.
I've bought a cheap fm transmitter that I can plug in to the line out and it works, but it is just more wires and things to unplug.
I want a cheap fm transmitting sat nav for the Motaleira.
Does yours have fm?

[Edited on 21/4/2009 by nitram38]

---

cloudy - 21/4/09 at 11:14 PM

No, I chose the one without - I have no desire to have headphones in whilst driving, I find them distracting at the best of times!

James

---

cloudy - 22/4/09 at 07:01 PM

She's registered, plated, taxed and insured!

it's completely and utterly mental, cue vid

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wOk76YGc9c

---

Omni - 22/4/09 at 07:07 PM

AWESOME! Well done! You must be very proud indeed. We need an outside vid now? I wanna see it in ALL it's glory.

O

---

locoR1 - 22/4/09 at 07:31 PM

That's fantastic news James looking forward to seeing it at Stoneleigh do you know what day your going yet?

---

nitram38 - 22/4/09 at 07:35 PM

I'm still trying to get the noise down and fit stupid mesh grilles everywhere
Inspiring to see your video though, especially as the view is very similar to my car!

---

Chris_G - 22/4/09 at 07:37 PM

Nice one Cloudy!

Hope to see you/the car at Stonleigh too.

Chris

---

cloudy - 22/4/09 at 07:56 PM

I'll be the sunday with a few mates, and possibly camping to the monday

---

Valtra - 22/4/09 at 08:04 PM

Don't spose it will be difficult to find you we'll just look for a large crowd

---

cloudy - 24/4/09 at 09:04 PM

250miles on the clock!

Only three problems so far

1) the crappy plastic gps mount fractured under the vibrations
2) all the bulbs at the rear blew due to vibrations, now all replaced with LED models
3) After a drive, the left rear wheel bearing has a squeak when you push the car. It sounds very much like the oil seal, its a rubbery squeak not a graunching or metallic noise. Reckon it warrants stripping the bearings? (Don't relish the job as the sierra ones are a pain) There's no wheel rock and the hub isn't getting hot...

James

---

sgraber - 28/4/09 at 03:42 AM

Loved the vid! Is the car everything you imagined it would be and then more? I will assume the answer is yea!

Steve

---

cloudy - 28/4/09 at 06:41 AM

So far, it's doing everything I've asked of it - but has highlighted pretty early that I need to get it on a trackday pronto!

---

cheapracer - 29/4/09 at 10:20 AM

Vid? Theres a vid? Where dat at? (please!)

---

cloudy - 29/4/09 at 10:25 AM

Search youtube for Warner R4 I think that gets one of them, view other videos from for the rest

---

COREdevelopments - 29/4/09 at 07:18 PM

Nice one james. it looks ands sounds fantastic!! cant wait to see it at stoneliegh.
well done

Rob

---

cheapracer - 1/5/09 at 03:56 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Search youtube for Warner R4 I think that gets one of them, view other videos from for the rest

---

..which is great if your Country hasn't currently got Youtube banned.....

Thanks anyway ;-)

---

Valtra - 5/5/09 at 12:32 AM

did you make Stoneleigh ? (not checked the events tab yet)

---

cloudy - 5/5/09 at 08:30 AM

I did indeed

---

Valtra - 5/5/09 at 09:08 AM

Well done , so did I after 16 years of dreaming of rolling up at the gates great feeling isn't it

I didn't arrive untill 5pm on Sunday due to BBQ commitments on Saturday spoiling my hood / bootcover fitting schedule . most people had gone home by then and I spent the coldest night of my life in a Tesco value tent (with vital bits missing) listening to loud music and shivering .

Had a great time nontheless but missed your car hope to catch it some other time

---

adithorp - 5/5/09 at 09:44 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I did indeed

---

...and very nice it looked.

adrian

---

jabbahutt - 8/5/09 at 07:17 AM

any recent photos of the completely finished car? I've followed your build and it would be great to see some photos of the finished article plated up from different angles if you've got any.

Cheers

---

cloudy - 8/5/09 at 07:54 AM

I've been meaning to get a friend to take some on his DSLR, they are coming..

