OK, so showing that its been a long time since my apprenticeship and I had a spanner in my hands.. How have people fitted their diff?

Instruction states 2 m12 x 60 cap head bolts - if fitted like the bolt on the left (as I assume is correct), I cant get the locknut in the casing recess - do I simply fettle the casing? Or is the fitment on the right correct? In either event I cannot get a standard washer in there....


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Secondly, the bottom is supposed to be a threaded bar M12 x 220 - I cant get this in as the chassis prevents the bar going in parallel (above or below note I have removed the lower wishbone, this doesnt really interfere) - again is this just a brute force job???


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Cheers!

[Edited on 12/1/12 by Poorscousertommy]

yup brute force them in - thats what i did anyway

I think you will find that the top fixing should be a through bolt about eight inches or so long, at least thats how all the ones I have seen have been fitted, (including mine). HTH Ray

Right hand fitting is fine, for the bit of studding I ground a champher on the end so it pushed through the end hole easily.

Regards Mark

As Mark says, long time since but if I recall bottom one 1st gives a bit of juggling movement on diff, top one as right (head on the inside) bit of a B to get an allen key on but far easier than using the original bolt.

tony

The other option is to Helicoil the diff - its what MNR do/did.

Ground the head on the alan bolt down on mine, not a huge amount of material to remove..

I used two m12 bolts on the bottom

[Edited on 13/1/12 by pauladamss]

My diff upper bolts in as per the right hand option, length of stud through the bottom with washers and nylocs each end.

Rich

Thanks folks, just thought the RH method looked sloppy, certainly doesnt justify a 60mm bolt!! Right.. Back to the batcave