Sorry about the vague question chaps.
What would be a realistic power output figure for the 1300 xflow within the Locost regulations and how do I achieve it to stay with the backmarkers?
Does anyone have a ball park figure of any engine work costs?
Is any of the work within my skill set or is it all going to be down to the specialists?
It would be nice if the series wasn't money orientated and the playing field was totally level, I realise even at this level it won't be the case.
I'd love to compete but don't fancy being 15 seconds a lap down (not because of my lack of driving skill you understand).
Where do I start?
Tks in advance from a Newbie Race Wannabe

Depends on the rolling road/dyno you use, but I believe that around 85 BHP is tops.
Bore out to +90 thou as per rules or you'll be at the back.
New engine from Randall is less than £2000. Refresh this winter will probably be less than £400 parts, and labour is free (mate). He can do it all himself, but even without that most can be done by unskilled. You will need to pay for things like balancing which needs machines.
Dickie

I've done 2 seasons now and i've developed the opinion that there are effectively two leagues in the 750MC championship: those with home-built engines and those with professionally built engines.

There are definitely some exceptions to this but i've decided that i've got to try the 'pro' route since dyno testing (same dyno for both engines) has shown my own effort to be substantially less pokey (14%) than one that was originally a Randall build but had been refreshed with new piston rings.

I'm not going to kid myself that a few more bhp will dramatically change my fortunes, except financially, but it has got to be a move in the right direction.

The standards in Locost racing have increased significantly since it began and the laptimes of the grid are all closing up. Just looking through the 750MC archives shows you that times that would have got you a top ten slot 2 years ago are now only good enough for maybe 20th place, if that!

This is why i would recommend going for the 'pro' option so that at least you have (some) peace of mind that power is not so much of a factor on your overall performance. A slight drawback is that the "i need more power" excuse doesn't carry much weight anymore and so you'd need to find something else to blame. I'm already rehearsing the old "the tyres pressures were wrong" one. ;-)

Cheers

Rob

Rob,

are you going to Brian Randall for your 'upgrade' or have you found someone a bit more local?

Cheers,

Mark

I'm taking a bit of a risk and not going for a Randall engine, despite their supremacy in recent times, but instead it's being built by my mate's dad.

He's just retired after working for Ford for 30 years and has built race engines for himself and his son for the last 10 or so. Now he's retired he's kind of 'expanding' his hobby into a business. He's not an establisjed name but everything i've seen so far leads me to believe he's very, very good.

It's going to work out cheaper than a Randall, though not by as much as i might have hoped. Seems there's a lot of effort that has to go in to get every fraction of a horsepower, seeing as there isn't much you can actually change. It's about getting all the small details just right, apparently.

Fingers crossed!

Rob
You sailed past me down the back straight at Mallory - you don't need a quicker engine!
Dickie

But wasn't that the race where you were complaining that your engine was sick? Certainly you were 10-15 places further down the grid than you normally are.

Plus - you slowed down too much for Gerards

My first season was completed on an engine, gbox & rear axle taken straight out of the MK2 escort & plonked into my Locost. The axle received a coat of paint (& brackets of course), the gearbox received a clean & oil change and the Engine received an oil change, new oil & water pumps. And that was the poor thing's 76000 mile re-build!! That lasted me all season during 2003.

Granted - I was consistently towards the back of the pack, but there's always someone to have a bit of a tussle with & it's usually a bit more polite at the back, so you can learn your trade a little easier.

Dont feel you need to be forking out a fortune for your first season. IMHO, you're better off starting low down the grid & working your way up.

Best of luck to you,

Dave Black(ie)

Well said Dave










(More people should start at the back rather than overtake me!!!!!!! )

Thanks everyone, I'll forget the cheque to Burtonpower for now, I think.
I know my chassis in current state is unacceptable for the series - it's got Sierra hubs, with wishbones to suit. I'm a bit stuck as to either modify my current chassis to accept Cortina hubs or buy a new chassis that's ready to rock.
I know the pro chassis route would be the way to go, but I don't want to sacrifice all the work I've already done.
The car was going to be a maniac 1600 with big engine mods and 40s but I suppose I can sell all the trick parts and recoupe some of the money back towards the chassis and cortina hubs.
Who's the best quality / price chassis & roll cage supplier? How much are we talking?
Sorry for turning 1 question in 5!

Most places these days supply a kit with built in cage.
Suggest you try:
Stuart Taylor
Procomp
Luego
Rob Johnston

The 1st 3 all have their own websites, teh last one has posted on this forum somewhere. I will not post on quality or price since I have not tried them all (yet!) Suffice to say, all will be fine, and all offer prices some bits of which will be higher than others, some bits cheaper.