James

---

jabbahutt - 8/5/09 at 02:25 PM

Cheers looking forward to seeing them.

---

Omni - 8/5/09 at 06:49 PM

Just what I have been waiting for too

O

---

COREdevelopments - 20/5/09 at 03:23 PM

Hey James just checked your website out and it looks great. looks really proffesional.

Rob

---

cloudy - 20/5/09 at 04:01 PM

Thanks very much

For those asking for pics, loads of them and vids available at www.wr4.co.uk

---

Valtra - 20/5/09 at 04:09 PM

Very slick it is too (car and site)

---

cloudy - 2/6/09 at 11:55 AM

I've passed the magic 1000 mile mark

---

nitram38 - 2/6/09 at 05:14 PM

So where are you now? Majorca?

---

cloudy - 25/6/09 at 11:53 AM

I'm working on a PIC based circuit to generate an adjustable ignition kill when I shift up using the kliktronic, to allow for full throttle up shifts.

Also I've programmed in a semi automatic option to allow it to shift up itself. It'll fire the kliktronic and cut the ignition at a set rpm sensed from the tacho

Watch this space!

I should really fix the massive oil consumption first, but oh well!

[Edited on 25/6/09 by cloudy]

---

cheapracer - 25/6/09 at 01:49 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I'm working on a PIC based circuit to generate an adjustable ignition kill when I shift up using the kliktronic, to allow for full throttle up shifts.

Also I've programmed in a semi automatic option to allow it to shift up itself. It'll fire the kliktronic and cut the ignition at a set rpm sensed from the tacho

Watch this space!

I should really fix the massive oil consumption first, but oh well!

[Edited on 25/6/09 by cloudy]

---

Well when I was young..... in my bike racing days we just used brake light switches connected to the gearshift lever - when you changed up the brake light switch killed the ignition for that moment, worked a treat for about 5 bucks and a bit of time.

---

cloudy - 25/6/09 at 02:03 PM

It really needs to be adjustable to prolong the gearbox life and make for a smooth change... Total hardware cost is £9 so far...

James

---

cheapracer - 26/6/09 at 05:08 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
It really needs to be adjustable to prolong the gearbox life and make for a smooth change... Total hardware cost is £9 so far...

James

---

Well thats Locost!!

---

dave_vic_ozz - 7/7/09 at 02:51 PM

Cloudy, I cannot improve on your chassis design. You hit the nail on the head.

It is very good in beam and torsion.




[Edited on 10/7/09 by dave_vic_ozz]

---

Fred W B - 7/7/09 at 05:18 PM

Hi Dave

looks like some nice work you are doing, but you might get more (warmer?) response if you post up in a thread of your own?

Cheers

Fred W B

---

cloudy - 8/7/09 at 08:17 PM

Finished my shift controller, currently giving me adjustable ignition cut for flat shifting, and I've also designed in a tacho/shift light input and upshift output for auto upshifting which I'll wire in later

---

dave_vic_ozz - 10/7/09 at 08:44 AM

quote:

---

Originally posted by Fred W B
Hi Dave

looks like some nice work you are doing, but you might get more (warmer?) response if you post up in a thread of your own?

Cheers

Fred W B

---

Fred you make a good point.

It is a great chassis in both looks and strength. Awesome and inspiring.

---

cloudy - 13/7/09 at 11:54 AM

Have some R888's on the way, first trackday at barkston heath next sat Just need to be really wary of oil surge...

James

---

stuleah - 17/7/09 at 09:59 PM

cloudy your car is on page 22 of complete kit car and the write up says they are keen to learn more about it.

---

cloudy - 18/7/09 at 01:12 AM

Thanks for the heads up! I didn't know about that

---

geoffreyh - 19/7/09 at 11:37 AM

Hi,
First of all congratulations for everything.
It would be great if you could give some more information on your experience with the clicktronic. It looks like it worked quite well at your first track day.

Geoff

---

cloudy - 19/7/09 at 12:29 PM

I have a lot of problems getting 1st to 2nd at full throttle - it misses and gets neutral a lot but I suspect thats my old engine rather than the klicktronic - above that the cut is about 40ms and you dont feel the change

I was shifting 1st to 2nd with manual liftoff + clutch in case it missed hence the pants 0-60

James

---

geoffreyh - 19/7/09 at 02:02 PM

Is there a way to tweak the movement of the clicktronic or are you doing it manually?
maybe to space between 1 and 2 is a little different?

