I know very little about the internals of engines, but feel I ought to do something to the poor thing over the winter! Clearly an oil and filter change would help, as well as the HT leads.

What else should I do or consider?

Thanks
Dickie B

Hi Dickie,

My advice would be to do very little, unless you have a specific issue with the engine (lack of power ((er does anyone have enough power )), or a dodgey rattle, etc.)

In order of priority i would say:
1. Oil + Filter Change
2. Check Plugs (gap + Colour) replace if nesc.
3. Check electrics
4. Do a leakdown test to check you have good piston ring seal. I personally don't believe in compression checkers - the only thing they tell you is if you have a hole in your pistons....
5. Remove head and check for bore scoring etc. (drain coolant first),
6. take the valves out, clean any carbon deposits off, and re-lap them.

1,2,3, and 4 are nesc. 5 and 6 are optional!

I don't think the bottom end will benifit from a strip down unless you have a specific issue with it.

Don't forget we're all gonna need these serial number'd cams before next season, so no point rebuilding engine until you have one.

Engine building sounds tricky, but is actually quite easy. Just make sure you number all the parts you take off, so you can put them back in the correct place (eg valve 1 goes back in valvehole 1) and take particular care when you re-torque the head. I number the head bolts too.

For a full job your gonna need a torque wrench, socket set, valve spring compressor, valve laping tool, course and fine grinding paste, a stanley knife blade (for cleaning gasket faces), and some good quality engine assy grease (not just any old grease), and the haynes manual for tightening sequences etc.

Giz a call / email if you get stuck...

Des

Cheers Des

I don't even understand 4, 5 and 6, and as for 3, what electrics?

I already have a Kent P103/4 so am rather annoyed at having to replace it or at best remove it and get it stamped. Especially since this will not stop cheating or the need for lift measurements etc.

Luckily engine is out anyway - as I had to have a new front chassis after my Uri Gellar chassis work at Mallory!!!!

Dickie

Bought car for 2004 - removed cam - all stamped up as standard cam... what do I do next ?

Steve

Steve
Get Kent Cams to stamp it (where mechanical fuel pump blanking plate is) as per my email to you yesterday!
Dickie

Hey Dickie - where did you get your new front end from? Did you go to Ian Gray?

You see i've got some unbending to do too, unfortunately, but i thought i'd better get it done while my engine's out ready for it's shiny new stamped cam!

Rob
I went to Procomp in the end - Birmingham is easier for me to get to, and I knew Ivan and Matt through a friend. It would have been cheaper to buy a new chassis, but I knew I wouldn't have the time to strip the whole car down and rebuild it. As it is I will be pushed to do it anyway. Still, my cam is at Kent, and my shock absorbers are being rebuilt (snapped the main shaft when I hit the barrier).
Dickie
PS must get off the internet, supposed to be revising for Friday's exam!

It may have cost more than you thought Dickie, but rest assured the front half of your chassis is the best in the business!!! It's the old "you get what you pay for" thing again.

AND no doubt your new front end had to be adapted to take your previous bits & bobs right?



DB

[Edited on 18/12/03 by blackie]

After talking to Ian Gray it looks like i'd be better off buying a new chassis anyway. The price isn't that much different plus i could take delivery much, much sooner than he could get around to fixing the current one.

Am unsure now whether to go for the quick & dirty option of replacing the bare minimum or biting the bullet & rebuilding the whole bloody car.

Maybe i'll pay a visit to the Brummies. I'm only half an hour away and at least i know my way around there whereas i get lost every time i go to Nottingham!

Have a Merry Christmas everybody!

Blackie - agreed - they have done a brilliant job, and tided up a few other things very well as well.

Rob - it's all down to time more than money I believe. If you can go for a full rebuild then do - apparently it can be done in 3 days (Tim Gray in 2002)

Good luck! I start my rebuild this week!