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locking off brake bias bar
tcr - 6/7/12 at 09:33 AM

just been reading this and was wondering how you have done it ? ...........pics would be helpful

Note 5: Bias bars and other mechanical adjusting devices fitted to twin master cylinders must be rendered inoperable by mechanical means

loggyboy - 6/7/12 at 11:31 AM

Google image search revealed these 2 options:



tcr - 6/7/12 at 11:39 AM

thanks

fluidslvr - 6/7/12 at 05:34 PM

nylocs with locking wire..

tcr - 9/7/12 at 09:53 AM

have you got the lock wire wrapped around something else like on the 2nd pic ?

loggyboy - 9/7/12 at 10:04 AM

quote:
Originally posted by tcr
have you got the lock wire wrapped around something else like on the 2nd pic ?


Effectively it being through the nut is the 'something else'

Lightning - 9/7/12 at 10:13 AM

i welded a bit of studding to a nut and screwed the nut onto the end of the bias bar. Did this both ends. It looked like the nuts were welded to the bar. They accidently unscrewed and fell off after the test.

BobM - 9/7/12 at 10:20 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Lightning
i welded a bit of studding to a nut and screwed the nut onto the end of the bias bar. Did this both ends. It looked like the nuts were welded to the bar. They accidently unscrewed and fell off after the test.



... but just hope the tester doesn't have a spanner to test it

tcr - 9/7/12 at 10:22 AM

ha ha there's a possibility that might happen to mine too

eddie99 - 9/7/12 at 10:51 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Lightning
i welded a bit of studding to a nut and screwed the nut onto the end of the bias bar. Did this both ends. It looked like the nuts were welded to the bar. They accidently unscrewed and fell off after the test.


Neat

blakep82 - 9/7/12 at 10:52 AM

interesting ideas!
i like the one with the wire rope thing looped round. might use that one myself. problem with my nbias bar is there's no access to it once its in for drilling the nuts, or welding,
2 holes drilled in the ends of the bar, wire rope through, and looped around the pedal (checking it won't catch anything) might be the best way for me! it will allow movement, but less that a quarter turn really.

screwing studding on the end, erm, clever, but dangerous if you get caught! lol


this one is the one i like


here's a question though, what is it they're actually checking it for? is it to stop people adjusting it and doing it wrong? in which case any locking efforts can be undone easily
or to stop the bar screwing itself in and out under vibration? in which case, surely 2 nyloc nuts would do? or some sort of split pins or something

[Edited on 9/7/12 by blakep82]

adithorp - 9/7/12 at 12:12 PM

As I understand it, the locking doesn't have to be perminent anymore (had to be welded when IVA first introduced). Now just has to prevent it moving accidentaly and have the correctly worded sticker to say not to adjust.

tcr - 9/7/12 at 07:10 PM

who sells the warning decal?

JekRankin - 9/7/12 at 07:12 PM

Would a nyloc nut at either end do the trick? They'd be nigh on impossible to remove without tools.

[Edited on 9/7/12 by JekRankin]

loggyboy - 9/7/12 at 10:55 PM

quote:
Originally posted by JekRankin
Would a nyloc nut at either end do the trick? They'd be nigh on impossible to remove without tools.

[Edited on 9/7/12 by JekRankin]


No, the intention is to stop people from adjusting them, not to stop them from coming 'loose'.

blakep82 - 9/7/12 at 11:42 PM

quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
quote:
Originally posted by JekRankin
Would a nyloc nut at either end do the trick? They'd be nigh on impossible to remove without tools.

[Edited on 9/7/12 by JekRankin]


No, the intention is to stop people from adjusting them, not to stop them from coming 'loose'.


thats the thing that confuses me though, because anyone capable of building a car, and using some method of locking the bias bar, surely is capable of removing that and adjusting it in a few minutes?

i'd have thought that nylocs are as hard (if not harder) to remove as lock wire, only nylocs are easier to fit!

the wire rope one is probably still the one i'd got for, but how do you join the ends together suitably? didn't see anything to show how they'd done it (or even if it passed IVA!)

loggyboy - 10/7/12 at 06:53 AM

yes, it is a bit of a strange rule, but i believe they intend it to discourage adjustment, more for possible future owners. they know people are going to remove them, otherwise they would have kept the welding rule. I suspect its a lot of back covering and box ticking.

JekRankin - 10/7/12 at 08:19 AM

In the end I decided to drill and roll pin mine because that seems to be the accepted solution for IVA. I still think the use of Nylocs might be better in some respects, because it still prevents anyone from casually adjusting it without tools, but doesn't require holes to be drilled in the bias bar.

BobM - 11/7/12 at 09:24 AM

I spoke to the IVA tester before tackling my bias bar. He was of the view that he expected to see locknuts with roll pins plus a warning label. So that's what I did and he was happy.