---

stuleah - 19/7/09 at 04:36 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Thanks for the heads up! I didn't know about that

---

No problem

---

matt_gsxr - 18/9/09 at 10:22 PM

So, Cloudy,

I hear that you have only gone and deserted the GSXR1100. Not many people running these engines and you go on and swap to the ubiquitous R1.

I must admit that I have fuel injected mine (carbs were getting too complicated and leaky for me, and tuning them up was a nightmare).

So, my question is. Was it worth it? and why no updates on this build diary?

Matt

---

cloudy - 18/9/09 at 11:36 PM

I'll have some new pics soon - but yes I've deserted the GSX-R, as it was forever the only source of problems in the car, Will miss the torque from the 1200 cc's but I'm looking forward to not having to stop for oil after each journey!

James

---

nitram38 - 19/9/09 at 10:46 AM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
I'll have some new pics soon - but yes I've deserted the GSX-R, as it was forever the only source of problems in the car, Will miss the torque from the 1200 cc's but I'm looking forward to not having to stop for oil after each journey!

James

---

You can say that again!

---

cloudy - 18/10/09 at 08:00 PM

R1 engine is running! should be back on the road next week pending fuel tank....

James
Rescued attachment running.jpg

---

nitram38 - 19/10/09 at 10:45 AM

Wow flames!
Nice one James. I'm looking forward to seeing the car on the road again!

---

scudderfish - 19/10/09 at 11:45 AM

Flames, an open fuel tank and an enclosed garage... What could possibly go wrong?

---

cloudy - 19/10/09 at 01:41 PM

I'd bank on it being safer than the car in motion

---

cloudy - 21/10/09 at 10:48 PM

mnn yes it seems to work 70mph in 1st anybody?

James

---

nitram38 - 21/10/09 at 10:51 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
mnn yes it seems to work 70mph in 1st anybody?

James

---

I know what that is like!

A1, Roundabouts, what roundabouts?

---

cloudy - 21/10/09 at 11:07 PM

won't spin the wheels on a rolling start till about 40mph, probably need to gear it down a little, will run a few 0-60's to see how badly it affects standing starts...

James

---

nitram38 - 21/10/09 at 11:29 PM

You need a power commander if its injection and get it remapped.
I need to rolling road mine

205/50/15's with a 51 tooth sprocket on mine

[Edited on 21/10/2009 by nitram38]

---

cloudy - 21/10/09 at 11:46 PM

What front?

James

---

cloudy - 22/10/09 at 10:29 PM

Not greatly impressed with the ratio, I either break the tyres loose off the line, and spin all the way to 70mph (see pic below :O)

Or if I pull away normally, it bogs down till about 20mph - returns a 0-60 of about 3.5 much slower than the 162hp gsxr at around the 3 mark (with a gearchange!)
Think i'll drop the gearing a tooth at the front, means a top speed of just 125 though - stupid r1 gearing
Rescued attachment DSC01242.JPG

---

nitram38 - 22/10/09 at 10:37 PM

Front cog from memory is 17 teeth.
Someone on here worked out the ratio for me based on the gears in the gearbox, so if you want perfection, I think the gear ratios need altering too.
A fuel remap will help

---

cloudy - 22/10/09 at 10:42 PM

17 is stock!! running through my calc gives

83 in 1st!

You will transform the perfomance by dropping that to a 13/14!

James

---

nitram38 - 22/10/09 at 10:44 PM

Question is, do you have one? and how many teeth does your sprocket have?
If you decrease teeth on one and increase teeth on the other don't u end up with the same output or have I missed something?
Why not change your larger sprocket instead?


[Edited on 22/10/2009 by nitram38]

---

cloudy - 22/10/09 at 10:46 PM

I may have a spare boxed 14P depends if they will take it back for a 13 or not...

52 is largest I can fit at the back...

James

[Edited on 22/10/09 by cloudy]

---

nitram38 - 22/10/09 at 10:51 PM

Some Gear calcs sent to me maybe they can help:

GearCalc v2.0.0.1 Copyright ©2001, Peter Ogden
Gear Ratio, Speed and RPM Calculator

Gear set: Manually entered values
Gear 1 2 3 4 5 6 Final
Ratios: 4.004 3.261 2.785 2.406 2.156 2.006 3.058

RPM Limit: 13750
RPM @Peak Power: 12000
Tyre Size: 195/50 x 15
Tyre Diameter: 577.00 mm
Tyre Circumference: 1812.70 mm


Gear Km/h per 1000 RPM Km/h @12000 RPM Km/h @13750 RPM
--------------------------------------------------------
1 8.88 107 122
2 10.91 131 150
3 12.77 153 176
4 14.78 177 203
5 16.50 198 227
6 17.73 213 244

Km/h RPM (in Gears)
----------------------------------------------------------
1 2 3 4 5 6
----------------------------------------------------------
10 1126 917 783 676 606 564
20 2252 1834 1566 1353 1212 1128
30 3377 2751 2349 2029 1819 1692
40 4503 3668 3132 2706 2425 2256
50 5629 4584 3915 3382 3031 2820
60 6755 5501 4698 4059 3637 3384
70 7880 6418 5481 4735 4243 3948
80 9006 7335 6264 5412 4850 4512
90 10132 8252 7047 6088 5456 5076
100 11258 9169 7830 6765 6062 5640
110 12384 10086 8613 7441 6668 6204
120 13509 11003 9397 8118 7274 6768
130 11919 10180 8794 7880 7332
140 12836 10963 9471 8487 7896
150 11746 10147 9093 8460
160 12529 10824 9699 9024
170 13312 11500 10305 9588
180 12177 10911 10152
190 12853 11518 10716
200 13530 12124 11280
210 12730 11844
220 13336 12408
230 12972
240 13536

Gear Change RPM drop (change @12000) RPM drop (change @13750)
-------------------------------------------------------------
1 -> 2 -2227 (to 9773) -2552 (to 11198)
2 -> 3 -1752 (to 10248) -2007 (to 11743)
3 -> 4 -1633 (to 10367) -1871 (to 11879)
4 -> 5 -1247 (to 10753) -1429 (to 12321)
5 -> 6 -835 (to 11165) -957 (to 12793)

GearCalc v2.0.0.1 Copyright ©2001, Peter Ogden
Gear Ratio, Speed and RPM Calculator

Gear set: Manually entered values
Gear 1 2 3 4 5 6 Final
Ratios: 4.004 3.261 2.785 2.406 2.156 2.006 3.375

RPM Limit: 13750
RPM @Peak Power: 12000
Tyre Size: unknown
Tyre Diameter: 540.00 mm
Tyre Circumference: 1696.46 mm


Gear Km/h per 1000 RPM Km/h @12000 RPM Km/h @13750 RPM
--------------------------------------------------------
1 7.53 90 104
2 9.25 111 127
3 10.83 130 149
4 12.54 150 172
5 13.99 168 192
6 15.03 180 207

Km/h RPM (in Gears)
----------------------------------------------------------
1 2 3 4 5 6
----------------------------------------------------------
10 1328 1081 923 798 715 665
20 2655 2163 1847 1596 1430 1330
30 3983 3244 2770 2393 2145 1995
40 5310 4325 3694 3191 2859 2661
50 6638 5406 4617 3989 3574 3326
60 7966 6488 5541 4787 4289 3991
70 9293 7569 6464 5584 5004 4656
80 10621 8650 7387 6382 5719 5321
90 11949 9731 8311 7180 6434 5986
100 13276 10813 9234 7978 7149 6651
110 11894 10158 8775 7864 7316
120 12975 11081 9573 8578 7982
130 12005 10371 9293 8647
140 12928 11169 10008 9312
150 11966 10723 9977
160 12764 11438 10642
170 13562 12153 11307
180 12868 11972
190 13583 12638
200 13303

Gear Change RPM drop (change @12000) RPM drop (change @13750)
-------------------------------------------------------------
1 -> 2 -2227 (to 9773) -2552 (to 11198)
2 -> 3 -1752 (to 10248) -2007 (to 11743)
3 -> 4 -1633 (to 10367) -1871 (to 11879)
4 -> 5 -1247 (to 10753) -1429 (to 12321)
5 -> 6 -835 (to 11165) -957 (to 12793)

---

cloudy - 22/10/09 at 10:54 PM

Thanks - it's ok I have a calculator I designed...

James

---

cloudy - 22/1/10 at 06:20 PM

Winter mods have been a bit lax - I did get her out in the snow though

Another good run out today, after the addition of ducted intakes - the noise was just unbearable and meant wearing earplugs for all journeys even under the helmet! Panel filter replaced for K&N too, will need a powercommand and mapping at some point...

Still need to tidy up the R1 loom

---

cloudy - 22/1/10 at 06:24 PM

Gear ratio dropped too - now a 4:1 reduction to the rear axle - about 63mph in 1st gear...

---

aitch - 22/1/10 at 07:03 PM

why so noisey ???

aitch

---

cloudy - 22/1/10 at 08:45 PM

Intake is 3 inches from your left ear....

---

nitram38 - 22/1/10 at 10:23 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by cloudy
Gear ratio dropped too - now a 4:1 reduction to the rear axle - about 63mph in 1st gear...

---

James, What cogs (number of teeth) and what tyres are you running?
Is the car better to drive?
I'm interested in any mods, plus I need to have my power commander re-mapped.
Cheers Martin

[Edited on 22/1/2010 by nitram38]

---

cloudy - 22/1/10 at 10:41 PM

52 to a 13 tooth front (hard to get hold of...). Yes much better on normal pull offs - would bog down unless you broke traction before

---

cloudy - 22/1/10 at 11:20 PM

Tyres are 205/50/15

---

pocket rocket - 23/1/10 at 10:18 AM

hey mate,

car is looking amazing! will you be taking the car to the shows this year?
im really keen to get a close look at it and get your opinion on a few things.
what year is your R1 engine? is it the 09/10 engine with the cross plane crank?

---

cloudy - 23/1/10 at 11:21 AM

I wish! Barely could afford this one (05 5VY)

Will be at as many shows as I can this year

James

---

nitram38 - 23/1/10 at 06:01 PM

My next question is does anyone have a 13 tooth cog going spare?

---

pocket rocket - 23/1/10 at 06:55 PM

i have a friend who works for yamaha, they always have loads of stuff kicking about the work shop (which is where i got my R1 exhaust from) so i will ask him.
same for you cloudy, if you have any worries with the engine or need any parts i should be able to get them at cost :-)
just drop me a pm

---

cloudy - 24/1/10 at 05:20 PM

Thanks, much appreciated

---

franky - 24/1/10 at 05:51 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by pocket rocket
hey mate,

car is looking amazing! will you be taking the car to the shows this year?
im really keen to get a close look at it and get your opinion on a few things.
what year is your R1 engine? is it the 09/10 engine with the cross plane crank?

---

You wouldn't want one of the new R1 engines as they make about 15bhp less than the rest of the big 4, and less bhp than the version with the normal crank.

---

nitram38 - 26/1/10 at 10:56 AM

pocket rocket, I have sent you a u2u regarding a 13 tooth cog
Cheers Martin

---

cloudy - 26/1/10 at 11:03 AM

If not martin try B&C express, they don't stock it, but were able to eventually get one from renthal on special...

James

---

nitram38 - 26/1/10 at 01:28 PM

B&C say the smallest is 14 tooth. Is that right James?

---

cloudy - 26/1/10 at 01:52 PM

No, that's what they told me too! It's renthal Part No:309--530-13P

---

nitram38 - 26/1/10 at 02:08 PM

Cheers for the part number!

---

pocket rocket - 26/1/10 at 07:57 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by franky

quote:

---

Originally posted by pocket rocket
hey mate,

car is looking amazing! will you be taking the car to the shows this year?
im really keen to get a close look at it and get your opinion on a few things.
what year is your R1 engine? is it the 09/10 engine with the cross plane crank?

---

You wouldn't want one of the new R1 engines as they make about 15bhp less than the rest of the big 4, and less bhp than the version with the normal crank.

---

this is true but the engine wasn't designed to have more bhp, its been designed to have more low and mid range torque and a flatter torque curve with no or little torque inertia.

---

nitram38 - 26/1/10 at 09:25 PM

B & C Express are being alkward about getting the part even though you have bought one James!
Here is an excerpt from the latest email:

"I cannot give you a price for a part that we do not list and never have.
If you give me your friends postcode, I will be able to look on his customer screen to see what he has ordered."

Its always what you want that is difficult to buy, why is that?
They have plenty of the stuff I don't !!!!!

---

cloudy - 27/1/10 at 12:25 AM

See U2U

---

minitici - 27/1/10 at 09:14 AM

The 309--530-13P is certainly listed as an alternative for the YZF-R1 on the Renthal "Fit your Bike" website.

---

nitram38 - 27/1/10 at 11:15 AM

I've got 2 ordered (one spare) from Renthal via B & C Express.
Apparently Renthal only have 16 left and once they are gone, they are gone.

Thanks James!

---

nitram38 - 29/1/10 at 12:00 PM

I'm absolutely amazed.
B & C quoted 4 weeks delivery on my sprockets.
They have arrived today, 2 days after ordering!

---

cloudy - 29/1/10 at 12:06 PM

They are pretty good Did a great job on my custom rear sprocket too...

---

nitram38 - 27/2/10 at 10:34 AM

James thanks for the info about changing my sprocket to a 13T.
I only took the MotaLeira out around the streets where I live because of the weather, but the transformation in getting the power down in a more useable way is amazing!
I don't have to rev it high to pull away
Thanks again!

Martin

My set up now:

205/50/15 Toyo T1R tyres
52 tooth rear sprocket
13 tooth front drive sprocket

---

cheapracer - 27/2/10 at 04:38 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by franky
[

You wouldn't want one of the new R1 engines as they make about 15bhp less than the rest of the big 4, and less bhp than the version with the normal crank.

---

You should ride one of those 'gutless' Ducati 999's one day with 40 hp less then you might understand.

---

cloudy - 13/5/10 at 08:37 AM

Ian from Complete Kit Car took some photo's of the car yesterday at a local lime kiln, look out for it in the June and July issues
Rescued attachment P1000329small.jpg

---

welderman - 13/5/10 at 10:24 AM

nice

---

stuleah - 13/5/10 at 06:13 PM

cool will look out for it, at the same time Adam from complete kit car was taking photos of mine down a local lane, should also be in the same issue so look out for that aswell.

---

cloudy - 13/5/10 at 06:41 PM

Ah good stuff, it was probably somewhat less dusty! I assume it'll be the july one - as the article they wrote for the June issue was completed a few weeks ago...

James

---

stuleah - 13/5/10 at 06:53 PM

hope the weather was better when he took the photos, we were waiting upto 30mins between cloud breaks to get a photo in the sun. typical british weather

---

Valtra - 13/5/10 at 10:45 PM

quote:

---

Originally posted by stuleah
cool will look out for it, at the same time Adam from complete kit car was taking photos of mine down a local lane, should also be in the same issue so look out for that aswell.

---

had a gander at your build photos stuleah, frame looks monumentaly strong. looking forward to paying you a visit over the summer (we spoke at Stoneleigh) when you get settled in, good luck.
Looking mean cloudy

---

stuleah - 22/5/10 at 02:20 PM

see youve got a pic on the front cover..
http://www.completekitcar.co.uk/Issue/latestissue.html

---

expatkiwi - 4/7/10 at 09:07 PM

Hi James
I had a good look round your car today at the autosolo. I was hoping to have a chat about it but family stuff meant that I had to dissapear just after lunch.
You have done a top job and I am now wondering if i should get the westfeild sold and go bec
Cheers
Brian (FDMC member)

---

cloudy - 7/7/10 at 01:28 PM

Thanks Brian, a BEC is quite a different animal, both in positive and negative ways - just make sure it suits...

vid from barkston on sat:
Youtube

---

loggyboy - 20/7/10 at 12:42 PM

Great to see it in the flesh the other weekend.

Bro took some video and caught you but only stationary.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8SM2Xz_5R8

[Edited on 20/7/10 by loggyboy]

---

cloudy - 29/11/10 at 08:01 PM

Just back from my first track day - brands

Little bit of video: (forgot to take telemetry!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAbeFhT07s4





[Edited on 29/11/10 by cloudy]

---

Fred W B - 30/11/10 at 08:16 AM

Looks great!

Have you got the rear wheels standing straight up at rest? Maybe a little rear camber would be beneficial?

Cheers

Fred W b

[Edited on 30/11/10 by Fred W B]

---

mrxmn - 4/1/11 at 02:59 PM

James that looks awesome on the track though maybe not the best time of year. At least it was dry. Would be wicked to do a track day in the summer with the r4 and the MK Indy. Maybe rockingham?

Mark (SJ's brother)

---

cloudy - 4/1/11 at 04:48 PM

You are on

---

Dick Bear - 23/1/11 at 06:14 PM

Cloudy.......

I've been absent from the site for a while but viewing your completed build was one of the first things I wanted to do upon my return.

FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!

Dick Bear

---

cloudy - 24/1/11 at 09:36 AM

Good to see you back! Liking the new track car

Weather almost good enough to start taking the R4 to work again, can't wait - poor things only been out a few times since last summer!

James

---

nuvolae36 - 24/1/11 at 09:00 PM

hi, I don't post here often so please excuse me if you already answered this question. I want first to make you huge compliments for the car.

Now questions:
I see it's bec and mid engine and I see how much is "tail happy" on corners, so I see it's very demanding when driving fast...

Have you got a chance to "race" against other fast becs in same tracks? I'm asking because I want to know if all the involvement needed to drive this car fast really pays in laptime or if a fury same engine 470kg would nearly as fast as that for a mid experience driver.

How is weight distribution?


I'll build a BEC and I'm struggling between something MID or a Fury Fisher (front engine, RWD).

cheers,
Roberto.

---

cloudy - 16/3/11 at 11:25 PM

It is significantly faster than similarly powered cars on the sprints i've taken it to, and i'm not the best driver in the world! So yes, the mid engine'd layout seems to pay off when going balls out...

Weight distributon is about 65/35, which works better than you'd think - the front is extremely 'pointy'

Depends what you are after really, on the road you'll go just as quickly with a "normal" layout...

---

cloudy - 16/3/11 at 11:40 PM

Just thought i'd post some pictures of my new improved v2 homemade electronic gear shift controller TM!

The old one only supported upshifts, with a single cut duration set by a variable resistor - this has several drawbacks!


Features:


Downshift Blip Control
Safety lockout if a downshift would over-rev engine
Secondary upshift cut duration for cruising (activated when engine below a configrable rpm)
Digital adjustment of durations in 5ms steps
Blip lockout at idle rpm (stops the reving at the lights when block shifting to neutral)
Semi automatic mode - automatically shift up at certain rpm
Pushbutton programming via LCD

Maybe went a little overboard with the code (~500lines!) but I think it covers everything and more the commercial flatshifter/trickshifter type things support


Just hope it works as well on the track as I hope!





[Edited on 17/3/11 by cloudy]

---

matt_gsxr - 24/9/11 at 08:23 AM

James,

Why no updates? I know you are putting in a new engine. Go on, share the story.

Matt

---

cloudy - 24/9/11 at 09:58 AM

The turbo engine isn't for this car - I've started building something else I've come up with I'll be making that one available for sale as a turnkey car next year hopefully!

[Edited on 24/9/11 by cloudy]

---

matt_gsxr - 27/9/11 at 10:56 AM

awesome news

---

cloudy - 12/4/12 at 07:46 AM

On the road for 3 years now! Had it's first MOT last week (passed ) Seems like yesterday I was driving it home from it's SVA...

J

---

Mike_82 - 14/10/12 at 04:43 PM

Hi - been foloowing this thread for a while and was just wondering if there were any updates? you mentioned before you were looking to do a kit for others to build - is there any developements there?

Great car by the way!

---